keychange

I need to paint two Cota 247 bodies. I have done it in the past but results were mixed. I want to do this right and finish off with a very hard, fuel proof, KBS Diamond clear coat. But before I get their I need to use the right pre-coat and top coat. I would appreciate suggestions for both pre-coat that will give me a well attached base that I can sand to a good finish and then a sound top coat.

just mount it on same bolts as coil ...make sure it is cleanly earthed, you may need to scrape some paint off

Lovely job, hopefully the love affair can now begin

mjlyam - yes it came back to me and so a revisited the points wire connection and it wasn't properly isolated - fixed that and all good

Hi Daniel Manual says SAE20 or SAE 30 with 190cc per leg - I reckon most people use ATF ( transmission fluid ) which from memory is around 10 wt. Works for me. Message me your email if you want a copy of the manual Cheers Andrew

I pulled all my lighting circuits off years ago but Pink to earth does not sound correct. The circuit is earthed by the points connection to the magneto base

The standard gearing on TLR is too high - put a smaller front sprocket on and second becomes much more tractable and manageable - in fact first is only for slow down hill descents

The kit I mentioned that KBS supply comes with degreaser and yes you need to prepare meticulously

I have used this stuff on many tanks and as long as you prep correctly it works a treat - get the kits for bikes https://www.ebay.com.au/i/272946991608?chn=ps

A rubber mallet or block of wood

No idea what a Reflex is worth - they are more street trail than trials with smaller forks. A real TLR 200 in good nick is worth well over $1,000 - more like $3,000 in the UK

Went to take my 247 for a run today and for the first time in years she wouldn't start. No spark so started working backwards from the cut of switch ...finally removed the low voltage coils and it appears that I have a short circuit to earth. So it looks like a burnt out coil - strange that it got me home without an issue last ride. Does anyone know the correct resistance for the coil?

ThreeBond is your friend ....let it cure at least 24 hours and it lasts years

When I say "original" I mean copy of original - I have a good quality scanned version for 247C and 247T but each page is seperate message me your email and I will send

Underslung clutch went out on Model 21M19228 on LHS an 21M6700 on RHS ..but according to my original 247 Manual there was never a modification from 4 speed to 5 speed. Your model is 21M .???? - there were 6 variants in gear box from model 21M 0600 - 3750 - 5288 - 6600 -7256 and 21385

This has got to be close - but your post begs the question, why buy a TLR125 trials bike if you want to do more than 40mph https://thumpertalk.com/uploads/monthly_10_2015/post-378290-0-38088700-1446208661.jpg

There are three tank/seat options ( maybe more ). I have the standard trials body as per your photo - the 247T (trail) body with larger tank and longer padded seat and the later model large tank with very comfy seat. The latter requires rubber grommet spacers for he rear mounts but otherwise fits perfectly and is very comfortable.

I had similar experience with my 247 years ago - in mine the idle speed also increased - appeared to be running lean but after many many hours and $$$ on the carbie I realised the timing was slightly too advanced and that was the issue. After no luck with depth guage I used paper timing disk - see attached and had no problems ever since. timing.disc.pdf

The spring has to have some loading on it otherwise it will flop around. The kick start is usually installed at around 2 o'clock rather than vertical. I have only had one spring break and that was when my son tried starting with the clutch in

Normally you can't apply a new sealer over an old sealer and it can be a big job removing the old stuff. Wait until you can see what is there as long as the original sealing job was done correctly it should be fine.

Take it easy in terms of long downhill runs for a few hours...but apart from that standard trials type riding is pretty ideal for engine break in ...but avoid labouring the engine ie: pulling away in a gear that is too high. I would also suggest that you get an after-market compression release - as the starter gear is very vulnerable and difficult to obtain. I run 25:1 and castrol VMX80 in the gear box. Some guys recommend ATF but my 76 model jumps out of gear in every gear and false neutrals everywhere. With VMX it only jumps out for first, occasionally 2nd but no false neutrals. I am guessing that yours is around a 75 model - engine number should tell you.

I have a 247 and could never get a good outcome with 2.5 mm measure (for the 247) - once I switched to using a paper timing disc it was perfect and hasn't been touched in last 5 years.

This small one was on mine when I got it - it protects the case covers but leaves the frame exposed as it is fitted above the frame. I have broken the frame on rocks so I got a guy to cut out a sheet of aluminium plate and I bent it into shape. Problem engine sat lower without original and when I measured it up for new one I forgot to allow for the cases and so I ended up with both. Sorry I don't have a recent shot with both.

https://www.speedandsport.com/index.php/parts/ignition-lighting/ignition-coil/ $18USD - I have one and it works perfectly. It took me 6 months to get my Cota working reliably, very frustrating but that was 10 years ago and it has been fantastic ever since. I haven't touched the points since then either. PS - make sure coil is bare metal to metal earth