kevin j

what Mik did you use? was it a mono? I put a B&J Mik on a twin shock 250, worked great especially compared to the worn out TK. Like to tdo the same on my mono 350. kcj

I had one welded, the bracket ear, somewhat away from the bore. It worked ok for a while, but only reason I did it was to buy time to find another one. Was a 96 and hard to get parts. Ended up with a Pro takeoff from Mizell as the permanent fix. If you need to, I'd have it welded, but only as a short term fix. Belly up to the bar, spend the $US100+ and figure it's cheaper then MX rebuilding engines. k

my .02 Some sort of standardized measurement is I think essential. When I see signs on the way to TTC of gas at $3/gallon, I assume we both use same defintion of $$ and same defintiion of gallon. Why not have some standard descritpions. An old science adage, if we cannot measure and describe something, we really don't understand it. Who wants to go to another part of the counrty and beat them selves into the ground only to find out intermediate was high instead of just above beginner? I think its a primary goal the USMTA could achieve. I also think it's probably fruitless attempting to standardize and require clubs to fall in line. I would like to see the standard descriptions of classes, descriptions of the types of skills required to ride those classes. Granted, tough to describe, but even vague is better than nothing. Do I need to balance, hop, or back up for this class??? Standard class names would be nice, but rather than argue it out, just assign numbers 1-6. 1 high or 1 low, who cares, but standardize. Like on ski runs or rock clmbing route standards. Local clubs could use any name they wanted, but simply use the number at signup or if questions. I come in as a 2 (almost bottom) rider, what class in your club is equal to USMTA level 2. maybe their sportsman is above 1, but less than 2 etc. Just use the numbers as standard gauge for common language, call it whatever name yoru club wants. Eventually, if the numbers get names, clubs could move to adopt ot not, but at least the common measuring is there. It could help new riders, but mainly help promote people riding at other clubs events. kcj

my kids were in BMX bicycle racing. They kept using their polyethylene bike helmets with face guard. Very light, well ventilated. Not as cool as open, but has the face guard. check out the local BMX bicycle shops maybe. I also bought a screw on face guard thing separately from a BMX shop, tried to fit to my adult trials helmet. Worked, but as I got better I abandoned it. But I vel seen ugly and expensive face surgery on higher clas rider, just practicing, fall in a mild rocky gulch...

I assume you are in UK, but in USA, Wiseco has them. May not list at TY anymore, but listed as DT. B&J also carries Wiseco. kcj

If it's on the internet, my understanding is that it has to be true.

Dan Brown's grandson Joe was learning on one of those Monday morning. 20 minutes from zero, he was riding all over by himself, standing up, and doing great. Definitely better than PW50 for both kids and parents.... I talke with the rep at length, should be late this summer or fall. kcj

I have, TY350, and recommend it. Makes it more responsive, but also more vibration and pounding with each cylinder firing. May be worse in slippy grip situaitons though. Big diference, not as much overrun when you shut it down say at top of a short bank climb. That's main reason I like it. Some take off entire ring, I took off about 40%. I would not take off all of it. I think the ring was about 1.5 inches wide, and about 3/8 inch thick. I turned off about 3/8 inch on inner edge, and 3/8 on outer edge. or, you could take off half the outer surface, all across the full width. My thought was I didn't know the effects of thinning out the radial dimension, hoop stresses, etc, so I took off the sides rather than the outer surface. I can find the exact dimensions, but am headin to TTC tonight for world round. It's not fussy, take off a small amount and see what you think. but personally, I'd not go more than half of it on the 350 at least. kcj

scott: boy does that song bring back memories-now that you bring it up, who wrote or sang and when. I'd like to find it on limewire. kcj

andy, you going to have a TC shirt or somwething so we can recognize you and meet you to say thanks? I'll just take a good look at the avatar and remember. kcj

I considered the 10x20, would make a nice space to work and useful around home. The bulk and weight wre too much for what I needt to travel with. Compared HD, REI, and I think sears? ended up buying the SamsClub cheap line but EZUp brand, the $210 with tyvek walls. Have not set it up yet, nothing to report. tks to all for the comments and info kcj

one thing I like about the plastic pipe is that you can use it like a slide hammer, over the inner tube, and it guides itself absolutely square to the axis of the slider when you tap the seal in. This is when putting seal into a bore with forsk still assembled. I have a set of seal drivers (for auto & industrial seals) that work well installing seals when the inner tube is not in place. They are a giant metal washer 3/8 inch thick about 3 inchoes OD. A round rod sticks out the back side to drive with hammer. Various sizes of plastic inserts to fit seal ID screw onto the front. Tap things in, works nice and square, and the big metal plate bottoms on the houseing, doesn't overdrive the seal. generally I end up spending the money for good tools, but usually only after having spent hours, and wrecked at least one set of good parts, doing a job I never intended to do again..... I'm a slow learner. kcj

wonder boy reincarnated???

my offer of help is no good-I have a 97 270 parts list, not a 200. and the view is so small it doesn't help. parts are shown exploded view, not how it shuld work. if you have worked on any japanese stuff it's functionally the same. sorry kcj

I'd like to get an EZ Up shelter. Goal is sun and rain protection. Generally don't have a lot of wind where we are. One version is EZ Up Encore II, but sold only through SamsClub. Seems pretty light duty, but has walls, about $210. I' d like something better if possible, but not spend a lot more money. Dome II has sloping legs for more horizontal stability. Express II is more in normal EZ Up line of products. Enterprise II is higher quality, but more money than I think I can spend. I can't find a local dealer to see any of these. All of them walls are spendy. the blue tarp route may have to work, but I'd like to get a good base unit to start with. Anyone have expereience with any of these models? Comments please. kcj minnesota

I don't have a manual, but have a partslist for 2000 GG200. I will try and have a page scanned and send to you. It is pretty straight forward and typical motorcycle shifter though. shifter shaft has a plate welded on the end of the shaft. Long bar with the notche or 'hooks' pivots about a rivet at outer end of the plate welded to the shaft. The notched part the hooks, sits on top of the shifter drum dowel pins. An extension spring pulls the long bar down against the shifter drum dowel pins. my description is hopeless I will see if can get some parts scanned. or, go to RYP site and look at the sherco parts dwg. never worked on sherco, but I would think the concept is the same. kcj

bentley not on a beta? glad to see you back. kcj UMTA

I design hydraulic systems. In the US at least, there are so many private label brands of motor oil, hydraulic oil, gear and two stroke oil. etc. etc. One vendor I deal with will do any label you want as long as minimum of couple hundred liters. Any additive pack or recipe you want also, but that costs big money. Pick a standard recipe off the 'menu', they will put a new label on it and voila!, I'm in the oil marketing business. So my point is, many off brand unknown names are very good products, the same additives as the top name and top$$ products. The issue is, I just don't know. There is no way to tell what cost and level of recipe they chose, was it leftover stuff from small lots, or in between blends from the unknown mix tank, or different suppliers each time depending on where WalMart or Mills Fleet Farm bought it from? I think even these odd names today are SO much better than top name oils 20 years ago that you can't go too far wrong using any product nowadays. Just change it often and keep the dirt and wear particles out. So using the shop name shouldn't be an issue. Better than none, or old oil! Personally, I experiement until pick a brand name that seems to work well in the clutches, buy it ahead whenever it comes on sale, stay with it, and change it often. For example, among all our bikes, I use less than 20 liters a year in transmission fluid changes. Paying an extra couple bucks per liter isn't much over the year. Gives me the warm fuzzy peace of mind, or 'placebo effect' anyway. kcj

try this address, find the Cole/Anus laptop computers. IT's VERY long, but elaborate and funny. I followed it last year. http://thescambaiter.com/forum/showthread.php?t=109 k

I put the 2000 GasGas front wheel and disc on my 86 TY mono. The Talon etc kits are about non existent over here, and I've also heard some of them wre not that good. I used the GG because I had it, but it worked super. I highly recommend it. Incredible difference, not just in power of brakes, but in consistency. With enough care, the drum could be quite strong, but spongy with cable stretch, and totally inconsistent from wet to dry, mud to dust, etc . etc. Bruce Anderson was going to post the pics and .doc notes on his TY website. If he hasn't had time, PM me and I will get the info. I have SLOW dialup, so hopefully don't have to go that route. kcj

nothing fancey, most small digital VOM now have a beeper on the resistance scale that beeps when shorted. Or use the ohms scale. old style needle meter is better than digital, you can just see it move a few ohms while a digital takes a second o\r two to respond. for a quick check on battery points deal: Get a small transisotr radio (do they even sell them anymore??) tune it between stations, and put next to the case by points. when the points open you will hear a distinct snap through the radio speaker. did that many times on my Honda twins, farm equipment and other battery engines, not sure if works on magnetos.

I'd love it, whatever your price and condition. Seems that I have this customer in the UK who paid me for a job, so if you will take this check, ship the bike, and by the way send me the extra funds as soon as possible. . . . . . can't ever get away from them. . .

the MX and off road yams of that era had production monoshock as you show. Didn't have the dogbone aneprogressive linkages, so the only great advnatages were cooler, longer stroke, and better shocks. Also more rigid swing arm in torsion (side to side twist of wheel). my Bro in law raced for years,at a pretty highlevel, said the ride was better but the weight being up higher under the tank was noticeable to him. I think the introduction fo progressive linkage made the old monshock obsolete.

tks all. some background: I was going to get a spare set of links, just change out and service them later, but the two bikes we have are differnt links, but same bearings. Stock is HK (this is used by several mfrs as a prefix, alan's explantation seems spot on) but 1512 (12mm wide) with separate lip seals. My past dealer found some 1516 2RS wider, with seals on each end. But they aren't great seals, and there isn't enough room with the wider bearings for the original lip seals. Bushings have to be from GasGas. Even with frequent greasing, it seems the bushing corrode/discolor with surface damage long befre the bearings wear out. So I am trying to find a better seal arrangement. If I can find better seals, and cheaper bearings, I won't mess with cleaning thoroughly and the time required. Just press out the old, push in the new andmove on with life. I have found some 14 with RS, and a double lip TCM seal in 3 mm wide. That package may give 3 separate sealing surfaces, and a wider bearing than stock. Bearings $5 each and seals at 1.50 each. Total for two links, both ends, is $32. Stock parts were about 70, but mainly I want better sealing and less often to have to service them. Will see how it goes togehter and keep you posted. I use sockets and hammer lightly. If that doesn't do it easily, a length of threaded rod with small socket on one end, bigger socket on far end. Pull it through. With care, some of the pressed out ones can be reused in emregency if there aren't spares, or if one gets damages. so my thought was to make a fixed tool like a small drill press vice that is faster to press. eliminate all the loose parts and patience. The dirvers still need a hammer tactic. and I'd like to have this tool fit both GG and Sherco. tks for ref, duh, I should have thought of RYP site. excellent service and documntation. things come apart easy, but I am glad I had the other bike there to remember how to go back on. link offsets, which hole in triangle plate, etc. what snow? we've had 6 easy winters. but, frost and snow just gone in laste few weeks. ice out of lakes a couple weeks back. I am in southern MN, but those of you who have been to Duluth WR know why most of the section work gets done in the fall. kcj

nsaqam minnesota? so see you at Theilman this sunday I hope? if you need more info write me off line and I'll hook you up. kcj