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Might anyone know of a lower compression piston compatible with the B44?

Fill and drain bolts are both M12 x 1.5

I just spent quite a bit of time looking thru the OEM parts, of Partzilla and Babbitt's and find no parts fiche that shows a TM250 with a right side clutch lever as you show. I can see in your picture it's a Suzuki side cover. I wonder if like Yamahas the Suzukis were manufactured with differences depending on where they were shipped to. I'm in the USA, where are you located? Thanks for this conversation. I am finding it quite interesting and educational. LaVern

It doesnt have a gearbox mate its an Epure Race 21 so its just the clutch The drain plug is this one I just want to know if i can get a generic one the same rather than having to get a specific one ordered in.

@DanRev4t The 2007/2008 Rev 4t uses the same water pump components as the 2009 on BETA EVO 4T , as far as I know the APICO BETA aluminium upgrade parts are listed as a fit on a 4T BETA motor water pump ? Check with BETA in ITALY to see if the parts are the same. If you don't want to chance it.

You mentioned an Allen head drain plug, maybe if you post a photo of that plug and it's location perhaps the mystery can be solved. Depending on the year and model of your bike you may not have a gearbox.

Yeah it is a confusing one as it stopped working after i'd changed the clutch oil which really shouldnt have affected anything. An update is that it now works. I took it off the lift stand and lay it on its side, pumped the lever a few times and gave the area near the bleed nipple some taps and when i stood the bike back up it worked perfectly. Now the weird bit, as soon as i put it back on the stand it wouldnt work, take it off the stand works fine??? So it could've actually been working all the time as i'd kept it on the stand since it stopped working while i had it in bits. I'm going to take it out in the morning and give it a proper test and at least its got new mineral oil 🤣

I think you guys are referring to hydraulic fluid that operates the clutch but the question is about the gearbox/clutch oil that the clutch operates in. I have no idea how that could interfere with clutch engagement. Maybe we'll get the rest of the story.

Not a mod i have seen. definitely not a Suzuki or Beamish mod

Wow that's interesting. Do you know how they handle the existing clutch rods going to the stator side of the engine? I also thought I saw a Suzuki, or Beamish or Suzuki/Beamish with a clutch arm coming out of the top of the stator side case. With that it seems easier to do than switching completely to the other side of the engine. Boy, at 73 I'm still learning, and at 73, that's a project that will be left just to think about😄. Thanks for the information. LaVern

Not on your engine. its was always the worm drive as on the TS250. in the newer black engine bikes the clutch arm was moved to the right-side of the engine . works in the same way as the older TM mx bikes. You can upgrade the TS based engine like your. to a Clutch case of the TM250. rare to find these days. but they do turn up. It then will look like the picture ive added to this post

3D tools for this service: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7069032

Hi All, My 2008 Rev 4t needs a new water pump impeller as the plastic one has cracked and the bike is running very hot. My question is, I have seen the Apico/Jitsie upgrades for the Rev3, is anything similar available for the Rev4t? Just a suggestion for a metal impeller that fits would be great. Thanks.

Tools for tech forks maintenance https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7069032

Yeah that's the one haha. I'm thinking it is a bubble in the slave as I've bled it probably 6 times now and changed the master cylinder cover. I'm going to bleed again from the nipple now I've got more oil delivered but nice one, I'll try leaning it to work it out. Would disconnecting the hose and filling into the hole work?

ShakennStirred, Thanks for that info. The one thing on my RL250 is the terribly hard clutch pull. I read, saw, or was told somewhere that Beamish took care of that problem by a totally different clutch activation to ease that problem. I think and correct me if I am wrong that is where the cable attaches to a lever on the topside which then activates the push rod. If that is so, did that style originate on a Suzuki engine or was that Beamish design? LaVern

Thanks dozerash!

dozerash, Do you have a service manual for rebuilding your Aprilia? I have a TXR311 M but I'm looking for a manual with English specs in it for installing the new connecting rod, bearings, big bore piston, etc. Thanks!

The 250 motor in your bike , is a modded Ts250 engine. in the Beamish world, there called the silver engine. the 325cc engine is a new engine and only came from Suzuki as a 325. Beamish in the UK got some engines converted down the 250cc(because the 325 can be a bit of a handful) these engines are called the Black engine bikes. Also an interesting note, Suzuki never used the engine themselves, it was a UK Beamish Suzuki exclusive.

I was passing a motorhome in Yellowstone on an xl 350 and almost hit a Grizzley that was running across the road out of my view. Scared the crap out of me. Luckily he was at a full run out of there.

When you say "clutch doesn't engage", I assume you mean it doesn't disengage. Assuming it worked before you changed the clutch fluid, the only possibility is air in the system. Although motorcycle hydraulics seem to be notoriously difficult to bleed, the clutch really shouldn't be too bad as there is a continuous gradient up from the slave cylinder to the master cylinder. Filling from the bleed nipple end should be the easiest as you will be pushing the air uphill. I've never done the clutch but when I did the front brake I finished with lots of tapping of the brake line near the master cylinder and watching for tiny bubbles coming out into the reservoir. With that and a bit of pumping I got there in the end. The only other possibility I see for your problem is that you have a big chunk of air trapped in the slave cylinder. Try lying the bike towards its left side.

Whenever possible, park your car or van right in front of the garage door. I have a couple of big blocks of wood fixed to the ground so I just touch them with the back wheels and the car is an inch from the door. And just in case the scum try to drag the car out of the way I park it in gear so that both front and rear wheels are "braked". I think multiple layers of security are better than just one super-high security device.

I just picked up a 93 Aprillia Climber last night. It’s in good original condition. Just needs some maintenance. It came with a lot of new and extra parts. I need to weld the tab for the rear fender mount. I noticed the swingarm is a little loose. Anyone know the bearing sizes or if there is a bearing, sleeve and seal kit for the swingarm?

I would be surprised if it is just a spark making the noise as it's quite pronounced. Be great if that is all it is though. Will probably pull the clutch cover and have a look, clean the gauze as well. I didn't notice an oil flow bolt but again good call, will take a look. There was plenty of oil in the rocker cover.