carl ekblom

You may move the ignition plate in slotted holes, but for precise adjustments I guess you need a strobe light. Mine is set accordingly to their spec and my bike runs well. See https://www.dropbox.com/s/zcfoxs3bbdzit58/STK-154.pdf?dl=0

Electrex say they have some advance curve built in. See https://www.dropbox.com/s/zcfoxs3bbdzit58/STK-154.pdf?dl=0 Its only for Femsa flywheels.

I got one since May/June. No problems at all. Works perfect. / Carl

It sounds like the ignition is busted, but it was running "beautifully" before the diesel treatment. I guess you have tested a new spark plug. Is it electronic or points ignition? / Carl

I would add that an Electrex World ignition is well worth the money. Also check the clutch. Inmotion clutch plates work well.

Thanks, I assume that a hub with steel sleeve would be better brakes as chrome has lower coefficient of friction than steel I have a sheet of this friction material that I will try later People are sometimes using it for classic motorcycles. /Carl

Hi, I need better brakes on my 199A. Engine is superb but the brakes ....... Feetupfun, Do you know if the Alpina front hub you mention got a steel or chrome liner? /Carl

This is the jetting for PHBL 26mm that I´m currently using: Pilot 30 Needle jet K266 Needle D56 4th groove Main 105 Throttle valve 60 Low and mid throttle is as good as it was with the Mikuni but I get some more revs from tne engine at top end and it feels sharper overall and there is no dribbling. Both the Mikuni and Dellorto are way better than the original Bing Adaptors for both carb inlet and outlet must be made. Do I have to say that I stay with the Dellorto

Hi, It runs OK at the moment but it is really not sorted out yet. If you like I post the settings later when I think I got something to share. /Carl

Hi My 199A runs quite well with the following jetting (26mm VM carb): Needle 5C23, throttle 2, main jet 140, idle jet 30, needle jet O3, needle first groove from top. The problems with dribbling VM carbs are well known (see Beta forum). This is why I´m now testing a Dellorto PHBL. /Carl

I think it was Paioli forks on the 2007 Scorpa. Perhaps harder fork springs for Beta or Sherco will fit as they all used Paioli, or you can make them custom. I think Racetech will support in that www.racetech.com. /Carl

Outstandig! Thanks. /Carl

Sorry, no skiing for me but I know the area around Sälen is very popular. Best time of the year would be when days grow longer Feb-April. Lots of people end of Feb due to winter vacations. I guess Mars is best. https://www.skistar.com/en/Salen/About-Salen/ http://www.skiresort.info/ski-resorts/europe/sweden/ Speaking English wouldn´t be any problem at all. /Carl

The main jet is shared with many other types of Mikuni carbs so they are not difficult to obtain. Std size should be 127. I use 125 at about the same alitude. /Carl

Well, I have to look into that. Meanwhile you can have a look at very good rider Martin Kroustek using the factory silencer. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VZEF_fHC8ho Carl

All my old X11 (tubeless) are sent for recycling so I´m not able to measure. An inner tube is about 0.7kg. On my pre 65 Royal Enfield I feel that IRC may not be as good as Michelin on stone and rocks but feels more stable sideways so the result will be about the same. Considering the weight difference I think IRC is an attractive option, specially that tubed Michelin not is available anymore. By the way, IRC is good at moss when wet. Perhaps better than Michelin. Are there still issues about tubless IRC? Carl

I did some measurements of rear tyres. Here is the result. Michelin Competition tubed type, used but OK: 5.7kg Michelin X-light new: 5,8kg IRC TR011R tubed type, new: 5,0kg So, X-light isn´t so light....anymore. Carl

I am not shure a 4 stroke would produce more heat than a two stroke. Compression is higher and efficiency is better so for a given power output it ought produce less heat. There might be dust or dirt or something that block the airstream through the radiator. A visual check would tell. There are some strange cooling fluids around. I use battery water and 40% of anti freeze. No problem at all. But, if the bike runs well I guess the most likely fault is the thermal switch. And yes, the fan is quite noicy. Sometimes annoying. Carl

I think the 2 stroke impeller is wrong direction and may make things worse. I would check the termo switch and the air passage through the radiator. I have the factory titanium silencer and the fan never runs all the time. Bosi silencer should be about the same. Carl

This is not my bike but it´s nice

Carb has been flooding (I think It should be Dellorto VHST on your bike). Crankcase is full of fuel Check the float and float valve then take the spark plug out and do a large number of kicks to dry the engine. You may also have to clean the spark plug.

I think the rear end sag should be approx 80mm with you in riding position on bike measured vertically between rear mudguard and wheel spindle. The front end sag should be something similar. That is close to 50% of total travel and should be about right. I have seen that people often recommend 40-50%,of travel but I feel that 40% makes the suspension too stiff and insensitive.

I had to set the points gap to 0,3-0,35 mm to be able to get a correct timing of 2,5-3mm.

For soldering cables I use a 2300W hot air gun. Try to keep the airstream concentrated at the nipple and avoid heating the wire. So far this is the best method I´ve been using. 60/40 led and correct flux is a must.

If the idle is set too low it will be very difficult to start . A new plug and turning the idle stop screw anti clockwise by half a turn (or so) to increase the idle may help. /Carl