trialsrfun

Thank you Greeves for the pictures and Bultaco for the information, I was unable to make it to Scotland to watch the trial but I am sure I missed an excellent event as well as the good weather. For my part I like all bikes from that era and think that the presence of the bikes from Spain could only add to the overall interest of the trial. Is it not possible that had the British manufacturers at that time looked more closely at the bikes from rival companies we might now still have a British trials bike in production. What a fantastic collection of bikes your freind who lives near Madrid has, have they been bought secondhand in good condition or restored and do they all run. With luck I may be in Scotland next time and hope to see you riding there. trf.

Has anyone any photos they could place here on TC of the Spanish made bikes that were ridden in this years P65 Scottish Trial.

Interesting topic, on the bikes with the modifications was the wheelbase shorter or was the swing arm lengthened to return the w/base back to that of the std. bike. Was anything changed at the front end head angle etc ?

Off topic I know, also it must have been asked previously, but how do you post pictures??? triton We are still waiting for someone to tell us, it really is a well kept secret.

Just tow the pick-up behind the bike.

It is a well kept secret known only to a few I have asked the question several times myself. Andy if you read this spill the beans please.

OTF I have always fastened the chain tensioner to the swinging arm and not the frame thinking that when the suspension compressed the tensioner moved with the chain rather than being left further away from the chain run, this seems to work well but I have never mounted to the frame so have no comparison. I am building a Jackson framed Cub at the moment so I am interested to know what yokes you have tried and what offset measurement you consider best. Looking at the picture of your B40 you were using OSSA yokes were they a problem. Good luck with the tensioner.

Have a look on the BVM web-site they list bars from Renthal, Apico, Domino/Tomaselli etc but I do not recall any of them being as high as those 70s bars. I do not think Renthal have made bars without the cross brace for a long time. Slightly lower bars and lowered footrests would give back the original riding position but would improve the overall handling.

I have some pictures that might be of interest to TC forum readers but how do I go about placing them on the website. Please keep it simple and explain just what is required as my pc skills are limited.

All photography depends on good light the smaller the f stop number the greater the aperture (diameter of the hole which lets light into the camera) every f stop doubles or halves the amount of light entering the camera and onto the film/chip. F stop numbers are frequently 1.4, 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22 etc, then there is the shutter speed again each step doubles or halves so the higher the number less light, lower number more light these might be 60, 125, 250, 500, 1000, 200 etc. Then there is the ASA rating this is the film surfaces sensitivity to light so again the double/half rule, film speeds are usually 100, 200, 400 but there are many more. The ASA thing seems to have been carried over to digital and usually the lower the number 100 or 200 would give the best results. Shutter speed needs to be quite high to stop movement say 250 plus. A basic setting for a sunny day with maybe light broken cloud would be 100 ASA and F8 at 125, if subject were moving go to 250 at F4 or 500 at F2.8. These settings are all the same and will each give the correct exposure. Flash can work well but the range is generally less than you think and the background may come out looking like night. Usually though opt for one of the program modes and take loads and loads of pics then delete those that you are not pleased with.

Beta every time, quality bike that steers and rides perfectly.

Thank you Andy.

Andy they are bike pics taken with a digital camera for the bike specific forum section. Sorry but I do not know what you mean it seems far from simple to me as I have limited knowledge of computers, is there an easy way to explain what is reqd. I really do not have a clue what zip, RAR or archive means.

I would like to send some pics to the TC website but do not have a clue as to how this is done, I realise that this may have been covered previosly but I cannot see where so can any one explain but please try and keep it simple. Do the pics have to be taken on a low resolution or anything ?

The forks on our bike are a bit lively so it must be a common problem with the 175 as for the swing arm compared to our bike the wheel spindle appears to be further back giving more clearance in front of the tyre.

Presume the GasGas kick start boss is made from steel with a pinch bolt fastening but is it from a specific model or year. Would it be possible to have some photos of the conversion. Thanks TRF.

Johnnyboxer the Majesty is the same model as ours (Iwill try to get some pics on the site if we can work out how to) but looking at the swing arm it appears to be longer than std, have you lengthened it and if so how did you do it. We have always thought the std swing arm to be too short making the bike prone to stand up. Looks like Bulto or similar rubbing blocks top and bottom of swing arm ? Have you changed the front forks at all. Generally top notch bikes that attract much interest wherever they are ridden.

We were sitting further back behind that rock on the web picture so could not see any fuel leaks but the carb mod is 100% effective on my bike, was his bike at some crazy angle when the fuel leaked out Bob.

Thank you Andy for the excellent picture of Antonio Bou riding off the rock that I now have as a desktop image, overall I thought his bike looks very std but is it me or are the footrests much lower mounted than normal and the front fork yokes (triple clamps for you guys in the US) appear different also. The top one is not the 06 type as it does not seem to have the slots milled in where the legs go through and the fork legs appear to slope back as though the steering stem and legs are not parallel so making the bike wheeelbase shorter, what do you all think then again it may just be the camera angle ?

We too run our Betas at 70-1 (50-1 while running in) on Silkolene semi-synthetic pre-mix, I know loads of you run with fully synthetic oils but my understanding of it is that a trials bike does not run at a high enough rpm to maintain a sufficiently stable engine temperature to enable a fully synthetic oil to do its job properly.

Stay with the gallons Charlie they switched us to litres and now we pay about the same per litre as you do for a gallon.

Bobs suggestion is exactly what I did with my sons bike moving them out as and when he felt cramped on the bike, there is definitely a noticeable loss of leverage though when the grips are moved inwards. But to try costs nothing remove the left hand grip move in the levers and twistgrip and have a go. We used a pair of expanding plug type bar end stops until the grips were back out to the bar ends, these work well but you can get debris down the twistgrip barrel so maybe a need to remove and clean after a mucky trial if the bike has been dropped. The Tomasselli bars that Beta fit as standard are a little narrower than Renthal anyway. Have you tried tipping the bars forward or moving them backwards to see if it makes all the difference.

I am following this with interest as I am building a Cub at the moment, OTF mentions the air filter flow rate can make a difference so which air filter is the best. Some people fit the gauze cone type others the alloy Miller one with the paper element filter (I think this is a car filter cut in half) but surely unless there is a decent splashguard around it the paper type will get wet and give trouble so what filter do we fit to a trials cub. Steve+Cub sorry I am unable to help good luck with the bike.

Subira the Mont looks the real deal superb, I always fancied a 315r but never did get one. Right now I have a 250 Rev 3 which is a brilliant bike.

I fitted a tubeless IRC with tube to the back wheel of my 325 Sherpa it has 2 security bolts in the Akront TC rim positioned opposite each other. There is a little bit of tyre creep (rotates around the rim slightly) but overall it works very well. Woody do you by any chance have the security bolts at 90 degrees to each other so leaving a lot of rim unsupported. The main reason for me buying a tubeless tyre was non availibility of tube type when I needed one.