dadof2

I see Mickey Oats (Honda dealer Glasgow) has 4 for sale

I am not familiar enough with 311 electrics to know what the voltage would be if rectifier failed. Also it depends on just what fails in the rectifier and if its a combined regulator rectifier. Typically when combined regulator rectifies fail you can get voltage spikes anywhere between 25 and 85 volts, they are not really AC, just spikes. Typically a rectifier consists of a 4 diode layout and only one diode fails, and then only partially. A couple of recent examples spring to mind, a suzukis combined rectifier regulator was failing allowing the battery to drain when parked - this showed clear long duration spikes over 80 V on the oscilloscope. A ford fiesta had all sorts of peculiar intermittent electrical problems, oscilloscope showed many very low duration voltage spikes of both polarities to about 30V. Person did not want to buy a new alternator as car was due to be scrapped in a few months, fitting a large capacitor of a scrap electric motor suppressed the spikes and all electrical faults disappeared.

Easy check is mark your flywheel at TDC (Top Dead Centre) and 23 degrees BTDC (Before TDC) and put a strobe on it. Timing should be about 17 to 23 degrees BTC. If timing varies or is out check woodruff key and stator fixing screws. A loose wire giving intermittent contact can cause the timing to vary and even bike to run backwards.The CDI interprets the voltage variation caused by the intermittent connection as the ignition trigger signal.

If its a Yamaha engined Scorpa it should probably use 20w50 or 10w40 not ATF.

Your symptoms are typical of the piston in the master cylinder not returning fully when the pedal is released. This is usually due to a combination of dirt and corrosion in the master cylinder where the push rod joins the piston. These can be hard to dismantle, the last one I did I had to pump the piston out with a grease gun. When the piston does not return it keeps the fluid pressurised - hence the overheating due to pads rubbing. The soft pedal is because the non return of the piston means the fill port in the master cylinder remained covered and fresh fluid cant be drawn in. I prefer DOT 4 to DOT 5.1 DOT 4 is more viscous and a better lubricant. Unless your reservoir cap and handbook say DOT %.1 use DOT 4 DOT 4 is best changed annually on a trials bike.

Can you undo the access caps on these callipers -need something like a large spline / torx drive tool Get the pistons and seals out then check the pistons move freely in the bores without the seals. Examine the seal grooves very carefully using a dentists magnifying mirror.

To register for off road only phone DVLA at Swansea and ask them to send you the documents In addition to their documents you will need proof of ownership, you should get a certificate of newness with the bike this will enable the registration to be age related (not Q plate or whatever current equivalent is) Once bike has a number and is on DVLA database it should come up on insurers databases and you will be able to put it into insurance comparison websites to get a quote.

Betas because they have bulky (as in thickish metal) aluminium fuel tanks tend to cool down a lot when not in use. This causes moisture in the air above the fuel to condense on the inside of the fuel tank. The moisture then settles out under the petrol and ends up as sludge on the filter or droplets in the bottom of the carb. You could try a fuel conditioner (sold to prevent condensation / corrosion in lawnmowers) or put a small amount of methylated spirits (20 cc per litre) in your fuel to absorb the water.

Expect the voltage from the rectifier to be about 14 to 15 volts DC but it will fluctuate a bit, should show a steady ripple on an oscilloscope.

There are various problems with un registered bikes from an insurers point of view, firstly they will not show on the insurers database (starts alarm bells ringing) and secondly if stolen they are less likely to be recovered. I suggest you register your bike. If you register it for off road only it is free and you never have to bother about VED or SORN. If you tax it for on road use there is an initial registration fee of £50 (I think that is current amount) and about £40 for 6 months VED but you can cancel that after a month for 5 months refund, and put the bike on SORN, I strongly suggest you register your bike, get a V5 registration document then stamp the registration number on as many parts as you can. A set of 4mm stamps costs only about a £tenner from Screwfix or Toolstation.

The calliper in the video does not seem to behave like monoblock / 1 piece construction, it looks like flex in a bolted together calliper, can you provide some video / photos of it from other angles. Your symptoms suggest one or more of following Air in fluid Dirt / corrosion in seal groove Corrosion / roughness on pistons Shaving of calliper bore between piston and bore - shaving / scraping off bore due to pushing piston in at slight angle Unidirectional seal fitted wrong way round.

Engineering factory where I used to work had some black (unchromed) snap on spanners, they had lots of hard use and never wore or broke. Many years ago MCN carried out tests and concluded that Facom and Teng were much better value for money than snap on and in some cases better full stop. I have some Kamasa sockets and spanners that have been in regular use since 1975 and are still near as new.

Cota 348s were exceptionally good for low bore wear, maybe due to the good air filter design. I think the record for old regularly used engines that have never needed re boring belongs to concrete mixers.

So Brown found it hard due to injury and Gubian found it hard to impossible because his bike broke. Well, if you ride a lightweight bike what do you expect. Clearly illustrates the need for a more robust reliable bike and the likely resultant weight increase - the core issue of this thread.

Perhaps you could have got round for 2 or 3 then? I don't think Brown or Gubian found it that easy. My impression, mainly based on watching the indoor trials series is that Bou has raised his game a notch. He just seems to have that few % more confidence and ability compared to last year. Although anyone can slip as he did on the first day I would not be surprised if he goes on to dominate the season by a wide margin.

Its some time since I rode on a Dunlop. I felt it had a bit less grip especially when worn as compared to a Michelin X11 but it was marginal and may have been more to do with familiarity or confidence.

http://www.trialscentral.com/component/attachments/download/1220 Have a look at the above link, older riders and older bikes doing very well

Are you able to restart it immediately or very shortly after it stops? My guess is the reason for stopping and the clank are unrelated. The stopping is probably fuel or possibly ignition related. The clank is probably cam chain tensioner / guide related. It is almost certainly a case of strip, examine parts and replace as necessary.

In the early 1970s I had the pleasure of watching Cal Rayborn on the under powered harley keeping up with and in may cases beating bikes with supposedly much more power. Back to the post topic of power / torque graphs. I reckon about 14 to 20 HP is about right for a trials bike. Graphs would probably not influence my choice of bike but it would be interesting to see comparisons.

Congratulations - where did you buy it. Mont / Honda dealers seem a bit few and far between

thats-a-five - I think you mean Dan

Safety helmet standards All helmets worn on UK roads must either: meet British Standard BS 6658:1985 and carry the BSI Kitemark meet UNECE Regulation 22.05 meet a European Economic Area member standard offering at least the same safety and protection as BS 6658:1985, and carry a mark equivalent to the BSI Kitemark There used to be 3 levels of helmet for ACU events, gold, silver and bronze, bronze was suitable for trials but not speed events. Horse riding, rock climbing and some quad bike helmets do not meet motorcycle standards but I would think no one would notice unless you had a head injury accident.

I would advise against ATF, it is too thin when hot. It is designed for auto gearbox clutches which are not designed to slip to the same extent as a motorcycle clutch. As previous poster says, try different sorts, maybe a 15w40 , 20w 40 or 20w50. You could also try filing small gentle tapers on the leading and trailing edges of the fibre pads on your clutch plates.

Try Mr Wittaker, the garage, Kettlewell, North Yorks (a few miles from start of Allen Jeffries trial) they might still have something in stock or be able to give advice. Until late last year this was run by Bill and Mick Wilkinson, former ossa works riders and ossa stockists. Failing that try Nigel birkett, ossa UK.

CDI: a new timing curve has been developed to optimize power delivery and provide an immediate feeling with the bike. This allows the rider to be comfortable in any situation and condition of land. I previously took the mickey out of Gasgas's claim the Radonne had "power to overcome any obstacle" and in fairness need to point out they are not the only ones making questionable claims. The above quote is taken from a Beta advert / technical description. I can think of plenty of uncomfortable situations where the timing curve will make sod all difference. Why do manufacturers no longer publish output data, BHP and torque graphs for example?