dgshannon

Mine was exactly the same. The bikes come with jetting that is way too lean, and causes this problem. The carb is the same as that used on the Yamaha Raptor, so you can get parts from the Yamaha shop. You want to start here: Pilot jet: 22.5 Main jet: 130 to 135 Air screw: 2 3/8 turns out Needle clip: 2nd slot down from the top (thick washer below clip and thin washer above) Once done, it was a totally different bike and ran smooth as silk, with perfect idle.

Wow. I am amazed at the seeming disinterest. First, the mysterious French photos (http://moto-montesa.superforum.fr/t5893-la-nouvelle-montesa-4rt), and now Todo Trial (http://todotrial.com/ttactual/pruebas/presMontesa4RT-2012.htm) appears to confirm the photos as the real deal, and nobody has anything to say?

Agreed. The connection to the sport of "Trials" has not been made yet, so no benefit there. If they eventually do make the connection, the dramatic nature of what will be seen on TV will most likely turn off the average Joe, as they will rightly deduce that what they have just seen is way outside the realm of what they could learn to do.

Mikuni make many OEM variations on that CV carb. Never could find the exact model number myself, when looking. But, I finally did figure out that it is the same as on the Yamaha Raptor 660 (it uses two), so I was able to buy spares, and jets, from the Yamaha dealer.

Not as silly as his beautiful sister named Cherry.

When you ride large (500 & 600cc+) singles, you learn a trick that is critical. Before you kick the bike with the intent to start it, push the kickstart through slowly, until you find top dead center. You will feel the bike move into the compression stroke, and then you ease it on until TDC is reached. Then, you kick it through. This allows the engine to spin up some flywheel momentum as you are now actually kicking through the power, exhaust, intake, and finally compression stroke. Going through those first 3 cycles first, before hitting compression stroke again, really makes a difference. As mentioned in another post above, the Beta (Montesa 4RT as well) does not like to be kicked with aggression. Instead, you just push through nice and smooth. Mine always started super easy when brought to TDC, and then pushed through smooth.

Interesting feedback. I had the Rev4T 250cc bike for about 18 months, and never experienced such a problem. Always ran clean and quiet.

Stoner moves off the Ducati and starts winning more regularly. Rossi, who was winning regularly, moves to Ducati and ceases to do so. It just doesn't seem as if Ducati is in the ballpark the past couple of years. And yes, it does appear that with such a great bike under him now, Stoner is on his way. But, it is still a good while before the fat lady sings, so we will see.

I am sort of leaning toward the idea that a fire hot enough to melt the engine probably didn't leave the frame without damage.

Three days and no replies, so I guess not. Maybe it is your helmet rattling.

With a little over 6 hours and 27 minutes on the bike (based on the feedback diagnostics, to the laptop software) Mike took the bike to the PA Nationals, and proceeded to win the "Senior 55" class on both Saturday and Sunday. Guess that is a pretty good showing for the first outing! Given that the event was a mudfest, Mike reports that the design feature of placing the radiator, fan, and engine behind the downtube gas tank worked great, as all was kept clean and cooling as it should.

The US finally received it's first batch of 20 OSSA TR280i last week. Mike Komer, at the Tryals Shop, decided to adopt one of them as his new personal ride, finally retiring his trusty 2008 Scorpa. With a few days ride time now on the new mount, Mike reports that he is really impressed with the bike's performance, look, and build quality. At this time, there are bikes, out of the first batch, still available. Contact the Tryals Shop (www.ossa-usa.com) or Lewisport USA (www.lewisportusa.com).

Yes, you can see the pup's paws in the upper left of the 2nd photo! The logs do look a bit too much like dog logs... Think I would let the kids eat those.

Also be aware that the Yamaha powered models came in two flavors. Naming was not always consistent, and differed depending on which country they went to, but it basically boiled down to flywheel weight. In the US, I would order the regular SY250, which had a heavier flywheel. What was often referred to as the SY250 Race, or SY250R, came with a lighter flywheel. Makes a big difference in how the bike performs.

The early models are Rotax powered. Totally different animal. Pick up any of the years with the Yamaha engine and you should do fine. I had an 01,02,03,04 and 05. As with every brand, slight changes each year, but none of them a bad bike, and the Yamaha engine is always rock solid dependable.

Looking at my assembled one, I see the bearing cover, and a slight space between it and the collar, with no space at all between the collar and the triple clamp. The space between the bearing cover and collar appears to be filled with a washer that is of a much smaller diameter that the bearing cover, or collar. I am guessing that this is not a separate washer at all, but the "circular ridge" you are describing, machined into the collar itself. If any of this makes any sense, it would seem that the ridge goes down, creating the slight gap between itself, and the bearing cover.

The most immediate difference is engine decompression. When you roll off the throttle, on a 4-stroke, it is immediate. This engine braking can be used to your advantage on sudden transitions to a downhill. Roll off the throttle, and you start slowing down immediatly, even before you get on your brakes. With a 2-stroke, you tend to have to pull in your clutch, and get on your brakes, to accomplish the same. Likewise, when climbing a hill, as you reach the top on a two stroke, you roll off the throttle early, and let flywheel carry you the rest of the way. On a 4-stroke, you dare not roll off early, as engine braking is immediate. Instead, you stay in the throttle to the very top. Once at the top, close the throttle, and engine braking slows you immediatly, just that much earlier than on a 2-stroke, where you must disengage the clutch, and get on the brakes. Maintenance wise, it is really nice not to have to deal with premix, but oil changes are a greater pain, with a filter, or filters, involved. I rode 4-strokes for about 7 years straight. Two differnent brands (Scorpa & Beta) and three different models (SY175F, SY250F and Rev4T-250). Really enjoyed them all, with the Beta being my absolute favorite. Having grown up on 4-strokes, I was a died in the wool fan when the trials bikes showed up. Once switched, I swore that there was no way I would ever go back. But, when it came time to sell the last 4-stroke, one year of finding a buyer turned into two, which turned into three. In the end, an almost flawless bike had to be deeply discounted far below it's value, to get it sold. Once sold, the idea of paying over $1,000 extra for another 4-stroke just didn't sit well. Take a loss on the front end followed by a loss on the back end just didn't make any sense. In the end, I went with a 2011 Beta Evo 250 2T. Took a bit to readjust to the 2-stroke characteristics, but I am super happy with the decision. I am not a big obsticle, aggresive power, rider so that is why I really liked the smooth power of the 4-stroke bikes. The Beta 250 has amazed me in how smooth, and tractable, the engine is. It will lug down super low, and pull hard, just like the 4-strokes would. Just a super engine across the whole rev range. As long as there are 2-stroke engines, like the Beta 250, being made I will be more than happy on a 2-stroke. If I was stuck with only powerhouse monster motors, like many of the 2-strokes, I would be back to a 4-stroke in a heartbeat.

Exactly what I get. Suggests that they ALREADY have the support elsewhere, and the time frame crunch is that they will lose that support, if they don't act soon. So, giving the government one last chance to come through.

You should not have to manually hold it. When pulled out far enough, it should click and stay in that extended position. Sounds as of yours is not pulling out far enough to click, or something is a miss in the mechanism.

As does the OSSA factory website, and every other OSSA dealer website. Got an official version? In fact, the factory site still bills the upside-down fork as a key feature, on the main page. Not exactly sure that conventional is a given on the latest version. Just what has been available, maybe...

My bad. Good catch. Thanks, Darrell

Tryals Shop OSSA site is now online. Link: www.ossa-usa.com

OSSA World is the US Importer. The Tryals Shop was selected as a distributor/dealer, as well as the official source for parts and technical information.

US Importer Website: http://www.ossaworld.com/

80:1 fully synthetic Castrol TTS