jonnyc21

This is my own opinion/speculation based on what I have experienced and see... so take it with a grain of sand Based on the way my Montesa’s clutch responds to other oils I have used and in comparison to what advanced riders like in a clutch I think the ELF is likely to be used because it actually works... or at least more often then not. The other factor to say it isn’t just business from my mind is that they have recommended the ELF from the beginning, even my friends 05 4RT and my 07 as well as my 2017 300RR all recommend the ELF oil. I just don’t see that many years of using the same oil really bing just business if it wasn’t good. People would have complained and they would have changed it at some point. though I don’t doubt there is more to it than just that... as business relationships are always a part of it.

The only time I had a problem like Brucey indicated "Selecting gears becomes difficult once the bike is hot and neutral is pretty much impossible to find at any time with the engine running" was when I needed to bleed and re-adjust the levers on my 4RT. Best I could tell was that the heat on the slave with the dirty fluid was causing it to not work correctly. My best guess is because of the age and hygroscopic aspect of the fluid had collected to much water/dirt and was causing issues. Fixed with adjustment and a double flush of the system. I can't say that is the cause here but was in my case. At least it sure sounds like something in the slave and/or the master to me... Best of luck.

https://www.handdracing.co.uk/product-page/h-d-billet-rear-brake-pedal

A second note: If you picked up the Happy Trails holder over the Wolfman it is rather thin aluminum so if it takes a hit it will likely bend or if you are running it without the bottle it is a bit of a knife, hence why I indicated even with the bottle empty we don't run it without the bottle. To help with strength, when you get it and size up what kind of plate you want to use to mount it you might want to cut two of them and use the second as a backing for the holder. Also a small bit of rubber between the plates to prevent scratching of the down-tube is a good idea. Good luck.

Bottle holder: https://www.happy-trail.com/happy-trails-container-holder.html It can hold up to a 1.5L bottle - https://www.happy-trail.com/primus-fuel-bottle-1-5-l-p-737929.html I also used this holder: https://wolfmanluggage.com/collections/fluid-systems/products/wolf-bottle-holster It can do typical 1L bottles. Mounting of the Happy Trails holder is done with a flat plate of aluminium that I cut to size and drilled matching hols in and then bolted to the side rail with some hex bolts I cut to fit so they don't hit anything like fan shroud wires etc. I also run the Wolfman Enduro Pocket and really like it for having a few extra things handy that I don't have to pack on my back. https://wolfmanluggage.com/collections/enduro-bags/products/enduro-pocket

Sorry for the delayed response, been busy so haven’t been online much for a bit. I will get some close up pictures and information on what we use for fuel later today.

Fuel bottle. We trail ride from time to time so we want some extra range. Its empty when we ride trials but the mount sicks out a bit so its safer to have the bottle there in the event of a crash.

@jerv888 One more thing. If it has been this way from the beginning you might want to order up some jets and re-jet at the same time as my daughters Beta 80 runs so much better now that its jetted.

I know someone with I think a 2014 (might have been a 2015) with some issues with running correctly caused by manufacturing debris in the fuel tank getting into the carburetor. If you don't already have one I might put a fuel filter on it and check/clean out the carburetor as a first step. Good luck.

My wife started on a 500 street bike in a parking lot, then went to a single 650 single for a number of years. Then to a dual sport 230 and now trials. When we went to trials she started on a 125 Gas Gas and it was great. If I was going to start it all over again I would have gone in the reverse direction starting on the 125, then the 230, and end with the 650. As such my vote, go for the 125. However, if she is petite or timid a Beta 80 as suggested above is a good option as well. Some video of the wife on her 125. Wheelie practice: First time on the tire:

As above the fan comes on more on both my 4RT and my 300RR than a standard 2T like my wife's Gas Gas, however I have found that "engine ice" coolant is another option to keep the fan on less. When I switched to that on my 4RT before I got my 300 I found it made a big difference on how often it comes on. I did the same on my 300 and it has improved it as well. Though I am not sure if engine ice is available in the UK but worth consideration. Just another option.

There is two positions for the hex bolt, if you roll the snail cam back all the way you should see a second position to place it. You then should be able to adjust it again.

I think as above it may or may not be easy depending on conditions to tell so not a big deal if you don't notice it. I will add that in my experience the more I ride a bike the better I get at telling the difference in little things like adjustment of lever position, map switch setting, bar position, etc. so at some point when your riding you may begin to notice the difference in the setting, or maybe not.

On my 2017 300RR I can actually feel a difference even at the low end as well as the top, though very subtle. And yes if I ride it even for a little bit in one setting or the other it isn't as noticeable as going back and forth several times quickly to compare the difference and I would also account that for the brain compensating.

Did you add the switch or did it come with it? According to what I understand only some of the throttle bodies can take advantage of the switch. So if you added the switch you might have a version that dose not supports it? I can say that on my Montesa 300RR the switch makes a noticeable change but I am not sure I can compare that to a 260 with a switch. Also, the largest difference would be on an after market programmable unit where you pick the two maps yourself.

On the black tube... easy to tell just pull back the edge of the grip and see if its white or black, if white (Fast tube) you can change it to the black if the bike feels to quick on the throttle response. And there is no need to get a new cable you can use your current one without issue. On the low compression head, my assumption was going to an S3 head however I didn't look into what options you have for your year/model of Beta.

Best low cost option to help with ride ability is to use a black or slow throttle tube if it doesn’t already have one on it. Other options to consider would be add a fly wheel weight, gear it down a bit, or use a low compression head. Good luck.

You have a rather pronounced hit on that coil, if it’s damaging it could cut out when heated up. I had a BMW R1100S that had a coil that would cut out when hot and replacement fixed it. jut a thought... and best of luck.

Primary difference if I am stating it correctly is that they have slightly less material on the sidewalls/carcass so has less mass and so this helps with lower rotational inertia and makes it easier to hop around on them. From everything I have experienced if the cost is the same or lower on an X11 they are the better all around tire being a bit more robust against punctures and grip is nearly the same in almost every other way. If, on the other hand, you want to hop around a lot the X-Lite would be better.

For my Montesa’s I find the X11 the better tire I have used, the new Dunlop 803 GP is a close second and the former Dunlop 803 ? (Don’t remember the designation) wasn’t a real contender. cant speak to any other brands.

I admit I wouldn't have expected a damaged thermostat to cause an issue like that. Good to know.

If you are riding your bike at competition only I would say the standard chain is the best option but if you have your bike road registered a X ring might be worth consideration. My 2 cents.

I checked on a 2017 4RT to a 2017 4Ride and the part numbers for the pads and calipers are not the same so I would say no. 4RT: (https://www.stblazeymx.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/MONTESA-4RT-2017.pdf) Pads: 45105-NN3-830 Calipers: 45100-NN4-J10 4Ride: (https://www.stblazeymx.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/MONTESA-4Ride-2017.pdf) Pads: 45105-NN4-L80 Calipers: 45100-NN4-L80

Can't speak to the HT2, however I have a TRR and a Zone 4, venting is nearly the same in my opinion. Not sure I can tell the difference between them in that category really. I personally thing the Zone 4 is a touch nicer for the more oval heads and works better with glasses without modification to the padding but its a nominal difference. The largest difference is that the Zone 4 was less expensive for me here in the US, and the chin strap is a bit longer than the TRR and for me I found that to be nicer for getting a good fit. Hope that helps.

I find longer wheel base will provide better grip in slick conditions and on rough ground. It dose change rear wheel hop timing a touch but I don't think most people would notice that much, and technically would make a bike turn a bit slower however again not sure how many people would really notice that. My 2 cents/experience. Hope it helps.