dadof2

If you fasten a valve stem in with a couple of nuts and sealing washers on the inside and then smear sikaflex or other neutral cure sealer on the valve and all the spoke nipples you can do away with the rim tape altogether. The sealer replaces the rim tape Rim has to be well cleaned first

Fill it from the top and let it drain out of the bleed nipple using bleeding technique if necessary. Once it is bled fill reservoir with sufficient fluid so when you put the rubber thingy in the fluid overflows. You do not want any air under rubber thingy.

0007 #2. The Beta designers have probably got it right as far as WTC is concerned. Moving a large rotating mass with inertia and gyroscopic forces will almost certainly improve the handling by some small but possibly significant at the highest level of the sport. For the clubman the handling improvement may not even be noticeable, then there are the drawbacks. Rev 3s and Evos have pretty tough, cheap plastic cases. The new magnesium cases will be brittle, expensive to replace and prone to corrosion. Having the flywheel outside the windings has over many years proved to be much more durable than the design now adopted by Beta. Dabster # 10. I see you are misquoting me again, you really should have gone to Specsavers.

Just read the article on the new 200cc Radonne, Gasgas claim "the new engine offers more power to overcome any obstacle" so presumably we shall see Raga et al using them in WTC to defeat Bou

MAP sensor measures Manifold Absolute Pressure which is actually a vacuum. I suggest you have a word with Nigel Birkett (Ossa UK)

Find the seal sizes and see if you can get them elsewhere, a set for a car costs less than £10

If your lad knows what he is doing with a multimeter have a look at http://www.trialspartsusa.com/diagrams/DucROOKIE.jpg and see what readings you get. Beep continuity checks are not that useful Static resistance checks are a little better but Proper diagnosis requires the engine to be spun(use power drill) and measurements taken with an oscilloscope.

I think your bike is 68mm stroke and will have a con rod length of about 130mm. With these dimensions 20 degrees advance equates to about 2.7mm BTDC, so if yours is firing at 23 degrees BTDC it is getting on for 3mm BTDC which is about or possibly just beyond the wise limit. I agree that replacing the woodruff key would be a good move. You say the engine is hard to turn. Could a main bearing cage be beginning to fail? If this is the case the crank will run stiff and out of true and affect the timing and possibly cause crank seal leak.

20 years ago I might have laughed at the thought of electric start on a trials bike but now I am not so sure. I looked at as Gas Gas EC300 a few days ago and the electric start system was very neat. As Ossa has discovered making battery free EFI can be a bit tricky. Perhaps the time has come to ditch the bulky / weighty kickstarts and replace them with a motor and battery system. Batteries give a stable voltage that is much more suitable for electronics, cooling fans etc. Overall the addition of a battery may simplify and make more reliable bike electrics. Many riders with worn out knees may appreciate an electric start.

Since the Beta stator support (outer case) is made from magnesium I feel it appropriate to post this Gas Gas warning to prospective purchasers. So there you have it gasgas and beta owners, no river sections and no Uk road (salted) use in winter or your bike will dissolve DATE: 17/JULY/2003 SUBJECT: MAGNESIUM RACING PARTS FOR TRIAL MODEL MOTORCYCLES. SPECIFICALLY: ADAM RAGA LIMITED EDITION “TXT PRO - RAGA” We would like to inform you that because of the special lightweight magnesium parts fitted on this motorcycle, it is necessary to avoid exposure to extreme humidity and especially salt water. Best regards, Gas Gas Motos- Technical department

Independent bearing dealers also have to make a living

I had an 82 490 non RV and it was a very good bike. I also had an 86 490 and it was rubbish - unreliable and fell to pieces, no surprise factory went bust shortly after. I had both bikes from new. A lot of my friends also ad Maicos and the last of the twin shocks and early monoshocks were definitely the best.

If it does not have a pulser / trigger coil to time the ignition I think the CDI will sense when the voltage from the source coil changes polarity and use this as the ignition trigger. All electronic ignitions can develop faults which change the timing and you need to check if this has happened. Mark your flywheel with a mark to show TDC then put a strobe light on to see where the spark is actually occurring. I would expect it to be between 4 and 23 degrees BTDC. post what you find Since the bike won't start you need to take the spark plug out - make sure it is still earthed, spin the engine with an electric drill. It difficult to get a strobe reading just by kicking it over.

I see the new Betas use the outer ignition case as the stator support. Over the years I have broken (and seen other riders break) ignition cases on many makes of bike. I have also see road bikes with this arrangement dropped at very low speed or even stationary and major damage to the stator (and in many cases rotor) has resulted. This design may be good to centralise mass for WTC "flickability" but as a clubman who rides in rocks and has to pay for his own parts I would steer well clear of bikes with this stator layout. Afternarket opportunity for someone to produce a thick cushioned guard?

I was in B & Q today. Response wireless alarm £199. Easy to fit and very reliable.

Set the screw 1.5 turns out. Fully warm the bike up and set tickover very slightly fast. Adjust mixxture screw until tickover is at its fastest then reduce tickover to normal using tickover screw. Mixture screw should be between 1 and 2.5 turns out otherwise jetting or float level adjustments may be needed. Ride the bike and check it picks up instantly and cleanly, if not try adjusting mixture screw 1/8th of a turn either way. That is a VERY brief guide

Lets HOPE the TRS is a good heavy robust bike, not some fall to pieces lightweight codged out of push bike parts. Can there be informed speculation? I would have thought it had to be either informed or speculation.

It is probably fair to say that the FI on the ossa is innovative as afaik it is the first use of crank case injection on a 2t trials that has been sold in reasonable numbers and without knowledge to the contrary commercially viable. You can never be certain it is truly innovative however, the Wal Phillips FI system was tried on all sorts of engines many years ago. Very good Atomant, know anymore? Bent over trials rider with bad back goes into doctors and says "doctor, I've got lumbago" doctor replies snappily "If you don't mind I'll do the diagnosis round here"

Check crankcase is not leaking by making up a fitting for the exhaust hole with a tubeless valve in it. Either blank off the inlet or seal the reeds with grease and pressurise to 5 or 7 PSI. Pressure should not drop. Rebuild carburettor and rig up a separate fuel supply above the carb rather than normal tank. Stator plate or flywheel loose?

Have you got water in increasing oil volume? Leak from crankcase pressure?

Feetupfun - I wondered if someone had fitted a metal backed seal instead of a standard one. I have come across metal backed seals on two stroke cranks and tractor engines / transmissions. They have a higher installation / retention force than standard seals and flex less when there is a large difference between bore and OD.

You over fill the fork with oil Then you need syringe with a piece of fine bore pcv tubing on it. Mark the depth of the air gap on the tube, then insert it into the fork until the mark on the tube is level with the top of the fork. Withdraw oil through the tube with the syringe and when it sucks in air the oil is at the correct level.

My comments are based on MX rather than trials, as since the introduction of monoshocks on trials I have never felt the need to buy a non standard shock. On MX bikes I felt ohlins were no better than standard and under acceleration on short stutter bumps (CR500) worse than standard. The most cost effective and performance gain suspension improvement was to fit the correct springs for my weight and ability and have the damping re valved to suit springs, weight and ability. Bits like low friction seals, low friction bushes and top grade fluid were installed at the same time.

My recollection is that the 250 bultacos of about 1975 - the models with the close fitting rather than rounded primary drive case, were some of the nicest to ride bikes ever made. I never rode a 175 myself but remember them getting poor reviews and no match for the Cota 200. I agree with mike 350. I had a grey import 1979 325 with the blue plastic tank, brilliant bike.

My Gaernes do exactly the same, there are small tears in the thin membrane where its stitched to the leather at the top front of the ankle. If I knew it was going to be a wet trial I used to put polythene bags over my socks, far more comfortable to have your feet warm in damp sweat than soaked and frozen in the first deep beck. I wonder if someone still makes gortex / ptfe waterproof socks for mountaineering, I once considered them but they were horrendously expensive.