kevin j

I forgot to add: given the price of flywheels and crankshafts, I would be very cautious about matching the thread. I am seriously 'financially limited', but many times figure I cannot afford to go the 'cheap' route as it costs too much in the long run! Usually its a time issue that I build or modify a tool. k

I have a 96 and 2000. After searching many sources, I could not find a generic and had to buy from GG. Price wasn't bad, just took two weeks to get it. kcj From my notes file: Flywheel hub puller. Most Yamaha use 27 x 1.0 mm LH thread, external on tool, internal on flywheel. GasGas appears to be 27 x 1.0 RH thread, external tool, internal wheel.

I would not say R plugs make no difference at all. Martin Belair (US Montesa importer) had a post in past that the Montessas for sure needed R plugs to make ignitions work right. I have no info on other brands. k

This is the info I had written in a file on bearings for our 96 and 2000 GG. RS beaings have seals on the ends, others don't and have to have a separate seal pushed on. I don't know of a source for the inner hardend bushing, in two different ID sizes, other than GG. kcj Wheel bearings, 99&2000, Front & rear, both sides: Koyo 6004 2RS, sealed both sides. Std industrial bearing. 96: Rear has two 6004 2RS on sprocket side, one on brake side. Front has one per side. DOGBONE NEEDLE BEARINGS AND SEALS Got from Industrial Supply Co, 1516 2RS bearings, and 15-21-3 TCM seals. Can't get bushings? Original dogbones have INA HR 1512 15mm OD, 12 wide. bushings are xx OD, one end 8 mm bolt ID< one end 10 mm bolt ID. Seals or o-rings? Tom put in INA HR15162RS, wider, with seals. Where can I get bushings? 96 JTR: Swing arm had HR1516 + 1512 + 1516. Manual shows two 1516, plus 15-21-3 mm seal 8170N on each end. Installed new 1516, no RS, but I put short brass spacer between to get loads in bearings out to end. Fork head bearings: tapered rollers, Std industrial NTN, Timken, etc. 30203 top & bottom. 17 mm bore, 40 mm OD, 13 mm thick 04/04 8.10 each.

there was quite a long posting that would be worth finding in the archives here. Basically, three families of fluids: 1. glycols (brake fluids) in DOT (Dept of Transportation) certifications DOT 3, DOT 4, differeing by boiling point and water absoprtions. Glycols are water soluble and absorb water. 2. petroleum, mineral oils (hydr fluids, brake and clutch fluids, motor oilds ) 3. Silicone based DOT 5 to add to confusion, DOT (5.1?) is NOT silicone based, but compatable with glycols. I have no idea why this number was picked. Petroleum oils tend to swell & soften o-rings suitable for glycols, and vice versa. Common hardware store o-rings are who knows materials. Industrial ones are typical nitrile/Buna N suitable for oils. Glycol ones are different, one of the neoprenes that I have forgotten which. Silicones are happy with either o-rings, but not with the fluids. Some brake cleaner sprays can damage o-rings. Swelling is usually a longer term thing, time and temperature related. If you got it out in a day or two, personally I would disassemble and flush everything throughly with the glycol fluid, put it all back together and try it, but get a caliper and master kit on order. What sort of opinions on silicone fluids out there? I don't need the higher boiling, and I end up flushing a couple times a years, so moisture & corrosion is not an issue, so I stay with DOT 4. Also, most people run glycol and I don't want chance of any mixing. As Stu said, paint get attacked by glycol. Are people happy with silicones for that reason? k

hopefully many of the u.s. people will be able to meet you as well at duluth. I defintely appreciate all the website effort and all I have learned here. and plenty of fun here too. k

I have a couple friends who are tree climbers. They dropped off some log chunks that we have in about 15x25 ft area, 5 logs, each about 5 ft long, long enough for safety. One has part of a fork, it doesn't roll around and it gives a couple more angles to attack. Call some tree services, they have to pay dearly to get rid of logs too big for the chipper (i.e. just what trials folk want, maybe 18-36 inches diameter). They may not want to mess with only a couple pieces, but if you can take a small dump truck load, they like to dump them for free instaed of paying to dump. k

to me the answer is obvious: go meet up with the guy from NJ and ride several different bikes, and get some basic tips on riding the trials bikes. Then when you are sufficiently addicted, use the ktm as trade in on a new trials bike, ride in your backyard every evening, and join the trials group! k

exactly the reason for the markets their products go into. Like the japanese in the 50's after the war, the chinese planners/leaders wisely know what technology and goods need to be developed long term. Picking a product that has high volumes reduces costs, allows for investment, and produces good s for their massive market. Then, as the knowledge developes, the products get more advanced and better made. diesle engines drivetrains, hydraulic components, electronics, optics, etc. etc. to where they are now. Look at the china tools: Granted, not much quality yet, but we can buy an entire set of sockets for $5 shipped here and including dealer profit. The products are made and subsidized there to develope forging, plating, machining, etc. etc. etc. To do that takes massive volume, more than the local market needs. Chinese gov't figures it's better to subsidize companies and exports than put money into social welfare. And to there credit, it is amazing to see a culture move several technology levels in only about 25 years. Much as I value freedom, I do see the functional advantages of planned centralized regimes. There isn't much debate and the long range vision stays consistent. Producers are not restrained by details such as working conditions, safety, medical care, human rights, pollution regulations, copyright or patent infringement, (e.g. the copy of the Honda 90 engine they have been building for decades) liability, etc. I have no objections to buying, free trade, and developing nations. Trade is how they move their standard of living upward. What bothers me is when the rules are not the same for all players. Those of us (especially in the US) who want all the decent conditions in our own jobs and lives, but also want products (from vcr to tennis shoes) produced at the absolute lowest price are often getting those products at the expense of other people in developing countries. The person building that product has few of the basic human necessities that our laws provide. yes, I know, one theory is with trade comes influence, but is that not often just a justification for wanting cheap goods? anyway, end of rant. I have had my caffeine limit for the day. kcj

Tri Terrier cylnider head and cylinder are on US ebay now. $20 and less. k

I kept the OEM yamaha forks and axle and put a 2000 Gas GAs wheel and brake on. very eay to do, and don't have tomess up the rake and trail. see previous posts with pictures and more details. kcj

lcutch extenders for the Yam TY350 was a cast pocket at the ends that fit around the sides of the lever and used the single orignal hole with a bolt through it. without the extender, the TY is stiff. With, its one finger. If you have the machining capability, I'd make a bolt on one-you can try various lengths a couple mm apart and see which you like. the down side to to much extension is reduced clutch travel leading to slight drag in the plates. kcj

I have the Handy Mfg lift table and also another crank up lift with the wheel vise charlie referred the link to. Both great products. Tje vise is so fast and easy to use.

I also pull the pads out and put old ones in, or put some plastic wedges between piston and disc, with a bit more space than pad thickness.. If fluid gets on the new pads, they are history. For some reason, I have not found a cleaner to get it out o the friction material in the pads. Do the bleeding, then put in the new pads. Push the brake lever SLOWLY down, but only normal stroke or less. Don't push it fully to end of stroke. Return it up slowly and work the pistons out slowly. One of the regulars (using that term loosely in some ways) posted here about the master cyl piston sucking in air if it was stroked too far. It would create too much suction before uncovering the bleed port in the master cylinder. I have found that to be true-makes sense, the lip seals are designed to seal with pressure on the inside of lip, not from the outside. It explains some very persistent air problems. Since using this method, I have 'less' hell with rear brakes. the only redeeming feature for rear drums. kcj

there is a cub bottom end for parts on US ebay. I cannot post a link, system is down. k

you can also reduce diameter on the beginning part to slow it down, leave the larger diameter at the top end, and have sort of a progressive action

I tried the same route for a long time, looking at forks, and entire front end, but even if the forks or tubes fit, the geometry is all goofy because of lower axle offset not matching. finally, on a coincidence with some spare parts, I realized a modern front wheel fits easily. I used a 2000 GasGas wheel, master, and 4 piston caliper. Far better than any of the older kits, and not bad to do. Awesome change inthe bike. Now if it could just shed 30 lbs. Search through the past posts for more info and some pics, or advise q's. kcj

seems cool, but the engine looks overgrown in the small frame. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...5&category=6719 not that I am into these, the Mont 23 look more to scale. k

can you give more onfo on this 'sikaflex'? The name may not be available here, but apparetnly its a windshield sealant for autos that might be similar product here. I have used the green Slime product with good success. Works pretty well with tube type tires also. The down side on tubeless tires is that repairs are a terrible mess inside when the time comes. also, be cautious about the stuff getting out of the valve stem. The tiny fibers in the slime product seem to make the valve stem leak later on, when you are letting out a bit of air the stuff blows back out into the stem seat. kcj

From old notes: Twin shock Yam manuals listed the inidustry std sizes next to Yam part number. 80's, the mono manuals did not. I wonder why. . . . No info on head bearings. When it's apart, I drill and tap the front of the steering head, near top and bottom, for 1/4-28 grease fittings. Then keep it well greased and keep the water out. Done with lots of twiin shock, haven't done with mono. k FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS -6202 RS Rubber seal on outside. Can't tell on inside. No shields. L & R are the same. REAR WHEEL BEARINGS -Left (Drive side) Seal: type 'PD K1' (???) 26 mm shaft, 42 mm OD, 8 mm wide. 3 lips, all in the dust excluder direction. -Left side bearing: 42 mm OD, 13.4 mm wide, 14.9 mm (.587 inches) shaft. Strange dimensions, have not found an interchange. Measure again. -Right side (brake side) seal: 35 mm OD, 22 mm shaft, 4.5 to 5 mm wide. metal can. -Right side bearing: 35 mm OD, 11 mm wide, 14.85 mm ID. -Hard to remove inner spacer between bearings. Need to drill cross holes when removed, so can punch out with drift the next time. CRANK MAIN BEARINGS Yam 93306-20627-00 (2) Koyo 83A 093-9 (2) open bearings. Did not get std number or measure. KICK STARTER SEAL 20mm shaft-30 mm OD-5mm wide. Double lip seal. One to outside excluding dust, one to inside retaining oil.

i can't find a post, but think someone was looking for a rear wheel? ebay, UK http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...ssPageName=WDVW

Nope, they told me the nikasil is harder than the silcion carbide brush hone, and it just glazes the surface. Clean it with soap and hot water, check all the port deburring, and put it together. Keep the air filter clean, Nikasil should go a long time more than the original chromed bore. They did say on a rebuild, a diamond hose is good, (who has that), and a brush type silicon carbide hone would be helpful. Seems contradictory, but that's all I know. k

try an evening class at the local school or community education. whateer equivalent you have over there. Then you get proper exposure to all the various types, deicde what type of projects you will use most, and make your deicisons. I'm just an old farm boy who can do about everything with a stick, but would sure like to learn MIG and Tig. Stick is the twin shock version of welding. Works fine if you don't know there is anything better. k

Exactly. Reality or not, most people can envision themselves as Tiger woods in golf, Richard Petty in NAscar, or J MGrath in MX. They THINK I could do that, just a little bit slower. Trials: Not. ( I do this sport, and I can't even imagine myself doing those things.) Anyway, I now have the stuff I referenced above on a a CD. Not readable on DVD, but does play on computer Windows Media player. The video is in three parts, all the master for .doc stuff is there, the brochure in publisher and pictures. Video quality is not great, but the idea is there, and it does work as is. Al I don't have your address anymore. Anyone else who wants copies, send me an address, and send a few bucks to Andy to support the board. kevincj46 at hotmail.com

Maier http://www.maier-mfg.com in the US had some universal trials fenders in the past. k