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carl ekblom

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Everything posted by carl ekblom
 
 
  1. Had a discussion with a number of Bultaco experts some time ago about possible shades of Bultaco blue. It ended "there is only one known Bultaco blue from factory". Different shades of blue seen on old colour photos is possibly due to agening photos. This is good for me unless someone has different and more correct information. My remark is RAL5015 suits well (or perfect) and it´s easy to find https://www.ctborracha.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/3-RAL-to-Pantone-Conversion.pdf
  2. Agree👍 They are surprisingly durable. A replacement is not the first thing I would look for. Go for the Domino and as said previously, do not overtighten the bolts.
  3. https://s3parts.com/en/footrest-and-parts/173-trial-footrests-s3-hard-rock-steel-8435645010398
  4. https://www.splatshop.co.uk/s3-hardrock-steel-footrests.html You may find similar from Jitsie
  5. Think you need weld on brackets for the footpegs in mention. Most people feel comfortable if they move the footpegs slightly rearwards and slightly downwards. Slightly is up to a couple of cm. I like the S3 steel ones. S3 steel footpegs are reasonable light and are long lasting
  6. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High-density_polyethylene "HDPE is resistant to many different solvents, so it cannot be glued. Pipe joints must be made by welding"
  7. 199A head steady is not a good design. Mine has been broken for at least one year now. Seems to work well nevertheless. Best is of course to loosen all necessary bolts and retighten to avoid extra strain after assembly. For my 199B I have made a new and better design but not tested yet.
  8. As far as I know, usually no major problem with PWK. Splatshop are good at carbs and have spares,,jets etc https://www.splatshop.co.uk/performance-parts/keihin-pwk-spares.html
  9. Also check you don´t have an air leak.
  10. It might be residues from air filter spray that follows the airstream into idle system and get stuck. It is not dissolved in clean petrol. Some people use Carb-Cleaner to dissolve. Have no experience of that liquid. When blowing, should use well filtrated HP-air. The passages are very small in the idling system so it can be difficult to clean. It happens it is a nightmare. Perhaps you should concentrate on cleaning the carb body and buy a new jet. As jets can be dirty from factory it is best to have it ultrasonic cleaned before assembly. For safety´s sake, HP-blow the jet after the Ultrasonic cleaning. Is it a Dellorto VHST or Kehin PWK? My last carb-cleaning-nightmare was approx 8-10 years ago with a Mikuni (original) on a Beta evo 4t. Eventually a man (not me) fixed it.
  11. To me it sounds like you have a problem with dirt in idling system. Not easy to clean. Must take everything out from carb and carefully blow and clean. Remember to blow and clean all drillings and passages in carb body. After only use a good, clean and oiled airfilter and change often. As I see it, dirt in idling system is one of the most common problem in a dirt bike. If problem is only at certain throttle openings I would say it isn´t the ignition. Ignition problems is most often at all throttle settings.
  12. Accordingly to this list https://cemoto.tripod.com/list.html 199B started in May 1981 and ended ? Numbers should be 12876-14653. It is unclear when production ceased. Some sourses say in 1983. Rumours say the workforce assembled the last bikes from remaining parts https://cemoto.tripod.com/photos/blue.jpg
  13. Also check the chrome inside the brake hubs are intact. Some brake cables are very tight and does not slide as they should, but RH brakes are poor. Engine and frame numbers can be found here https://cemoto.tripod.com/list.html
  14. The sealing is often (always?) made of radial type seals . This is possible because differential pressure is low and speed is moderate Pic 1 is the scraper side. Facing upwards. You also have a separate dust scraper above this. The spring is there only to make scraper effect better. Totally there will be one dust scraper and one oil seal. Your oil seal has one scraper side and one oil pressure side Pic 2 is pressure seal side. Facing downwards. Oil pressure pushes the lip harder against the stanchion. The spring gives an initial sealing pressure Some radial seals doesn´t have a scraper lip. Take the dust scraper away every month or so, and clean under (above the fork seal). This may prolong oil seal life Put some grease (or similar) on the retaining ring to prevent rust The retaining ring is above the the oil seal and hold it in place
  15. The pressure in in the lower leg on a normal fork so the seal should seal downwards. Looks to be OK in the first photo. I recommend SKF (original at newer evo) fork seals. To protect the seal from damage (easy to do) cover the all sharp edges with some electrical tape and grease or oil the stanchion and tape before assembly. The guy in the movie clip seems to do it correctly
  16. I agree with turboforall but would add: You must test different bikes and find out which one you like best A good dealer and spare parts supply is also important. Then find the best deal for a bike in good condition. No barn find
  17. I think the Mikuni VM was quite good for my 199A. However, might need some fine tuning, and adjustments to float level, as I always had problem with sudden engine stops when going slightly downhill. The sound indicates too rich mixture at low throttle setting, but runs well. And the Air Screw is on the right side😕 OKO (mid-atlantics) sounds good and runs good. I found the airfilter (inside air box) and connection to carb to be important. I use OSSA tr80 airfilter and a small platic tube inside the air box rubber as a connector to get it all working. The OKO has idle and air screw to the left Let´s see later next year if I still prefer the OKO If you test, pay attention the OKO is flat slide. Make sure it is permitted if you want to compete.
  18. Idle 30 Main 140 Needle 5C23 Needle jet O3 Throttle valve 2 Basically as it came from France Classic Trial Yes, it runs rich at small throttle setting but needs choke when starting from cold If changing to 2,5 throttle valve I guess the needle and needle jet has to be changed but have not tested. Now runs OKO
  19. This is what I used for 199A Idle
  20. Needle JJH All jettings for 199A and OKO quite cold (late autumn) Basically the Mid-Atlanics jetting
  21. Tried different PHBL combinations. This is one of the latest Idle 25 Needle 266K Needle jet D36 Throttle 60 Main 115 Thought first it was very nice. Strong mid throttle and full throttle Later found out it was little weak at low throttle. Perhaps PHBH is more all round. Also more period. OKO or Mikuni for Bultaco is more all round. Today OKO is my first choice. However OKO may not be permitted for competition everywhere. But flat slide is period
  22. As Sherpa325 says you must find out "what is wrong with what" before trying to rectify it. If you suspect the Dellorto, test OKO. Pay attention to the air filter and how the carb is connected to the air box. I found out this is very important OKO can be bought here http://www.mid-atlantictrials.com/Bultaco.html Edit Spelling error
  23. Prehaps these fit https://www.inmotiontrials.com/product/front-stainless-spoke-set-yamaha-ty-125-175-250/ or these https://www.bdi-production.com/en/wheels/2514-yamaha-ty-steel-front-spoke-set.html
  24. I think you have a fuel delivery problem.... somewhere..... perhaps inside carb, but always good to replace the spark plug after long standstill. Use plug accordingly to manual. Nothing else.
 
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