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www.tricksinthesticks.co.uk or www.inchperfecttrials.co.uk These have bikes to hire or take your own and pay less. It is harder than it looks but don't be put off . if you stick at it and put some time in it is a good cheap sunday out and there are plenty of trials events around where you are. Find events @ www.tmxnews.co.uk/ whats on this week-end. Southend & District MCC has a trial on 30th NOV @ Poles wood (NEAR THE SECRET BUNKER), Ongar Rd ,Kelvedon Hatch . CM15 0LA Starts 10.30am finish around 15.30pm Riders will be there around 9.00am if you want to ask people questions about bikes and how to get started in the sport . Too find the venue look for a day-glo orange triangle at the side of the road that points to the entrance. Its free to watch and go in for spectators. There is usually a burger van at most trials events if you want to eat/drink there. Most important thing in Trials is a well prepared bike and then tyre pressures in the newest tyres you can afford the best being Michelin X11 Pressures for mud 5 psi Front 3/3.5 psi Rear and for riding on stone and Rock or dry conditions 6psi Front 4 psi Rear those being the usual starting points . Others will no doubt chime in with other recommendations.

The std 300 Beta in stock mode is weak. Beta used to have a bunch of factory parts to make it zing. My son had a 2015 with all the goodies and it was a beast. On the other hand I spent a day riding Ray`s bike and it was a monster, but was quite fun! If you look at the stock plate on the left, you can see the witness marks were a few springs moved off center. Just because you use different springs does not mean they don`t work correctly. The Japanese put alot of thought in the aftermarket parts they use.

Hi. I have just purchased a 2022 JBR 300 at the weekend it was a bit of a rough runner but got it nice and smooth now. However the exhaust seems extremely loud in comparison to the Beta I have, is it normal or am I missing something, I took the exhaust tip off and there is plenty packing in there. any advice appreciated. cheers.

50 yr old bucket lister… grew up watching Kick Start! Did push bike trials as a younger and always wanted to progress to motorbike. Where can I go to try it out? Essex, UK based….

Hi very interested in the ossa. Please contact me on this number 07772702504

That's a good question. It seems to be a mix of parts. As I've said before, only half joking, no two EFI OSSAs were built identically. What is the 10th character of the VIN?

Hello, Do you know what year this is and where abouts are you? And would you take a twin shock in p/x, Thanks, Steve.

I also think it would slip when removing springs. The 4rt clutch is quite grabby compared to other models, Elf and light gear oils emphasise the issue more so. The early ones with the small master cylinder were particularly bad. Setting the lever up correctly is quite important and the dimpled plates really do help, much more progressive and will not slip, ever. The Mitani clutch pack is awesome, starts in 1st gear and is quite a bit lighter…. expensive too, but a good investment. I believe there are titanium springs for these, not sure if they give a different feel or are just purely for weight saving

Hi, I have decided to sell my OSSA tr280i it's in fantastic condition and is keep in my house on display please have a good look at the photos you will not find a better example I'm looking for £2000. ONO

Want to know what will happen after you put lighter pressure plate springs then required in your clutch <- it's going to slip in high gear ranges, same as if you leave 2 of the 6 springs out. Rhetorical question but dimpled steel clutch plates in a wet clutch leaves more space for oil between the plates, do you believe that scenario will make the clutch grab stronger or slip easier 🤔 and with dimpled plates having more oil between the plates and less surface area contacting the friction plates, will that make your clutch feel any lighter to pull at the lever, I think not. Throw in some lighter springs and you have a formula for inducing more clutch slip.

Why do they rub? Do the springs have a smaller inside diameter? Is the plate just slightly thicker with the groove to center the springs.

They give a little more leverage for the shock, it’s hard to explain how it feels, but the shock feels a lot more responsive to rider input. There isn’t much difference when you line them up side by side but it does feel better to ride with. I prefer the feel of the Showa shock compared to the RCV thingy and run with about 7 threads showing below the lock ring. Be careful though as it can be a little more prone to throwing you over the bars until you are used to it. Make sure your bearings and bushes are good. 1mm of play in the linkage turns in to a lot at the rear wheel. Don’t skrimp and buy the all balls kit, Always get the genuine Honda bushes and most importantly the spherical bearing, it’s a world apart from all balls quality

What model tire exactly, is it a tube type tire that you bought? that would account for it, tubeless rims are different profile. ... if it is a tube type tire sell it to somebody that rides an old TY.

I live in the muddy South of England and was persuaded to buy an IRC insread of my usually Michelin. Well it may be very good in the mud but it would be nice if it didn't keep going flat (on my recent TRRS). I moaned about it to my regular riding mates and they said, "Oh yes they deflate all the time" and then they offered various suggestions to keep the air in the tire, sticky rim tapes and inflating to 70 psi were a couple. However my conclusion was that I would never buy another one, no matter how good they are claimed to be. To discover your tire's gone flat halfway through an event is a complete pain especially if you're nowhere near your wheels. And no I don't want to carry a pump with me. As far as I'm concerned they are not fit for purpose on my trials bike, but maybe they work properly on different shaped rims?

The problem you are noting with the Beta 4T throttle response is they fitted the bike with a CV carburetor. Vacuum operated carburetors rob engine intake vacuum pressure to operate the carburetor negatively effecting both the throttle response and the engine performance, in PGM-Fi fuel systems 100% of the engine vacuum pressure is dedicated to intake of air & fuel, Fi does not exhibit the throttle lag and occasional misfires inherent to the CV carbs normal operation.

Are HP and torque numbers available for the standard Beta 300 4t, maybe with rpm numbers? I have one of those too. In a tight section, the Montesa feels much more powerful so I need to use very little throttle. I thought it was overall more powerful. However, the other day I took it to some open trails with good size hills. There it feels similar to the Beta. I wonder if there is a real power difference or if the fuel injection just makes it more responsive.

Hello friends. I’ve become the owner of a wrecked 1987 BETA TR34, which is now running again, although it still needs quite a few things to be fully finished. In any case, it’s already rideable, but I have a problem with the clutch. According to the available parts catalogues, it seems that at some point in the past someone replaced the clutch basket with a 1989 model, because mine is an open-type basket, while the catalogue shows that it should be closed around the perimeter (and based on posts I’ve read here on the forum, the closed one should actually be better than the original type). The problem is that the clutch slips at higher RPM. I would like to ask if anyone has the specifications or measurements of the pressure springs in the clutch basket, and if you could share them. Mine seem visually a bit tired, and after measuring them they’re about 36 mm long — but I haven’t found any information anywhere about what the correct length should be when they are in good condition. The friction plates are in nice shape (around 3.6 mm if I remember correctly) and the steel plates also look OK — around 2 mm thick, not warped or discolored from overheating. Thank you very much for any clarification. Martin Gáborko

Yes that normal trashy clutch sound in neutral the 5 plate Montesa clutch does not exhibit, the TRS o-ring fail was very early after receipt of the bike, was leaking down from the start. Fortunately I rarely have clutch problems with any of my vehicles, that tractor lube works perfect, you just never even tried it to know better.

That is 'nornal' on a diaphram clutch! The oring should not go bad if you are using mineral oil. Must be that tractor lube!

Yes 2 and experienced a failure in a TRS clutch O-ring already. The clutch is not up to par with HRC Cota 315 or 4RT, I have to keep it engaged or it sounds like a bag of bolts.

You were repying to me, again! LOL The Montesa clutch has never been very good ever. But we all have opinions. You should know better. Don't you ride a TRS now?

any particular reason you made that a reply to my post or is that just a habit 🤔

There is a reason the hrc machines use a different clutch.

The 4RT 301RR makes a pathetic 16.3 HP , 1 HP more than a VERTIGO 125 but the 301RR puts out 15.1 ft/lbs torque , where as the VERTIGO 125 makes 8.8 ft/lbs . With that much torque output of the 301 it may be better leaving it with the stock clutch spring set up. 4RT 260 makes 15.6 HP and 13.4 ft/lbs torque