coriolis

Recently bought a 2014 290, and ive had bother with the carburation since getting it. Turns out I have an air leak on the manifold. Ive swapped the manifold itself, as well as the gaskets, and it still leaks. The problem is, when tightening the four bolts, it pushes the rubber gasket out over the top, so I can barely get them finger tight. Tonight I made a new gasket from gasket cork, and that allowed me to nip it up enough. I will test for leaks tomorrow. Just wondered if anyone has had the same problem and how they overcame it?

My friend took his air filter out last night to find quite a lot of what seems to be engine oil in the bottom. The thing is, the breather pipe that comes from the top of the engine, into the airbox seems perfectly clean, and the small catchment tank that is located up by the tank, inline on the breather is also perfectly clean. I don't see any other way of the oil getting there, but it seems strange that the breather hasn't a drop of oil in it. Anyone have any ideas ?! Thanks

Fits straight on. Why on earth would you dent the front pipe?!

Looks to me like it's picked up or seized at some point. Did you check the barrel for damage ?

Sometimes the HT lead can corrode where the spark plug cap screws on. Fixed by cutting the lead back by 10 or 20 mm and screwing the cap back on. Not the most likely cause but worth checking. Also, if I remember correctly, Regulators and CDI units were temperamental back then.

http://www.bosioffroad.it/shop/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=2288&category_id=4&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=58 This is Top Trial Team's answer. You need to cut down an existing mudguard. I can confirm that in my experience, 09 10 and 11 mudguards are all the same. They all break far too easily. I have a black one and they seem much more flexible.

Welding crankcases can be difficult. It can warp them and cause problems with fitment against the other half, and also bearing seating etc. It can be helped by pre heating the cases before welding to help spread the heat dispersion. If you are missing a whole section, it will require a lot of welding to build up the missing area, and this will generate a LOT of heat. If you want to attempt it, I would personally split and strip down the case half. Make sure you find a good TIG welder, and discuss your concerns about warping. On the other hand...that is a lot of work. I would probably look into a way of repairing the hole with, say, a thin curved piece of alloy or plastic and epoxy metal. It only needs to stop dirt getting in. I have a 2012 evo, and the flywheel cover lets loads of water in. I just take the cover off after every trial, or wash, squirt WD40 in, blow it out with the airline and let it dry. I would make the repair on the outside though, as you dont want anything picking up on the flywheel and doing damage.

This is the problem everyone knew would happen. Both rides were, technically, fives. But if you fived every rider that rode in such a way, you would have a ridiculous amount of maximums, a bunch of p@ssed off riders, lower entries, and less spectators. In my opinion, I wouldn't have fived either ride. Simply because it would have been way too harsh, and not a true reflection of the riders efforts. But where do you draw the line? Well that's just it, you can't. Which is why I think no stop just won't work. There is just too much of a grey area. I don't see what was wrong with the old rules. And if they want to change them...why not try something like harsher penalties for running over time? If I rider was given a 5 for running out of time, he or she is damn sure going to do their best to ride the section as fast as possible! Don't get me wrong, I like no stop rules. They work very well in most trials that I ride, but the sections are very different to most world round sections, and the stakes just aren't as high! Just my opinion.

If you are a beginner...then I would suggest a slow action is a good idea. When you say there is no spring return...do you mean your throttle doesn't snap back at all? If so is it definitely the throttle and not the slide spring in the carb at fault?

Put the bike in gear, and slot a short length of nylon rope (in good condition with no loose ends) into the cylinder head. I use rope thats just small enough to go through the hole. turn the basket until it wont turn any more. This is the point when the piston has jammed the rope against the cylinder head. The use an impact gun or breaker bar to undo the nut. Ive used this method countless times and it never fails.

It didn't ! But it had done the SSDT and the Scott, so it was just to treat her ! The bearings I pulled out were actually like new! So a complete waste of time really!

Thanks for the link, its a great bit of information. No they weren't but they would have done given the chance ! ha I actually sussed it out in the end! it belongs just behind the drain bolt in the sump. Like I said, sometimes you cant see the woods for the trees....or in this case, I couldn't see the sump for the sump guard ! ha

We've all been there.....Just rebuilt my 2012 factory 300 after renewing the main bearings and I have a mysterious bolt left over! I can't for the life of me figure out where it goes!! The bolt is an M6x10 with an 8mm flanged head. It also has a copper washer. I believe I have located it in the parts book, but am still non the wiser as to its location!! The only other clue I have is that the head of the bolt looks as though is has dirt on it, suggesting it lives on the outside of the cases. In the parts book it is listed on the same page as the gear selector shaft and drum. There seems to be two options for the bolt, and the number is either 31 or 33. And the washer is number 32. If anyone can shed some light on this, I would be very grateful!! I'm sure the answer is staring me right in the eye, but sometimes you can't see the woods for the trees! Cheers

Its a mega trial. I havent been for a few years though. When I last went, you needed an international ACU licence, which required a medical. So instead, like many others, I just took my normal ACU licence, and played dumb ! As for lights, non of mine worked, or were checked. You just had to have them on. My friend stuck the interior light lens off his van to his number board, and that passed ! I dont know what course would suit you. Many of the sections are BIG rocks. Steps, drops, gaps etc. There is a LOT of grip, and its surprising what you can get up...... if you have the cahonies ! It was a no-stop trial when I rode, but most of the sections required a lot of trick riding....which most observers seemed happy to oblige. One guy let me ride the section again because i crashed, I then three'd it and was given a clean...and a glass of wine ! ha Another did the same because i stalled whilst attempting a flick turn. No wine that time though ! They are very relaxed. I rode S2 that year and found it plenty challenging. I usually ride hard course up to National level here (although VERY badly ! ) ha There was a BIG gap between S2 and S1. S1 seemed scarily hard in places! Randoneur was the easiest course, and would suit begginers. S3 would have suited the better (and braver) clubmen I think. This is all going back over 5 years ago though....so it may all be different now!

I snapped my clutch at the same place on my evo. Went to a car tuning shop nearby and bought a fitting that tightens on with an olive. They are a standard sized thread and was about 2 quid. Just have to cut the old fitting off first so you lose an inch or so of length but its not a problem. Only Bad part is, its not a swivel fitting, so you have to play around a bit to get it to tighten at the right point so that your master cylinder is the right way up when you finish. Oh and the fitting i bought had a concave end, rather than a flat one, so i had a mate machine the end flat on a lathe.

mine did the same. Solution was to buy a beta ! The problem on mine was the pilot jet. They are so small they block very easily. I had to fit TWO filters before the carb to get it anywhere decent. And even then is was a temperamental SOB. If you are running the same dellorto carb, I'd bet it's your problem. My advice would be to ditch the carb and fit a kehin if you can afford it.

I fill the rad up slowly as I find it helps to avoid air locks. Put the cap back on and run the bike until the fan kicks in for a minute or so. Let it cool so the water doesn't blow out and burn you when you take the cap off. Top up as necessary, and then squeeze the hoses one at a time. If the level does not rise when you do this, there is still air in the system. Repeat if necessary until the water level no longer drops. Thats how I always do it and never had any problems.

I agree...no need for rudeness here. I have powder coated all sorts of bike components, and in my experience, I have never had an issue with petrol. I have spilt petrol all over my evo frame and it has caused no problems at all. I even left the bearing end of my swing arm, which I coated myself, soaking in a petrol bath to dissolve the dirty grease. Had no issues there either. Not arguing with anyone here.....just sharing my experiences!

I powder coated my evo forks myself. Fully strip them, and have them blasted, with a fine grit. Be sure to plug them well, to avoid damaging the internal surfaces. I used a zinc primer before applying a high gloss white top coat. Didn't find it necessary to apply a lacquer Power will withstand much more abuse than paint. And I have never heard of any being damaged by the heat of the oven. Also, make sure you THOROUGHLY clean them out before re-assembly! You don't want sand in your forks !

Oh, and thanks for the input by the way. I appreciate it.

On mine, there is an internal plate located maybe half way down the carbon guard. Mine also only has one baffle tube which runs from this point all the way to the rear end, which makes packing with the loose stuff a real pain, because you cant just fill the silencer and end cap separately, and then just stick them together. So sounds like our systems are slightly different. But maybe there is no packing past that point like you say. What I may do is make a new baffle tube that splits, at the point where the silencer and end cap meet to make packing easier. Is this what yours is like?

Ive re-packed the carbon end piece, and the rear part of the silencer that it locates into. However, the front half is sealed by a plate which is spot welded into place in four locations. There is no way of getting to this part without grinding or drilling the spot welds. So on your silencer, you are able to re-pack all the way to the front where it meets the front pipe? And you used just normal packing? I assumed that because the front was sealed, it would be steel wool, like on the sherco exhausts. Or at least like they were when I rode sherco! Interesting. I may drill out the spot welds, remove the plate, repack, and rivsert the plate back into place. That way it will be removeable in the future.

The arrow systems are re-packable, but only the rear half or so. Does anyone know whats in the front half? I'm assuming a wire wool type material? I ask because my system has gone quite noisy, and re-packing has made little difference. I'm thinking of cutting it open and repacking the front half as I think this is the problem. I can weld titanium, so this isnt a problem, I would just rather know what I'm getting into first, before i set to a £800 exhaust with a grinder !! If anyone has seen the inside of one, or knows what's in there, I would appreciate your input! Thanks

Ive seen brown, grey, red, blue, and green gearbox oil....so i dont think its out of the question for there to be a purple one !

I agree. There should be absolutley no need to heat the fork legs !