smelling123

Hi Andy, ive just built a Bantam and will be using it at Red Rose trials (this weekend all being well). Send me a PM if you want a chat. cheers Stu.

The 'TOR' gloves (on ebay) are neoprene backed. The palms are thin enough and theyre nice and warm. Slightly bulkier than summer gloves but no real problem.

In the UK to the best of my knowledge the only pump fuel that is confirmed by the manufacturer/supplier to definitely NOT contain ethanol is Texacos 'High Octane' fuel. Most other UK pump fuel contains ethanol and loads of my mates with twinshocks have had problems with poor starting (when the fuel is only a few weeks old), fibreglass damage, damage to fuel tap rubbers and filters etc, etc..nasty stuff. The Texaco seems fine.

Aha! yes missed that bit. OK well thats saved

Hi, I notice my rear IRC says 'for off road use only'. I have just registered the bike for the road (to hopefully use in Scotland and any other trials with road work). Do I need a Michelin? I seem to remember people using IRC in the Scotland Classic...

Hi, Does anyone have any info on suitable mods to improve the 175 Bant power with revised port timing. Im from a road racing background but after a quick look, it seems to me the transfer timing is quite short on the standard barrel, particularly for a trials engine. Any ideas folks?

Yep, looks good, I made a similar thing for mine but with a support plate on the outside too. Seems to work well enough although I used ptfe for the 'rubbing bit' and maybe wear will be quick. Since doing this, I have see this on ebay - this would've saved a lot of trouble...for

Got 'half link' from sprockets unlimited.

How old is the fuel? Some of the stuff on sale now seems to go off very quickly.....

Not sure, guess that would be the easiest option. The chain is 3/8 X 7/32.

Hi, Ive just geared my Bantam down using a new engine sprocket. Does anyone have any idea what to do with the chain tension? I cant quite take a link out (its too much) so Im looking at making a tensioner. Does anyone else have similar experience? I used the 14T sprocket. many thanks for any help. cheers Stu

Ive got the Electrex ignition on my D14 175 Bantam. Seems good and well made, nice quality connections etc. The only issue I had was that the ignition has a curve - so it runs retarded at low revs (for easy starting) and at high revs (over 5000rpm to save the engine and allow it to rev on). The problem was that the engine felt 'flat' just off throttle when set at the standard setting (and the setting that Electrex recommend)- it felt like weak carburation but Im now fairly sure it was because at very low revs it was retarded. Ive advanced the ignition timing to around 27 degrees max advance (4mm BTDC) and it seems much, much better. I did a Red Rose trial with it set to the standard setting and had a reasonable finish so its not that bad - just much improved with the extra advance. cheers.

Hi Monty Jon, my dad will probably have one you can have at a low price if that helps, PM me.

Hi, Just wondering if anyone has played with higher comp ratios on trials Bantams. I notice the 1980s Fantic 200s were 11.7:1 (geometric). Anyone any experience of changes? I haven't measured my standard Bantam yet but I think they were about 10:1. Also, is anyone running a different ignition timing than standard? cheers Stu

PJ1 Satin Finish exhaust spray is the best ive ever used. Nice durable finish and it isn't any more expensive than anything else.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Bultaco-Sherpa-340-/280678512918?pt=UK_Motorcycles&hash=item4159be3916 Looks interesting...

Anyone who had done significant amounts of dyno testing on air cooled engines will know that more oil = cooler engine = more power..... We also used 16:1 castor based in classic race engines (air and water cooled), but with synthetic oil they smoke like hell if you use that much as those oils are designed to run less. Good quality synthetics will give excellent lubrication over mineral (or castor based) oils at 32:1 no problem in a race engine. For a classic air cooled trials engine I would suggest 40:1 be a good compromise - assuming a fully synthetic high quality oil such as Silkolene, Putoline, PJ1, Morris etc, etc.

Hi, Ian Bain could probably do it for you (classic racer lives in Hale Bank, Widnes). If you send me a message I will give you his number. cheers Stu

The model number is on the frame and engine. It will be **-190*** if its a 190 for example.

Hi, As far as Im aware the 159 is a fair bit older than 1978. My 190 model is a 1978 and runs the standard setup of 11 front 46 back. Seems fine. Hope this help... cheers

Hi Mate, Putting the choke on richens the mixture - so you can probably assume that if you still need it when the engines fully warm, then the engine is running too weak when warm. This could be a fault (like maybe a worn slide passing air - they do wear badly on those carbs) or maybe could just be adjusted out. The pilot screw (side of the carb)can be adjusted - try screwing it in 1/2 turn at a time to richen it - the standard setting is 1 and 1/2 turns from fully in (so checking it would be a good starting point). You could also maybe try a pilot jet larger - this will only cost a few quid. I have heard that modern fuels can require a richer carb setting... hope this is food for thought. cheers Stu

That explains it, many thanks for your help.

Hi, i have what I think is a 198, the frame number starts with 198 and then some numbers. The bike has the alloy bashplate/no frame rails at the bottom. Am I right in thinking the bashplate model was 198A and 198B? If so maybe mine has been converted - if it has then its a professional job and looks very much like others I have seen so Im not worried but it'd be nice to know. I'd have expected the frame number on a 198A or 198B to start with 198A (or 198B) not just 198... Any ideas? thanks