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I had a minor mishap and my 2022 gas gas txt 300 fell on its side. There seems to have been some torque between the wheel and bar as it tweaked the forks such that they were not perpendicular anymore. This also bent the front fender brace where it attaches to the forks. Is this pretty common or did I have something loose? Can I ride without that brace/bracket in place (no worries about no fender, thinking structurally)? Is that brace aluminum so that it is sacrificed instead of damaging the forks or can I replace it with a steel one?

Air rises where I live, so first I push the brake pads all the way open forcing most of the fluid back up into the reservoir where I drain it off with a large syringe, then I push fresh DOT4 UP through the brake calliper bleed screw and into the reservoir, then I pump up the brakes to bring there pads back in contact with the disc and fill the reservoir to the prescribed level. Your old fluid will be discoloured compared to the fresh fluid. Same syringe process works for bleeding a hydraulic clutch.

Hi all does any one if you can take the head off a 08 rev 3 250 whilst the engine is still in the frame. Thanks

Is this best done from the bottom nipple up or gravity down? I ment brake fluid not oil, but it was saying dot 3-4

... water content in old brake fluid will boil when the brake becomes hot with use creating the worlds tinniest steam engine inside your hydraulics, it will work right up until the brakes gets hot enough to boil the water creating air bubbles in your brake system which is bad.

That's easy; it doesn't take oil it uses brake fluid which absorbs water out of the atmosphere turning your brake fluid into something very toxic nasty. You need to do what is called a flush of the old brake fluid and replace it with fresh fluid without introducing any air into the hydraulic system. After that you will know if you require new rubber parts in the brake master cylinder or not.

Got the old bird out the garage at the weekend, give her a wash, but noticed the day after, the front brake lever is not engaging sll the way out with the plunger, have to manually flick for brakes to unlock, I’ve checked the oil level, it’s half way up the site glass, looks a little dirty to be honest, question I’m asking is what oil does it use, I’m seeing dot3-4 And is it possible it could have got water in somehow? Was working fine when I got it out.

Not as yet, I'm still watching and waiting. I did find a new one on CSML. Pretty pricy though. I still use the ty-wrap to hold the footpeg up out of the way, but sometimes I am able to give the footpeg good kick up and it will stay up, and then it just takes a nudge from my foot to push it back down. Unfortunately, it doesn't always stay up while trying to start it. LaVern

Update # 4: I decided to fix it. Purchased what appeared to be near mint KTM clutch housing (EBAY) located a couple days in the mail from me plus gaskets/seals from my friendly local KTM dealer. NOTE: There is a tiny over priced seal in the power valve assembly. Luckily I was able to reuse mine. Total damage $300 + my free labour & endless elevated blood pressure. This is NOT what I would call an easy job. I rate changing chain +sprockets at the limit of easy. I had to rebuild the water pump in my TRS 125 & that was aggravating enough, the 80s' power valve adds a whole other level of needless complexity. Pro tip: Remove the power valve drive assembly cap & loosen the locknut while everything is together. This was a bear to do once the clutch housing was oozing gear oil all over my bench. I wasted the best part of my Sunday to disassemble/reassemble. Pro tip: while reassembling the clutch casing to the gear box, watch the alignment of the gasket. Mine kept trying to wiggle out behind/below the kick start, even w/all the bolts in their holes. I thought I had been careful & foreseen all possibilities but no, not quite. While filling the gear box w/oil I spy, from the corner of my eye, oil, fresh & clean & expensive oozing from the box onto my work surface. Turns out there must be an internal hairline crack in the lowest bolt hole for the clutch cover as oil appears to be magically pouring out the bolt head. Drain oil, clean up the mess, install a copper crush washer, refill & voila, no more mess. Pro tip: If you buy used like I did, Just Expect Every Problem while hoping for the best. Or buy the updated piece from TRS & wait however long it takes. If you buy new from KTM make sure it is a genuine part w/the KTM part # molded into the inside by the drain plug. There are a ton of "new" ones on EBAY that are direct from the far east, AVOID. Now the clock starts running on how long this casing will last. Judging by how many new/used sell on EBAY, the prognosis does not look good. To be continued.

Thanks, for the tip on the SC. I am at 600 feet elevation and about 70 degrees F right now.

You can set your shifter height anywhere you prefer as long as the lever isn’t touching your countershaft sprocket. I set mine high just because it’s more comfortable for me. My feet are small and I can’t just move my toe to shift, I have to completely move my whole foot to shift. I wish a shorter shifter was available but I can’t find one.

BW123, I had the same issues with my ‘23 Gasgas. I was always having trouble with jetting and it was a total pain to start. For your bike, it could also be an elevation issue with your current jetting. For me I bought a 28mm SC3 Smartcarb and sold my Keihin. I haven’t had any issues with it since. You may want to consider a Smartcarb. Smartcarbs don’t have jets and I haven’t had to tear down my bike since to get the old carb out and cleaned up. I also never have to worry about jets again no matter what elevation I’m riding at. I get much better MPG too and my bike doesn’t smoke anymore. If your interested in a Smartcarb they always have a Christmas sale when they take $100 off the price. https://smartcarb.com/product/smartcarb-for-gasgas-txt-250-280-300-trials/

Jimmie, No, I don’t have a TY but I’m looking for one. The ones I’ve seen for sale are very trashed out and nearly all of them have the seat and seat pan removed. I was just hoping to stock up on one for when I do locate a bike. No worries about you wanting to keep yours. I totally understand. Yes, you have to be very careful when ordering tires. It’s obvious that they made a mistake but it’s very easy for the purchaser to do the same thing. It’s amazing how many sellers don’t even list whether the tire is tubeless or tube type. I nearly ordered a tire that was tubeless type when I wanted tubeless. I paused the order just as I was about to push the button and decided to call. Glad I did call. Good luck on your build! RonH

Sprido paint 2K

Paint job and stickers done !

Here is a clean mud guard that will allow to put aside the precious new set on the occasion of a small ride.

New to trials and setting up a low-hours used 2022 gas gas txt 300. It has factory jetting, JJH clip 4, 125 main, 48 idle, float parallel with base. Carb cleaned and checked out. Sometimes hard to start and can foul the plug if choke used too many times/kicks. Also, sometimes it will try to start cold without the choke. This makes me think it is too rich on the idle jet. I tried adjusting the air screw to maximize idle speed after setting the idle a bit high. This was not very conclusive honestly, but it seemed like the air screw wanted to be at least 2 turns out, so also pointing to a smaller idle jet. What are people usually running on these engines? Are they usually run a bit rich to maintain low end power? Additionally, I ordered and am going to install S3 lower compression head to help with starting and tame the power for learning a bit. Will this affect jetting? Any other recommendations appreciated!

New to trials and setting up a used 2022 gas gas txt 300. Any recommendations on where to set the shifter height? Right now it is set well above the peg height.

Sorry been on holiday had no signal all week, glad some one picked up on it thanks. Yeah doesnt show on the parts diagram but is on most keihin carbs with the security screws. Daft really how hard they are to obtain.

It's time to refresh the old mudguard.

Ahhh, I see why the probs with the photos now. Thanks for the explanation on that! RonH, I do still have the seat pan. It has many cracks that you can't see, and I've already began the repairs for that. My plans are to attempt to find a useable seat and use the seat base. Sorry about that. But you've got me interested now...... Do you have one that you are working on? If so, any pics of that? By the way, my IRC TR-011 tire came today, but I've already sent it back on the assumption that the wrong one was sent to me by mistake. IRC makes 2 types of the same model or trials tire; a TR-011TT (Tube Type), and a TR-011TL, which is for modern bikes with tubless rims. The tire that came today had the word "TUBLESS" embossed on the side of the tire, and a sticker on the tread that said "TUBLESS". I can understand someone's mistake on this deal. But if IRC has tire lettering with "TUBLESS" on each side of a tire that's meant to run an inner tube, that seems kinda dumb to me..... 🙄 Wouldn't think they'd do that???? I've not seen a Tube Type IRC TR-011 yet so I don't know...... Jimmie

Thanks for posting the photos. Awesome bike! Regarding your problem with the photos: There is a limit you can post unless you’re a paying member. However, you can still post all the pictures you want if you link them to a posting website like Flickr or Imgur. Oh yeah, do you still have the fiberglass seat pan? I’d like to buy it if at all possible. Good luck!

I think I've posted too large of files in the post and photos above, perhaps? Something is keeping me from posting the newer photos I took yesterday. I get some sort of file limit size message. Anyway, I'm grateful for the opinions and help here on the matter of what tube to run. Thanks! Jimmie