carl ekblom

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-MAGURA-73-74-CLUTCH-LEVER-BULTACO-HUSQVARNA-MAICO-SUZUKI-KAWASAKI-YAMAHA/163239949249?hash=item2601dbf3c1:g:gcoAAOSwOttbo7mg There ia a small setscrew that allows you to do adjustments, however position will not last for ever.

I have been told that the fork tubes first are hard chromed then are DLC coated https://www.ionbond.com/ https://www.oerlikon.com/ecomaXL/files/balzers/oerlikon_HQ218EN_Motorsports.pdf

Grips are also important. I like these https://www.splatshop.co.uk/rqf-grips.html. I believe grips should be as thin and simple as possible for ease to grip the handlebar and levers. May be important for people who don´t have very big hands Carl

RN12YC is a soft resistor plug. I use for trials riding N11YC (ignition Electrex World). No problem at all after 3 years and the same plug. For trail type of riding I probably try a cooler plug like N9YC (or N7YC) Also use for trial 1,5% (1/67) oil. I guess that harder riding need more oil. Perhaps 2% (1/50). Carl

Agree, S3 steel Hard Rocks

Preignition/pinking?? Take cylinder head off and clean combustion chamber and top of cylinder. No soot or deposits is allowed after cleaning. Check carb settings. and clean all jets and and drillings in carb body. Check ignition setting. /Carl

26mm is internally engine side. 26mm is Mikuni common practice on these engines. I think this carb came from francetrialclassic.com. I bought it unused together with an 199A. No problem with starting. Once started it starts first kick. I think there is something with the float valve hanging after a week stand still. Carl

I don´t have my own computer now (with all data), but I think this is correct Sherpa 325; Mikuni 26mm Main 160 (or 150?) Idle 25 Needle 5C23, top notch Needle Jet O3 Throttle Valve 2,0 May not be perfect but engine runs well. After Mikuni-Dellorto-OKO I am now back with Mikuni. All have their pros and cons With Mikuni must tap the float chamber with a small hammer to get fuel into the carb after a week stand still Carl

1,5 degree rake at the yokes increase wheelbase approx 20mm and decrease trail the same amount. Less trail is generally considered to make steering quicker but more unstable when straight running. Old british bikes often had a 27 degree steering angle. This man modify an OIF BSA frame to 21 degree.

If Bultaco 199A have had parallel yokes the trail would have increase from 70mm to 90.4mm. Bultaco Sherpa yokes have 1.5 degree rake. I also have a 199B. It has a steering angle of 27degrees As far as I know modern bikes have parallel yokes, approx 60mm offset and a steering angle of 20-22degrees. 199A has 24.5degree steering angle and a total offset of approx 80,4mm (result is strange steering)

Mikuni 26 is a good overall performer. OKO 26 will give you more top end and 1000(?)rpm more but perhaps Mikuni is slightly stronger in the bottom. Both of them have a soft power delivery. I like the OKO About Bing I don´t know

That is the narrow engine and gearbox. That´s good. As far as I know any bullet frame will fit. Post 1955 frames are prefered by many but should be narrowed around the seat. I think you also can tuck in the engine/gearbox in a Crusader frame. For ground clearence the oil filter extension at the timing cover can be cut away.

1,5 degree rake at the yokes equals approx 20mm offset at the front wheel axle

As I understand any pre 65 fork would be eligible. I have friends using Royal Enfield leading axle forks in Scotland. I think Triumph/BSA 4 bolt forks came in 1971 together with the conical TLS front brake

That particular gearbox was used on Bullet 1949-1954. Older gearboxes were different and later are of the wide type. Works bikes perhaps had a different gearing inside? You can use a small engine sprocket to lower the gearing but kick starting will be heavy. If you use crankshaft axle p/n 32309 it is not very difficult to make your own single chain engine sprockets but you probably need a special clutch for the same chain size I am not sure but I think gears inside are the same pre-55 and 55+. Must be checked.

Can be that the automatic valve lifter mechanism is stuck. Happened to me?

I have been thinking of buying one. I want to transport two bikes and they run really good. But is there a reliability problem? Will the maintenance be very expencive?

Perhaps identification of the mould plugs?

http://www.motorsyklisten.com/

Looks OK to me

I don´t know about your forks but there can be a short spring working in the opposite direction preventing problems with bangs when fully extending the forks. Ought to be some form of device, hydraulic or mechanical.

I use Castrol Filter Oil Spray. Have done so for at least 10 years. It gets very sticky and will effectively stop dust and particles. I have found 1 Not to use too much and only at outside of air filter. 2 Let it dry before starting the engine. If wet it can be sucked into small passages in the carb and make problem. I spray the day before I go out with motorcycle. I think it is a very good product but takes some care to use.

Interesting. Thanks

About the countersunk screw....When rounded sometimes you can take a hammer and bang in a torx bits. Not perfect but can work.

To get correct setting I use steel lock nuts (not nylock). Locking wire is not needed. Much easier.