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dgshannon

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Everything posted by dgshannon
 
 
  1. 1) The tickover modes are separate maps in the controller. To have it on a 2021 would require being able to install/change new maps. To date, I have seen nothing around the ability to do this after the bikes leave the factory. Montesa provides for map changes on the 4RT, so it would be cool if EM allowed the same. 2) You can get the factory button from your EM dealer. However, if I were to add one, John at Kauila Motors (kauilamotors@gmail.com) has one that is a small, single-finger, lever instead of a button. To me, using your index finger to pull a trigger, rather than your thumb to push a button, is a far better solution. Plus, the one John sells is considerably cheaper.
  2. I didn't snap till just recently that the audible sound is different for each map. I am going to have to pay more attention and learn which is which, rather than peaking down at the light color.
  3. I saw a video, just yesterday, of a user demoing tickover. The map button has moved to the left handlebar, and if I understood correctly, there are twice as many map options. 3 without tickover and 3 with. First click was normal 125 mode, second click was 125 with tickover, etc. What tickover does is simulate idle. With it turned on, you MUST pull in the clutch to stop, just as with a petrol bike. Essentially, it just spools up the electric motor a bit so that it cannot drop to zero power out. You could take your hand off the throttle and idle around as you would with a running engine. It might be nice, but I don't think I am going to lose sleep over mine not having it. For a fresh convert to the bike, it is a shock when you first start learning that turning the throttle fully off immediately stops forward momentum. You just sort of learn not to go totally back to zero, unless you want that.
  4. Very curious to here about that, as well. I am hoping that EM gets into supporting controller updates. Montesa allows you to flash a new map to their fuel injection. Nice if we could flash new features (such as Tickover) and maps, to ours. For example, I really have ZERO use for 300 mode, but it would be nice to have a map sitting between 125 & 250 mode instead.
  5. Even with the Race models flywheel weights, there is essentially no engine braking. I thought that might be a big concern on downhills, but the brakes are so incredibly good, it is not an issue. Different than engine braking, but in the same vein, is how quickly rolling off the throttle stops forward momentum. A petrol engine will fire, Sith some authority, several more times after you roll off the throttle. Not so with this bike. Turn off the throttle and the motor output follows IMMEDIATELY. Very much an adjustment curve. Especially for things like double-blips, for crossing logs and such. Surprised you could see enough of the 349 to identify it! That is a 1982 that I just finished restoring. Restoration Video The Sherpa is the bit more rare, in the US anyway, 1976 Model 158. The SL350 is a 1973, with 2,700 miles, from a barn find estate sale! Mind blown when I found that one. Not in the photos is my 1970 SL100, that I have owned since new, I am currently in the reassembly steps of restoring it.
  6. Here, we spin more often due to being too dry, more than too wet! 🙂
  7. You can drill out the tube cap, if it is closed.
  8. After an excruciating wait, my 2021 ePure Race arrived last week. First real outing last Saturday at our practice area. Just an amazing bike. Coming off a Cota 300RR, there is certainly a learning curve. You only think your throttle control is good until you get on one of these! Instant torque is a thing to behold.
  9. Hoping mine looks as good, when it comes time!
  10. Did you ever find a bike? What part of Texas are you in? I am south of Houston. Our club STTA is a good place to start, if you are close by. Shipping is not as horrible as you might imagine. You can take a look at the used bikes at the Tryals Shop. Mike occasionally has some lower cost bikes.
  11. Would this happen to be them, center left of the picture? This was at our rider's meeting that day.
  12. Yes, we do. Rio is not friendly to rain, so that is usually the only thing that prevents us from being out there! That is why you see the link to the rain gauge, that I added to the website. Come on out and join us. I am in Pearland, so we are practically neighbors.
  13. Ever owned one? Once jetted properly, I loved mine. Owned it for almost 3 years. Only reason I went back to 2-stroke Evo was money. You pay more for the 4-stroke new, and then sell it way below value used, due to the smaller number of buyers, that want a 4-stroke.
  14. dgshannon

    Texas

    Muenster is always a fun place to ride...
  15. Not sure the "publicity" is all that good. A follower of MotoGP knows how good Rossi is. That fact that he performs so poorly, on a Ducati, does not translate into a desire for me to own their bikes. Why would you want to go buy a Ducati when one of the best riders in the world cannot make it perform?
  16. Just smear a little castor on your nose. Then you can smell it all you want while still using proper synthetic, in your bike.
  17. Granted. I have done the 4-stroke route. I found the oil filter changes to be far more of a pain in the rear than mixing 2-stoke fuel. Especially, with the Ratio-Rite mixing cup.
  18. Do y'all not have these Ratio Rite mixing cups, in the UK? http://www.amazon.com/Kam-Tech-Ratio-Rite-Cup-150108/dp/B002OQDO4C By far the easiest way. Different scales along the side for fuel amount versus ratio.
  19. "Developed especially for very high revving 2 stroke engines." - Exactly what a trials engine is not.
  20. I run Castrol MTX in mine. http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/2/9/197/12518/ITEM/Castrol-Castrol-MTX--Synthetic-Gear-Oil.aspx
  21. Always amazed at folks struggling to save grams of weight, here and there, and what they will pay to do it. Meanwhile, a lot more weight could be saved, for free, by simply pushing back away from the table, a little sooner.
  22. Owned one for almost two years. Great bike. Rejet on the carb is a must. Opening the exhaust, and removing all the cross brace rods was very worthwhile, as well. The other biggie was a clutch kit from B&J Racing. Made a HUGE difference in the smooth progression of the clutch.
  23. Based on the text, from your link... "If used in lower performance, lower revving engines, excessive deposit formation may result." It does not sound as if it is appropriate for a trials engine.
 
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