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@halfway www.birkettmotorsport.com - scorpa - parts books - halfway down the page. SY/TY 125F info.

If the engine is in the bike, put it in 1st and try just tapping the gear lever into neutral with your heel whilst rocking the bike. If the shimming is making the gear selection a bit stiff it could cause the selector to go straight past neutral to 2nd and vice-versa. Tapping it with your heel should move it just enough for neutral. It's how I get neutral on my 250 as the gear selection is a bit stiff, my 350 gets neutral a lot easier

TT-R125 manuals are available online. Valve clearance (cold) IN: 0.08 ~ 0.12 mm (0.0031 ~ 0.0047 in) EX: 0.10 ~ 0.14 mm (0.0039 ~ 0.0055 in) Check the cam chain tensioner too.

Valve clearance and cam chain were going to be my first checks in a couple of days, hopefully just the valves not adjusted to spec. Any ideas what spec should be?

https://www.redlinestands.com/catalog/shop-equipment-c-327/tire-change-equipment-c-327_331/tire-changers-c-327_331_248/discontinued-coats-220-manual-tire-changer-p-1865 I had this manual changer for over thirty years. Lubed every tire I ever installed. All trials tires I could usually mount just by hand. Street tires were just as easy. Some of those rock hard knobbies were still the worse. Wish I still had it, but I quit working on bikes for the most part. Just my own. With all my grand kids growing up, it's still would of been usefull! .

Regarding ticking, have you checked the valve clearance? Regarding low-rpm hesitation...

Dog bone linkage bearings need to be serviced lots to keep water out, if the part becomes deformed from impacts it is near impossible to keep the needle bearings good. Many parts are unchanged in the 4RT I just used hydraulic oil in the transmission and change it often, I think the clutch is also unchanged on the 4RT, 2 paper and 3 cork fibre plates in the clutch, nothing special.

Manual sent, hope you find it useful. 🙂

Thanks again Woody for getting touch. Engine is in the bike , I'll take it off the bike lift and try it. Yes the plunger is fitted. I'll let you know how I get on. Best regards, Colin.

It’s a radial tire. I did mount it on the rim, went on a lot harder than a regular rim. I had a heck of a time seating the bead. Tire looks normal on the rim. I don’t think it’s going to move!

I have an owners manual that I can send you a copy of if you would like to PM me your direct e mail address.

Looking to service a 315r which runs great, anything I should be looking out for or giving special attention? And how do you figure out what year they are? Any manuals for the bike would be useful. Any pointers for coolant, gearbox oil and brake/clutch fluid (dot 4?). How often should the steering head and suspension pivots be stripped and regreased?

Hi, got an unknown age 125 4 stroke with a yamaha engine, monoshock. Trying to find out some servicing info or links to manuals for these, engine oil, brake fluid, carb settings etc. It does have quite a loud ticking from the top end, which comes and goes a bit but is there right through the rev range. It runs ok except a bit hesitant at low rpm. Any obvious problems with these engines that would give the ticking?

It’s a Aprilia Climber 280R trials bike. The model Climber was made from 1989 to 1994. I had a 1992 in the 90s, was the first trials bike I competed on.

Thanks for your input Feetupfun! hope all's well with you, sir!.. i had someone else put the new tires on that TY250 you helped me so much with a few years back ..but i'm going to do this Honda one myself...just need to get more confident with these things..won't hurt to have some windex/soap at the ready anyway...just waiting on a few parts and i'll report back!

Tubed Trials tyres usually go on and off so easily using hand levers I don't usually bother with lube but if I was using a machine to fit one, I would use lube to make the sliding part move nicely. I do use lube when changing knobby tyres with hand levers because they have such a stiff construction.

Not sure what you mean by always in gear, if the box will go from 1st to 2nd and vice-versa you're going past neutral. With the bike in neutral the final drive will still turn due to drag on the gears. Put the bike in first gear, then whilst turning the engine gently pull the gear lever up but not hard enough that it goes straight to second, or just tap it gently up with your hand. Hold the final drive with one had and turn the engine, if the box is in neutral the drive won't turn, if it's in a gear you won't stop the final drive turning. It might take a few goes to get neutral, much easier with the engine in the bike and rocking the bike backwards and forwards I'm assuming the detent plunger is fitted and working properly

Tubeless tires yes, the only place a tube tire bead runs tight is at the rim lock plus cars and trucks have a thing called a safety rim but his chrome steel rims lack that feature it will mount with low pressure.

Walk into any tire shop, motorcycle shop, semi truck tire shop, race shop at any track. They all use some sort of mounting lube. LOL.

I have been looking for a pair of upper fork legs for my 2014 Montesa 4rt repsol. Is there an alternative that will fit the 39mm Showa lower legs? Hard to find Montesa parts that don’t break the bank! Cheers

Now I gotta put something on the rear so I have a spare bike again 😎

Done 😎 how long did I take? Didn't see anything that needed water or soap except my hands, didn't need to wash the bike because it was last used in snow. Get the ~14" tire irons they make it easy after you get arthritis.

Thanks Guys! really appreciate you. Feeling confident to do it, baby steps ..lol. Just ordered some proper motorbike tire spoons (tusk) as i figured my 2' Harbor Freight irons are best just used as crowbars... Other than that the ol' tractor is in fine fettle! slowly getting better (at riding and wrenching) and all the mods I've learnt here have been a HUGE help! i know having a road legal trials bike is a huge compromise, but given i ride about as well as a drunken elephant probably doesn't make too much difference at this stage, lol Joyful weekend to all and thanks again!

On a tube tire 🤔 why make a mess, you do not need to lube a tube tire to mount it, you don't even need to pre stretch the side walls to make a bead seal because the tube will push it into place. Where would you want to put the lubricant 🤔 add that I don't mount a tube tire anything like that video but I know it will still work because I'v done it a hundred times. Going to change out a tire set today, same way I've been doing them for 60 years. I don't add air to the tube until the tire is mounted either! Rim goes inside the tire first, I leave the tube flat and just make sure not to pinch the tube or poke. I push on the rim lock bolt before adding any air to make sure the tube is setting correctly across the top of the rim lock shoe. Tubeless tires go on tight with a big bang and need lots of air pressure and water or lube to help pop over the safety bead, Tube tires don't go on with a bang.