stpauls

"Did not respond to lanyard". Do you mean that you have a magnetic lanyard cut-out/kill switch, but when you pulled it off the engine kept running? Or, do you mean that it did not respond to the throttle? Important to be clear, because they would have two completely different causes and therefore solutions. I suspect you meant throttle, in which case my best guess is that the throttle cable was not seated correctly into the top of the carburettor, or that the cable was not seated correctly into the throttle. A third guess is that the throttle cable was not seated correctly into the carburettor slide. Engines have been known to race at full throttle even when the kill switch has been off, but this will have completely different causes and solutions.

A trail bike really, not a trials bike. Not the best bike to start learning to ride trials on. Much, much easier to learn on a modern bike.

GET ON AND RIDE THE BLOODY THING!

A view of the other side of the bike would help.

Two main issues with the rear tanker Shercos. 1. The steering stop chops through/dents/collapses the frame down-tubes - look and you will certainly find! This seriously weakens the strength of the tube and the frame. (Some people had new frames from Sherco, but I guess it still happened again). 2. The tank plumbing is overly complicated. The 2 feet of plastic tubing WILL perish/crack/become porous, resulting in all kinds of weird and wonderful issues, until it is completely replaced with new plastic tubing - perhaps every couple of years. Cheap enough if DIY. Other than this they are good bikes!

Honda TL 125 Q1. Has anyone replaced the points ignition on a Honda TL125 to an electronic ignition system? Q2. Has anyone used a Pitbike ignition to convert points ignition to an electronic ignition system on any other make or model? Thanks

NGK BPR4ES 7222 Spark Plug Copper Core (gsparkplug.com)

"We lack the space you guys have". Exactly.

"Some of these older twin-shock bikes are older than me". Some bikes aren't as old as they might appear. You can buy a Drayton C15/B40/Bantam, which was built last week but is apparently eligible to ride in Pre 65 events. Or, what about a brand new Villiers or Greeves - all eligible too, apparently! If you are considering buying a modernish Monoshock trials bike then the newer, the better, because some spares for the early ones are virtually unavailable and costs for rare spares can soon add up and go way beyond the actual value of the bike.

You could remove the spring from the foot-peg, so that you can fold it up out of the way before you kick it. An extra washer will stiffen it up.

The Beta Clutch Fix works for Gasgas too. Best read the article.

Click on the link and read the article.

Clutches on new trials bikes don't USUALLY drag. However as the bike gets a bit older, many/most trials bike clutches drag when the engine is cold. They usually stop dragging when the engine warms up. But, some will drag when the engine gets really hot, then ease off as it cools down to more normal operating temperatures. It must be due to fine tolerances, wear and adjustment. Have you tried the Beta clutch fix?

I admire your calmness, persistence and restraint.

Most people in the use 99 octane in their bikes, not 95 or even 93. Higher octane = smoother running, quicker response and greater power. Use a much higher octane fuel than 93 and don't worry too much about squish bands. I'm guessing that you are not based in Great Britain? If higher octane fuel is not available in your area, then consider using an octane booster or even Avgas.

Never mind the bollocks. Before you do anything else at all: First SLACKEN OFF the clamp bolts on the triple trees (holding the fork tubes). Then loosen the fork brace/mudguard stay. Loosen off the wheel spindle nut too. Next twist the wheel, while holding on to the handlebars. Finally, when they look about right, retighten everything.

BVM know about this modification.

160cc in each leg W5.

Just done my 1922 Sherco 125. Completely disassembling the entire rear shock system. Checked and lubricated everything. Put it back together this afternoon. The frame seems to be mostly the same frame as yours, apart from the front down tube and likely the engine mounts and a few other brackets. The only roller bearings that I saw were inside of the rear shock eyes. These are sealed with O rings, but I took them apart to check anyway. They were perfect. All the other bearings were just plain linear bushes - no Teflon coatings anywhere. I lubricated them with Red "N" Tacky Grease. Those big "spacers" on the two dogbones don't come out! I didn't need to use a hammer or explosives to get it all out/apart and I don't think you will need to either! If something is seized then spray it with Plusgas or a similar penetrating fluid. Thought: I wonder if electrolysis is an issue with electric bikes?

Pit Bike Black Extra Long Chain Slider. Swing Arm Protector Symoto Chain Guard | eBay

Get yourself a modern Beta/Sherco/TRS 125 two stroke. Much easier to ride.

If you are a novice then you have the wrong bike IMHO.

If you do indeed have both, then why not try them both, then report your findings back here?

How much is the Trial Rider's annual membership for the ACU? I paid around £20. How much is the Trial Rider's annual membership for the AMCA? This year it was apparently £50 so I have not renewed my membership. Another consideration is that the new ACU website is now poor, but, the AMCA website is absolutely awful (in my opinion).

Look for a PROPER Sherpa. Messing about with things is expensive and it will probably be cheaper to buy a genuine, good example of a Sherpa in the long run.