carl ekblom

Engine is probably OK as I see it. Avoid putting the bike into flames when kicking with spark plug out and lots of petrol in the engine as you might need more of it. When attempting to start you often need lots of throttle. If engine seems to run OK it is most likely OK and no harm done, but you may have to check you float valve for defects and of course your float level

Any Alkylate petrol would be about the same. But Aspen is one of the oldest and best. They also produce high octane racing petrol (Aspen+ and Aspen R) Think Aspen is looking for distributors worldwide https://www.aspenfuels.com/contact/become-a-dealer/ As fas as I know, their main business is chain saws and garden machinery

Alloy or Copper washer would be ok. But you should inspect the mating surfaces for scratches and dents. And also inspect for cracks because if correctly assembled this would rarely happen.

This link was remowed from my previous posting https://trialsguru.net/ajs-matchless-trials-singles/ No censorship today

You may have a look in Don Morley´s book "Classic British Trials Bikes" (found mine at ebay) Be aware that an original bike perhaps not will be competitive nowadays. Some people start with an engine then build a complete trials bike of suitable parts which I think is the correct way to do it. Don´t take a nice original bike apart. Leave it as it is. Accordingly to me the cheapest and easiest way to classic trials is to start with a classic twinshock from the 70´s. A good classic pre 65 will easily be 2-3 times as much.

If plug is too hot it may cause pre ignition and pinking if very much too hot the plug may melt down. If too cold carbon will build up at electrodes and perhaps start to misfire. If very much too cold sparking will stop and engine stops. Combustion process and cylinder head temperature does not change until something bad happens. Lean mixture and retarded ignition may increase engine temperature. If very bad engine may melt down. Always start with manual specifications and importer instructions. If they say a hotter plug is needed. Use that plug This is after 4 years in my 199A. I crashed (dropped it at the floor) the plug some weeks ago when I for some reason had to take it out. Plug is Champion N11YC. Difficult to get a good photo

A hotter plug will not change the combustion process but will change the temperature of the plug (hotter). Use plug accordingly to the manual and importer instructions. If you run Alkylat petrol like Aspen combustion would be cleaner. You may start with Aspen 4T and mix yourself, but give it some time to clean the engine https://aspenfuel.co.uk/

https://www.jitsie.com/en/gloves/55076-gloves-g3-core.html Large is approx size 9.5-10 Think all major brands have some

https://messageboard.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=10467&sid=b33f42fcef174e6272e0caebe1385cd7

"Fan appears to come on and run as it should, then after pottering about for 5-10 mins it starts to steam and spit coolant out of the breather pipe. All hoses are hot so pretty sure circulation is OK." A leaking barrel/head joint can give those symptoms.The joint must be 100% tight under the gas pressures when the engine is running If your head is from a smaller engine it might increase the compression. Perhaps not what you want. A GG300 is a hefty bike to ride My guess is that there was a problem they tried to rectify with an other head while it might be the barrel that was distorted after overheating. It shoud be very difficult to read a plug with modern fuel and modern 2-stroke oil. I would check the jetting, air filter and the condition of the carb

This man use a plastic bag to protect the seal Edit: Spelling error

The black coating is a sort of DLS-coating. Very hard and has low friction. Under DLS you often find hard crome on stanchions. I do not remember which year Beta started putting SKF-seals in their forks but SKF-seals should fit any Evo and possibly(?) also Rev. I have SKF seals in my 2009 4T. Very happy with them. Innteck have dimension lists In order to make the seals sealing properly the stanchions must be in good condition And, it is easy to scratch the seals. To avoid this you can: 1 Put the seal(s) on the stainchion first with protection from tape(at the end of stanchion) and some oil 2 Put everything into the lower leg. 3 You may have to make (or buy) an assembling tube to press the seal into the lower leg. In fact I think it is needed. Sometimes if leaking, cleaning the seal between the sealing surface and stainchion will help. You can do this with a thin deburred feeler gauge. Use oil to lower the friction when doing this. Afterwards, the forks must be aligned properly. Also make sure your lower legs not are severe dented but this of course has nothing to do with leaking seals. DimensioniSeals.pdf

I have replaced the bloody "All Balls" seal today with "Ariete 012" which I hope will have lower friction. The All Balls dust scraper remains. Original are 2 fork seals and one external dust cover but no locking ring. For me, one fork seal, spacer and one dust scraper and still no locking ring. It has worked for me before. Perhaps the locking ring isn´t needed but I would like to see one above the fork seal for safety´s sake. I have several SKF scraper rings but they are 47.8mm and some turning is needed to make them fit properly. The fork seal from "SKF Kit 35M" would fit but they are expensive. Hoping the Ariete fork seal is a cheaper alternative. Unfortunalely I have no SKF fork seals lying around today but will be interesting to find out about the cheaper Ariete option. Perhaps the original two fork seals are because of the not very effective external dust cover🤔 If I had the dust cover instead of a the more modern dust scraper ring i think it would be good practice to clean under the dust cover after a some hours of running.

You really don´t need two seals/leg. One quality seal (like skf or similar) is adequate, but you may have to manufacture a spacer for the missing seal. I have found "all balls 35mm fork seals" to be not good at all. Life is OK but the friction.........🙄 Benefit is lower friction (not all balls), which is needed on these old forks As far as I can remember the seals are 35x47x10. They don´t need to be 10 but a spacer might be needed. A spacer can med machined from an oil resistant plastic. Make sure you don´t damge the seal when assembling. That is very easy to do (yes I know😢). The stanchions should be in good condition otherwise they may leak. Leaking seals can be cleaned between the seal and stainchion by inserting a deburred feeler gauge. Some x-tra life can be gained, but only if the stainchion is in good condition

Inmotion have new tanks. I guess the tank toolings are from the days before proper markings https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resin_identification_code so you won´t find them, but I am quite sure they are made of HDPE https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High-density_polyethylene. You can´t glue or weld the crack but must replace the tank and they are not very expensive. Any tank should be mounted flexible (rubber) on the frame othervise vibrations can make it crack again. A as far as I know any 5sp 199/199A Sherpa has 3 trials gear and 2 transport gears and an unplesant step between 4th and 5th gear, also has a small uncomfortable saddle and that may not be the best for trail riding. A Sherpa is made for trials competition and not for trail riding. I case of that I think an Alpina would be one better choice.

I have no knowledge about TL125. OHC I think, but I have seen this type of problem several times If you alter the length of the cam chain you may also alter the camshaft timing. You must carefully do all calculations first and always check the timing marks but a degree wheel is better. Also check the cam tensioners. Specially the guide (at the front, engine rotation anti clockwise) It has an impact of the timing and tightness of cam chain. Geting a factory manual and see what they say is always good (or essential). Perhaps you can find the correct dimensions. I would skim the barrel to correct heigth and perhaps also have to adjust the compression ratio. I would also check the thickness of the head gasket. A thicker headgasket would alter the cam timing and can make the cam chain tighter If your cam chain have a split link there are pliers that can be used to ease the reassebly. I think it is a matter of getting things as the designers wanted it to be from the beginning, but with some extra cc

Yes, an electronic ignition is the solution. Less worries for many years,specially as I think lot of modern replacement breakers are out of spec. Perhaps good for other engines but not for old trials bikes.

Not only points gap and timing must be correct, also distance A in picture must be correct. If points for some reason not is correctly made for the engine/flywheel you may end up with a weak spark or no spark at all. Make sure points are within original manufacturers spec.

I don´t know much about NGK plugs but I think N8ES is a non projected plug. A projected would be called BP8ES. A Champion equivalent to N8ES would be N3 or N3C. Even if they are called equivivalent the heat range may differ slightly. RN7YCC is a projected resistor plug and is supposed to be little hotter then N8ES. A non resistor plug would be N7YC(C) You´ll have to find out what sort of plug your ignition and engine require, resistor /non resistor and projected/non projected. As long as the plug doesn´t hit the piston crown I would use a projected plug and even if your ignition is made for non resistor types it may work well with a resistor type plug. I would try a N9YC(C) which is slightly hotter than the mentioned types, or RN9YC(C) if a resistor plug is prefered. In my Bultaco 199A I use N11YC which is the next step hotter. I think NGK should be BP5ES (N9YC) and N11YC is close to BP4ES As the RN7YCC didn´t hit the piston I think N9YC also would clear the piston crown but you´ll have to look, for safetys sake. Only applies for projected types of all brands. The idle mixture screw only affects the idle. My guess is your plugs have been too hard/cold. A softer/hotter plug would clean better. When you have find the correct plug you don´t have to replace it for normal altitude changes. Only of you suddenly start to ride very hard or vice versa. I f you go for Champion plugs, try to find NOS with big electrodes. I am a strong believer that they were better and lasts longer. As always: Start with what the manual says but your engine is nearly 20 years old and petrol and spark plugs have changed during time. Led in petrol had to go when the catalytic cleaning came but all of us (who are older than 20) have led in our bodies from led-petrol burning. You may use alkylate petrol like Aspen for safety and health but it will be difficult read the spark plugs. The only downside is that it costs more. https://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/ https://aspenfuel.co.uk/

Yes, I think you should give the carb a thoroughly clean. Not only the jets,but also all passages. Blowing with compressed air is not bad. I have a filter in the blow line to make sure the air is clean enough. You may need a set of new trials tyres. If you think to use an inner tube for the rear you have only one option.....IRC. For the (tubed) front you can use IRC, Michelin or Dunlop. Lot of people use IRC at the rear and Michelin at the front.

Don´t buy any chep ones at Ebay from China. I tried but never got anything. Just promises to send. I tried to get this seller ruled out from Ebay but it was too late for that Ebay said. Not much money but I don´t like this type of criminal behaviour. Buy from a reputable european dealer. If there is any malfunction, he will replace it or give you the money back. I think Ebay is good but I will never, nerver, ever, again buy anyhing directly from China.

I am now on my 4th year with Electrex ignition (199A). No problem at all. It has been fit and forget. With a new set of points it was permanet struggling. The new points came from Spain but timing was very difficult and the abscissa distance were not correct. Abscissa distance is the distance between the poles at the coil and the angular distance to the magnetic poles in the flywheel. The Electrex ignition has been well worth the money I assume other brands would do the same but it will be Electrex on my 199B.

Boots are also a safety device. If you are serious about trials riding. Get yourself a pair of proper trials boots. You won´t regret it. Some are little cheaper then others.......like Wulfsport, or to keep cost down perhaps you can find a pair of 2nd hand that are OK.

Have a look at Jawa/CZ or MZ hubs. Some of them are pre-65 aluminium and nice.

Betor will give you som degree of "progressive damping" Something that Kent Öhlin and others started to avoid more then 40 years ago.