dgshannon

All comes down to throttle and clutch control, so the slow throttle would most likely help you out, as would the clutch mod pinned to the top of the Beta section. Feel free to jump to the "dark side" if you like, but you will find that the same throttle and clutch skills apply to all brands.

For $15.95 you can't beat them. Link: http://www.mechanix.com/automotive/fastfit-glove Gave on on purpose made riding gloves years ago, once I found these.

Agree 100% for sure. Advised to use it by a long time restorer/painter of vintage tanks (metal and fiberglass). Used it on my Cota 247, and it worked wonderfully.

The disk doesn't seem to work under Windows (7 at least) either. Rather than let it try and execute, just browse it, and you will see several PDF files. Just copy the version (language) you prefer off to your hard drive. Then you can just open it as a pdf, as needed. Based upon factory recommendations, you would need 66.6 ml of full synthetic to 5 liters of fuel. Here is a hand online tool for calculating premix (scroll down a bit): http://www.speed-sports.com/more/oil.html

So much of this stuff depends upon evaporative cooling. In high humidity Houston Texas, none of this stuff ever seems to work. Imagine success depends a whole lot upon the climate you are using it in.

Agreed. Mine was the 143cc version, and totally blew me away regarding what it was able to do. I think it was one of those great lessons on learning how to "ride" versus getting lazy by depending on an overpower bike to make up for your lack of planning. By no means saying that the bike in on par with my 2011 Beta, but it was very capable, enjoyable bike. Perfect for a more casual rider.

As a general rule... Blue Smoke = Oil and White Smoke = Water/Coolant. Whether a seal, water pump, etc. is sounds as if your coolant is leaking into the combustion cycle. A little at first, but then worse until it stalled, and died. Time to play investigator. For my money, I would start at the water pump.

Be careful on that one. Many car coolants contain silicate, as part of their anti-corrosive feature. That silicate can act as an abrasive in motorcycle water pumps. I have been using the Hondaline HP Coolant (pre-mixed, ready to go.), for years, in a variety of bike brands, including Beta, for the past 4 years. Knock on wood, no problems so far.

Only use super unleaded, in mine. Recalling back to my Montesa 315 days, where mixing 50:50 super to 108 racing fuel was critical. After that, I have never considered anything less than super unleaded, for all my trials bikes. Just felt happy I didn't have to go through finding race fuel. Gearbox wise, I use Castrol MTX, which is 80W, and it works excellent. Really progressive clutch engagement, no drag, etc.

Mine had a rubber cap that went over that tube. It split, and was about to come off, when I saw it. Searched the nut and bolt aisle, at the hardware store, and found a stretchy plastic (not rubber)replacement, that worked fine. If you pull the big black plastic cap off, you can see where the tube would vent into the diaphragm area, when open. As I recall, it was blocked off, and the cap just protected it. Best I could figure, this tube would be used for a multi-carb setup, to interconnect them.

Interesting: http://todotrial.com/ttactual/index-actual-marcototal.htm?

Why do they care? Just trying to force local sales?

I thought I had posted this in every "4T Carb Issues" thread, but I guess I missed this one. These are the starting points for GREAT performance: Pilot jet: 22.5 Main jet: 130 to 135 Air screw: 2 3/8 turns out Needle clip: 2nd slot down from the top (thick washer below clip and thin washer above) Once done to my Beta 4T, the difference was literally night and day.

Can't go wrong. Best bike I have ever owned, by far. I weigh exactly what you do, and their is not even the slightest concern for power. Try riding a Scorpa SY175F for about 18 months. Guarantee no 250 will ever seem under powered!

Young guys have a couple of things going for them, as they develop their skills. 1) Little to no regard for self protection. (Have not realized they are mortal yet) 2) Little to no regard for protecting the bike. (Dad or sponsor pay for repairs) Us old farts think a lot about the cost to repair our bike, our body, and time lost at work while in the hospital, or at home mending. Has a lot to do with the size and type of obstacles attempted.

Exactly my thought, when I first read the comment... 1) How would the organizer know their section layout stunk without the obvious feedback of everyone getting a 5 on it. 2) How did the observer determine that "it was basically impossible for all riders to get up that vertical face without allowing them to back up"? To have been fair with all riders, allowing them to back up, then the observer would have to make that determination before the first rider attempted the section. Not sure that is the observers job. Worse if the observer watched a few riders try, and fail, and only later decide to allow folks to "back up". If so, then that was certainly not "consistent" application of the rules. Neither scenario works for me as a "form of commensence" (common sense).

Don't think so. As the friction plates wear, it should lead to slipping, and not dragging.

You can translate the text, below the video, to get a feel for what they are doing. Basically adjusting for travel after the plates/disks have worn down. Or, adjusting once new (thicker) ones are put in. Translated Text: Beta 2 test model (Techno, Rev-3, Evo2T) how to adjust the clutch. This adjustment is intended to adjust the mechanical play of the clutch disc, master cylinder and slave cylinder, such as adjustment of the hydraulic system is different. Adjustment is performed when a change in the thickness of the disk, etc., when the wear of the clutch disc and a new replacement. With the use of, Machine, friction and wear of the disc progresses, the disk reduces the total thickness of the plate, waiting position by the pressure plate is lowered, riff - and reduces the gap between the master. If this trend progresses, state and always has been pushing the pressure plate lifter, due to the insufficient crimping force, the clutch connection failure occurs.

Electric motors still make noise, and you will get used to the whine. If not, then we will soon wonder how we ever rode without being able to hear the tires gripping the dirt, versus slipping.

Likewise, I am 6'2" on a 2011 Evo 250 2T with the S3 titanium pegs, and the bike fits spot on. Westygas - What do you mean by "too much over the front wheel"? You can roll the bars back in the mounts, to shift your weight back off the front wheel, and onto the pegs. You say you have only been "trialing on it a few months". Are you new to trials as a whole, or only new to the 2011 Beta?

Closing interviews seemed to indicate that waiting for the fuel load to burn down is necessary to getting the bike to turn well.

Had Caswells recommended to me by an old pro at fiberglass tank restoration. After trying many options, his take was that it was "the only thing to use." I sealed the tank on my Montesa 247 with great success, and no follow on problems. Cured up as hard as a rock. But, I made it a practice to always drain the tank when planning to let it sit for more than a week. - Darrell

You want to start here: Pilot jet: 22.5 Main jet: 130 to 135 Air screw: 2 3/8 turns out Needle clip: 2nd slot down from the top (thick washer below clip and thin washer above)

Three open mouth concrete pipes, standing on end, with a girl standing inside each one, and head sticking out. Squat down, and disappear, just as Pat rear-wheel hops, from pipe lip to lip, overhead. The girls stick their head back out quickly, as he goes by each one, in turn.