jonnyc21

Without a doubt it could be the oil used. I would change the gearbox oil for something like Maxima 75 or GRO extream 75 if you don't want to go expensive ELF. Most other oil's are going to be a lot thicker than the Montesa was designed for. I have heard both work well in the Montesa but only have experience with ELF or Maxima 75. Maxima works good but I do like the ELF just a little better. Good luck.

The new TRS 125 is being developed with a powervalve, however none of the other trials bikes that I know of have one. (Older bikes excluded) I am guessing it just isn't critical considering the nature of how trials is ridden to need one.

The best answer is ride as many of them as you can if possible then get the one that gels with you the best. Other than personal preference you really can't go wrong with any of them in my opinion. On a more personal preference note... I am a 4T guy so love my Montesa for EFI, plush ride and power delivery. Would love to try a Beta 4T for comparison but don't have any around and haven't run into anyone with one at an event. My wife has a Gas Gas 2T so having played on it a bit I would say that if I was going to consider a 2T I would want to try a Vertigo because I love EFI, and would also want to give a TRS and a current Sherco a go before making a call as I haven't been on any of them. But wouldn't hesitate to get a Beta if that was all that was available. Have nothing against Gas Gas as they are good bikes, just not my favorite because I am not fond of the way they shift from 4th to 5th. this probably doesn't really answer your question but hope it's food for thought.

Before spending lots of time on bike setup, I recommend a good training program. Well worth every penny and way more benefit than a well setup bike!!! now if still want to read on for whatever reason, here you go. This will be very summarized and is based on my experience and advice I got from more experience riders. Note: I am also assuming the bike in question doesn't have any issues with equipment, such as 5-5.5 psi front 3.5-4 psi rear, suspension in good shape, runs good, etc. First, trials isn't anything like other motorcycle sports so setup takes a bit of experimentation and extrapolation. Good luck! Second, at its root the best setup will give you optimal grip and enough rebound and dampening to hop the bike and still do a splatter. so with that in mind... start by recording your current settings.... now, set around 35 to 40% sag. Put your rebound and dampening at between 1/4 and 1/3 from the lowest setting. (Record this setting so you can go back to if needed as well) Now, spend at least a solid hour or two on the bike practicing every different skill you know and feel you can do with that setup. You might need more or less time depending on you ability to feel different adjustments. Now you can start adjusting things and keep track at each adjustment. ...if the front end feels like it wants to or is plowing in a full lock turn you might need to lower the forks in the triple clamp or drop a little pre-load from the rear if your already maxed on the forks. Reverse the settings if you feel like your not able to turn tight enough. if the bike feels pogo stick like turn up the dampening. If the bike is hard to hop turn it down. If you feel all over the place when doing down a stream or through a pile of rocks then turn the dampening up, if the handlebars try to jump out of your hands when deflecting on a rock or the bike seems to push you over/ around the dampening may be up to high. If you find your loosing traction in low grip situations or uneven ground your compression is likely to high, if bouncie compression is to low. I went through a lot of this on my bike setup when I finally did a thorough job of it. I hope this helps.

In my experience it depends, if the bike is cold when you wash it should be fine as long as no water get in the airbox or pipe. However I have seen pressure washing able to get enough water up vent tubes even when not directly spraying them it's worth a start. there is also the consideration if the bike is warm. You can cause moisture to condense with the cool cold water by a hose or pressure wash. Maybe I am just palinode because of a couple of edge cases I have seen, but I am not going to risk it when running the bike up to temp takes such little effort.

I always go tell the fan cycles on and off once. My 2 cents.

As a cheapskate but not one who wants his bike to implode I change the ring every other time. I always inspect it carfuly just in case though. 6 years and going, no issues yet.

I agree with direct spray in barring sand seals is something to avoid, and run the bike up to temperature same day to make sure there isn't water in places it shouldn't be.

Oh and I should have noted that I know of more than one newer Beta 80 that needed a fuel filter because of small particles coming from the tank. Guessing it is something from the manufacturing process, maybe a missing step to flush/clean post assembly or something.

Isn't a conversion to a flat side like Keihin or OKO, however I did re-jet my daughters Beta 80 and it runs fantastic. Note: Because many scooters have the same carb, if the dealer can't get the jets (they often don't have the smaller ones) you should be able to get them here. https://www.treatland.tv/ Summary of jetting changes that should really make a Beta 80 run way better... The 100 main dropped to 98 and suggest having at least 93 and 95 on hand in case its still a bit rich. Example: 93 should be good from around 7,000 to 10,000 feet best guess. The stock 38 pilot to a 35 and if it runs lean up that to a 37, but would expect the 35 to be good. The needle clip stock on mine was in second down of four slots from the factory. I moved it all the way up to the top slot (maximum lean) and the leaner pilot jet should just round it out. If that proves a little to lean you should only have to bring it up one slot. Got the recommendations from another forum, a post titled "2014 Beta Evo 80 Full Size Adventure" made by motobene. Was very helpful. Hope that helps... really helped out our little Beta 80. Good luck!

my guess is it's a ticket sales thing... it shouldn't be, but I wouldn't be surprised if thats it. I know I would still go if I was nearby and Toni couldn't. Would be a bit bummed but still. I hope that's it at least. But no matter what, I hope Toni heals up quick.

Can't say for sure it's the sound but it's a possibility. And in the grand scheme not a hard one to test.

I hear the 315 is especially susceptible to detonation, try some premium fuel if you haven't already, if you have you might even try a mix of 50/50 race fuel and premium. best of luck.

Best option I can find if your willing to buy new. second item down. "4RT billet rear brake pedal" http://www.handdracing.co.uk/userimages/procart2.htm

That is one way to solve that problem. I found that you can bend the tab at the top of the peddle to bring it back quite a bit without welding. This dose bring it in a bit as well so might not be preferable. If not there is always aftermarket peddles that are back a lot and tucked in even more as a secondary option.

A jumper to bypass the angle sensor isn't a bad idea, at the least it will rule out the bank angle sensor as an issue or maybe fix you. Ether way you have one less question on what is the problem.

Can't seem to find just the tube but I know you can get them. here is the full assembly. http://www.trialstoreusa.com/domino-fast-throttle-assembly/ my recommendation is give a shop a call and I bet you could get one ordered up quick. also noted your in the US if so you can always contact Dennis at http://overlandtrail.biz/. Montesa parts is his business...

Stock Montesa 300RR has a black throttle tube or slow turn, you can order a white or fast turn tube for a domino throttle and it will fit right on, it wakes the bike up a lot as it takes less turn on the throttle to get it to full. really its the only modification I have on my 300RR and I love it. It might take a few rides to re-calibrate your self to the faster turn throttle however...

It's all a matter of personal tast, I have been on both and my brain likes 4T's so I seem to stick with them. I play on my wife's 2T often and it's nice how light it feels just brain timing gets me. I tried several other 2T's 250 to 300 and will keep trying them from time to time because who knows if I ever might change my mind. FYI: if you want a change without a new bike and haven't tried a fast throttle tube on your 300RR give it a go. Best mod I ever did to my 17 300 RR.

Good point, I forgot about the fact that a 75 TY175 would have points. I agree with lineaway, condenser and points then check your coil.

Last time I had a problem like that it was a bad ignition coil. Could be a bad spark plug as well. good luck.

Sounds like your low speed jet/cercit is plugged...

I seem to find that the people who value the 200 and 250's are more reluctant to sell because they are harder to get so hold out tell they are ready to get a new one. And that can be a bit. Also with the enduro or MX group with the 4T 450's and 2T 300's they don't always see a 250 as a good size. They seem to forget that a trials bike is 155lbs not 225 or something...?

its all preference, I love my Montesa but a well setup Beta 200 I am sure would be an amazing bike. As above ride both if you can and you will see witch clicks with you.

No, not paranoid... MT43's are rock hard by comparison to standard trials tires. I consider the MT43 to be a dirt bike trials tire not a trials bike trials tire.