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Yes, Chris said he might start a new class this year. Otherwise the early liquid cooled bikes are legal in the modern vintage class.

I have a 2012 ST290. I looked in the service manual, and there is a reference for removing and re-packing the silencer packing fibers on the newer models However, on the 2012 model, I am not sure this can be done. It is of a different design than what is shown in the manual. On my bike, there IS a philips screw in the correct location that would indicate it is possible, but when I remove that screw, nothing comes apart. Does anyone know if the silencer tube can be removed for cleaning or repacking on the 2012 model?

Bials, here are a few places that sell TL parts. Hopefully you can find what you need on them. https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dlya-motocyklov/honda/tl250-14857/tl250-28759/tl250-a-787928?network=x&adposition=&keyword=&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22419889174&gbraid=0AAAAADdym2axmanakEDnZRMjcQ5KOwMbQ&gclid=EAIaIQobChMItNiJ08SYkgMVZg6tBh35kzofEAAYAyAAEgI1rfD_BwE https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-tl250_model302/?bg_source=ga&bg_campaign=16511123247&bg_kw=dsa-1465129992666-mi--pi--ppi-&bg_source_id=586686834193&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=16511123247&gbraid=0AAAAABvnBcJu1N-OSlIKn7IozHy-M-FqW&gclid=EAIaIQobChMItNiJ08SYkgMVZg6tBh35kzofEAAYASAAEgLI0fD_BwE https://www.speedandsport.com/model/tl250/ https://www.vintco.com/shop/Honda/TL250

The 20 is worth about £1400 I think

They seem a bit short on supply used too, I’ve been looking for an Oset 12 for my Grandson, looks like it will have to be a new one. can you not advertise it here,? What do you expect the 20 will fetch?

Thanks Feetupfun, I am definitely going to look to see where the closest vintage trials events are. I might give it a try after I sort my bike out. Higher bars/lower pegs might be necessary. Are you aware of any dealers that might still have TL250 accessories? Thanks. Oh, I'm in the US, but it really doesn't matter.

Thanks. I am sorta set on a TL and might branch out later on. I'll probably be doing more trail riding with my son and grandson than actual trials. I did really enjoy seeing how many difficult objects I could go over as a youngster. I could climb much more difficult terrain than my friends on their higher powered bikes. I'll see what I can do within reason at my age.

Connecting rod comes as a kit. But it is 400 dollars more for a complete crank.

Thanks for the reply. I will still ride my CRF and will probably ride more trails than trials. Ha! I plan to sit plenty of the time on the TL! I broke my tib and fib about 2 years ago on my XR650 but I'm doing pretty well now. It did take almost a year to get back close to normal though.

At 69, I agree that tall bars make things easier on old backs. The TL250 is a heavy beast. I had one and it weighed 250 lbs without gas. It was also a bit short of ground clearance compared to other bikes. It did have a very nice fork. I find that the TY175 is the easiest bike to ride by far. It is maybe 60 or 70 pounds lighter than a TL250, not a whole lot more than a 4rt. It kicks easy, starts easy and turns very tight. Power is slow and very easy to control yet it easily lifts the front wheel to go over things. For a mid 70s 175, It is quite surprising what kind of hills it will go up in 3rd gear. It is not as capable as a modern bike but easier to ride because you are not constantly working the clutch and brakes. Even with modern shocks, its primarly weakness is suspension. When going up a rocky creek bed like they seem to do all of the time in the UK, you feel like a ball in a pin ball machine. But, that may be true of most twin shocks. If you don't do a lot of that, you may really like one. If you are set on a 4 stroke, a Honda Reflex is also much easier to ride than a TL250.

When I bought a con rod kit for a Beta 125, it came with the big end pin. Don't they all? It is basically the inner bearing race. (unless I'm confusing termonology) Beta USA told me people were just buying complete cranks. IIRC, the price was about double but you did not to pay someone for the crank building work. The 125 crank was a little tiny thing with lots of plastic for filling volume. It looked like you needed some specilized fixturing to support it in the press. It was not mine so I took it to a specilized shop. The guy who did the work did not want to tell me or show me how he supported of held it.

Hi Wes. We are the same age and I still ride competition trials. Make sure the bars and pegs layout allow you to ride with comfort standing up. A lot of old trials bikes have relatively high pegs and when they were new, they also had high bars. Modern bars are not as high as the old bars. I find when practicing that I ride for 5 to 10 minutes on trials stuff, then stop riding and sit on the seat to recover. Riding competition can be easier on your body than practicing because you usually have to wait to ride each section, and also on a twinshock you can usually ride between sections sitting down.

There is no reason to assume that the big end pin will be OK to reuse after a motor suffers a failed big end bearing. When the crankshaft has been pushed apart, the pin can be inspected for damage.

If someone posts something new, it is visible to everyone who looks at the Trials Central forums, whether the topic started recently or many years ago.

Anyone still looking at these posts? I might need some help with my TL250

Hi all, Stripped my Evo 300 factory 2012 down for what I thought was a top end rattle, however found I have a lot of play in the big end on the Conrod. Struggling to find a Conrod kit for the bike, does any one know if there are alternatives (i.e pro x kit that fits the beta 300rr enduro) or similar. New Conrod from Beta is £190, am I correct in assuming the crankpin won't be worn, only the Conrod? Many thanks

I am 74 yrs old and own a 1975 Suzuki RL250, and a 1975 Honda TL250. I still ride, but not trials, just trails with my grandkids. Standing for extended periods is a problem for me at times, but more of a problem is my balance and reflexes. Last May I fractured my left fibula while riding my son's 1978 Yamaha TY250. It was supposed to be a 6-week recovery time, but for me it ended up a 12-week recovery. I did get out a few times after that and look forward to getting out again this year. I live in Pennsylvania, 6 miles in from Lake Erie and the snow has me working on the bikes instead of riding them. I think you'll be fine coming off of a Honda CRF300L. Have fun. LaVern

Hi everyone, I want to say thanks for letting me join. I got my first trials bike when I was a teenager. It was a slightly used 1973 Honda TL125. I rode that thing on the thousands of acres near my house. It's long gone, but I am purchasing a Honda TL250 soon. I ride Honda CRF300L at the moment and enjoy it, but it's time to slow down a little and try the trials thing again. At 67 years old, I hope I can handle standing for so long on the pegs. I don't know how much advice I can give you guys/gals, but I hope you will indulge my many questions. Thanks, Wes

While I cannot answer your question directly, looking through the Bultaco (red) parts book, here's what I found. The 106 needle jet is listed (18.15-020/106) for the following models: Lobito MK III, Lobito MK IV, model 74, Matador MK IV, Sherpa T 250, Sherpa S 100, 125,175, 200 and Pursang MK II & III. The 106A needle jet (76.15-020/106A) appears unique, only being listed for the Lobito model 76 series. Same for the 105A (76.15-020/105A) and 107A (76.15-020/107A) needle jets, specific to the model 76. Your 30mm carburetor 76.15-001 The model 76 float bowl (76.15-003) has the notation; "with lowered main jet". I hope this helps some. You have a very nice-looking model 76 Lobito! .

It might just be me but I'm having real difficulty selling my sons Oset 24 - literally zero interest. And I'm just about to try and sell my youngest's Oset 20 too 😳. Never had this before selling on Facebook marketplace or locally. So I'm looking for advice on best sales approach and where to list them as it seems they're possibly a bit niche? Normally I'd say this would suggest they're priced too high but I've advertised it slightly below others and it's in top condition. I'm obviously missing something. Crazy thing is that they're brilliant bikes for younger ones getting into the sport! Its most frustrating. I think an issue may be that it seems Oset is going though a bit of a problem patch since Triumph took over with after sales and spares taking a hit and it's putting people off. Although I can't say I've noticed any issues with eBay being a good source of parts (all the main trials suppliers are on there too). Any input gratefully received 🙂

I’m in the process of rebuilding the Spanish Amal 930 concentric on my 1971 Lobito 175 Mk4. The needle jet is stamped 106A, and that’s what is listed in the owner’s manual as the correct jet. Amal concentrics had long and short needle jets and some jets were for 4 stroke applications, with others being for two strokes. I have seen lots of Amal needle jets for sale that are designated 106, but not 106A. Does anyone know what the difference is? Thanks for any help!

Honda Elsinore 125. The tank is a standard Honda TL, with scallops cut out of the sides.

Hi all. Right I’m going to throw a grenade in here on this subject. Stock jetting is pilot 60, main 90 X2 needle and 70 slide, this we all mainly know. Right here comes the grenade. I’m running 52 pilot and 85 main to get my plug looking anything like how it should, I’ve gone right through the carb, float needle, float height, new needle, new atomiser, new choke plunger. On stock jetting the bike simply over fuels and the consumption is quite high. We’ve had this problem with another SWM and also a TX311 and in both cases the problem is solved by leaning the jetting. All the bikes pick up a lot better and do rev out ok. A 70 slide is lean and I believe by using a 60/90 set up and in some cases 65/95 we are mistaking poor pick up and rev out on under fuelling when in fact it’s possibly the opposite. All bikes from new tend to be jetted a bit on the rich side to prevent nip ups and warranty claims but I feel you’ve got to really experiment in this area and especially so with a trials bike. I’m not saying my set up will work on your bike but a little tweeking can reap rewards. I now find the pilot /needle circuit to be quite precise and you don’t have to clear the engines throat due to over fuelling. should add were 200-600m above sea level.Let the abuse begin 😂

Uh, got another "idea": might the bogging be caused by a bad flywheel side crank seal? I don't think so, as the bike idles regularly 'til it starts bogging and if it was getting air I think idle should go up erratically.

Sounds like a standard part if the bike was being sold to somebody with a license restriction and the intention to plate it as such. Pull that out and you will have a lot more power.