kevin j

I've heard the terms used both ways: lean/rich applied to carbureation, rich is obviosuly more fuel. Lean/rich applied to premix, rich being more oil in the mix. Yes, technically, replacing part of the fuel with oil means richer oil mix yield slightly leaner gas mix, but unless it is research level measurement it is meaningless. The amount of change is fractions, maybe second decimal fractions, of a percent. And both are indeed petroleum, there is some heat output in burning the oil. It's probably a slight viscosity effect more than the fuel value of the liguid volume. I've seen magazine articles that correct the jetting for this in tests, I think it is ego, and the accuracy of their tests was way less than this variable. Someone trying to impress with how technical the test is maybe.... There is much published evidence that more oil is better. Common sense of course, thrashing metal things benefit from more lubrication. Also, better heat transfer, better ring sealing, less friction, more power, etc. 'My mix is leaner than yours' can be an ego thing also: 'I run, 80:1-Oh, yeah? I run 100:1, I have super oil, run 120:1,......blah blah. In trials, we don't need the lubircation for full power continuous operation. What we run 80:1 would seize in minutes in a road race engine. There is a lot of oil on the inside crankcase surfaces, and SAE radioactive fuel testing showed the new mix shows up in the exhaust in a few seconds, but after running an engine a long time to coat the inisde and reach steady state, when the mix runs lean traces of oil show up in exhaust for up to 30 minutes. So we have sort of an 'average' oiling system that carries through the bursts of high loads. The down side to too much oil is loss of crispness and smoke and exhaust gunk, especially when loaded and unloaded. It heats, melts, moves, solidifies, etc. From people much wiser than me, I've settled in on 80:1 for the moderns, 60:1 on the aircooled. Both will full synthetic oils. Seems to give clean burn, and minimal deposits, and minimal wear when inspecting a teardown. And, technically also, 1 ounce of oil in an 80 ounce jug, then filled with fuel, could be called 1 part in 80, but is not 80:1 gas to oil. It is 79:1. Only 79 spaces left for fuel once the one is filled with oil. No one cares, we don't measure that accurately anyway, and if we did, the choice of 75 or 80 or 85 to 1 doesn't matter. Just a fine point for us engineers..... kcj

yes, if I recall correctly it's been a while since I have had my wheel off. Don't ride it too much any more. It's the one I have converted to GG front disc brakes, and I need the speedo drive in there as a spacer. I think there are two milled slots on the wheel hub. Two tabs on a sheet metal part inside the speedo drive engage the slots. On other models, if the tabs are not in the slots, and axle is tightened up, the tabs bend back flatter. Then they don't reach into the slots when the wheel is put on correctly. I think its true of the Ty also. The tabs turn a large gear, sort of, or metal piece with teeth cut on it. That turns the speedo drive the cable plugs into. Basically a worm gear drive, like a car steering box, in reverse: the big gear is the input, the small worm is the output. Sometimes the drive tangs shear off or the teeth strip out if the cable seizes or puts to much resistance take it apart and it will likely be obvious what is wrong.

The DNR took 1200 acres in northern Minnesota and made an OHV park for jeeps, mc, quads, etc. Town is really behind it as the tourism is their main industry once the irons mines played out. Awesome place, huge rock piles. Petersons offroad did JeepJamborees there. We do an event each year. Park official are great, work with us on every turn, even have a couple permanent trials sections to promote to other mc riders. http://www.gilbertmn.org/ohvra.htm doesn't show the big rock areas, just shows thr fine iron ore tailings, like red gravel. highly recommended. Its amazing to watch the slow rock crawlers. No dabs to help there, they just tip over! k

see if the tabs in the drive engage the wheel. they may be bent from assembling the wheel in the wrong location. where are you located? I may have an extra one, have several speedos and don't use any of them. I just need the drive as as a spacer on the axle. kcj

Is there an internal stop in both directions, up and down? perhaps it indexes properly off the up or down end, but has more travel than expected. i.e say80 degrees or arc instead of 70 degrees of arc (just picking numbers) because some thing internally is worn? I don't recall a stop down, only up, but have nothing else to offer for ideas. I'll look at mine this weekend, might have one partly disasembled to look at the mechanism.

serach for the 'confessions of cole', or 'anus laptops' this one is a classic. http://thescambaiter.com/forum/showthread.php?t=109

not likely the main jet as that doesn't come into play much. check the basics: dirty air filter, exhaust carboned up, carb good cleaning, floats sunk or heavy.

Can't photo it, but checked mine tonight. the pivot shaft, that the lever folds in & out on, is vertical, center line of that shaft aligned with the case screw jsut behind it. This puts the top of the lever (the main 8 inch long part, not the footpad) about at the center line of the top of carb. Is yours close?

any more info on converting the back wheel to tubeless? I have TY350 (several) and converted front to a GG disc brake 4 piston, works great. sort of like your pinky I guess. I'd likd to convert the back. Drum brake is fine, but I'd like to get away from fighting tube repairs. I have a 2000 GG rear wheel and brake, same source as the front. With the lowered pegs, how did you mount a master cylinder and rig up the linkage to pedal? I assume mounting the wheel and caliper is the easy part. Did you float the caliper on a bracket about the axle, or fasten to the swing arm? it's a 'someday' project, but looking for ideas. tks, kcj

Is this in the up position? Been a while since had one apart, but there is an internal stop if I recall, but if the lever is on the spline one tooth off it will go to far forward. Try moving it around on the shaft teeth.

carb, yes likely, especially if it was stored. Time for a good cleaning, add fuel filter. OEM tiny TY filters are no longer available, and carb parts about impossible so be gentle in the task. Small lawm\nmower filters work well. I would not run castor oil, the maintenance and shelf life once mixed is a hassle. In 'the old days' the absolute maximum lubrication performance made it the oil of choice for extreme use, even with the draining and flushing tasks. Now, the synthetics are better lube, less smoke, and less maintenance. They have their own unique smells which you do start to appreicate. like a fine wine that take time to grow on you, inline at a section? Anyway, I used YamlLube R but lot of smoke and deposits. Now I use Maxima synthetic, only because the dealer is close. I'd go any good fully synthetic premix oil. Not injector oil. I run 80:1 in the modern water cooled, but about 60:1 in the air cooled yamaha. 32 is way too rich for trials or trails, although I think the manual says that. That would be more for high load, high rpm. TY has a lot of hot knocking issues, widely written about on the site. I use 2 or 3 parts 92 octane unleaded pump gas with 1 part 100+ octane race gas, for roughly 95 octane. Seems about the minimum to get away from the knocking. Removing the head gasket helps. The modifications typically done to TY are here somewhere. Use a fine wire precious metal plug and it resists fouling better. great old dinosaur, I still ride it occasionallyin events, and always ride it when out for fun with friends.

I'm looking for similar source in the US. Also, any ohm readings to check out the stator? Just got 03 Beta for son, and getting prepared for the spares and repairs. kcj minnesota

UMTA has one event at the OHV park in Gilbert (to the UK buddies, Gilbert was an old mining overburden site turned into off highway park for jeeps, ATV and MC. Basically over 2 sq miles of rock piles up to 300 feet high or so. Lot of trees, side slopes, miles of trails, etc. Awesome place. Peterson OffRoading Magazine and Jeep Jamboree have nationals there) Irony: hard to get a good turnout as it's 'too far north' for most of us! so I can understand where you are coming from. Also, two club events at Duluth Spirit Mountain, after a hold put on by the tree huggers last year. One Duluth event is a round of the central regional series, so other states riders hopefully will be drawn up. Duluth area: Steve, Bowmans, and Hofstrands, but all are high level riders. McCluckeys make it down occasionally from Thunder Bay, saw David thsi weekend at UMTA. Hopefuly you can come down for some two day events, just hang out and meet people and ride. It's a tough sell to the MX buddies. No great fan appeal and glory, no one knows what it is, and it is SO humiliating to someone who sees themselves as a 70 mph 'racer' to find out he can't turn 180 degrees around a tree at walking speed! kcj western Mpls UMTA

when you say adjustment screw on the lever is all the way in, are you reducing the piston travel? Like the brake master cyliners, there are bleed ports in the bottom of reservoir. If the piston is stopped too far in and doesn't return back past that bleed hole, it can't replenish the fluid in the line and travel of slave is reduced. Make sure the piston moves fully back to the snap ring or stopper, and leave some very small clearance to the lever scree, then try it. If that helps, then fine tune the adjusting screw

I would revisit the carb. If crank seal, or inlet seal, the air leak would be worst at idle (tickover?) unless the idle mixture was way rich. I take it as though it dies immediately off idle. There are some transisiton holes in the cab body just around the slide, make sure they are cleared. next range is the needle and needle jet. Squirt some WD40 over the crank seal areas and see if it changes. Use a propane torch (not lit) and apply some LP gas to the carb and base gasket areas, see if it changes. Not recommended for the crank seal area as spark at points could be ugly with LP gas. Doe it die out from lean, or from rich? the 175 had an oring on the main jet to the bowl, if that leaks it goes way rich and floods out.

KCJ, Located in Wilmington, NC. Lot's of relatives in St. Paul. Mike if you ever get up here, contact me and we'll go riding. www.umta.org is Minnesota. WOTA is Wisconsin

where are you located? Bruce anderson site has most of the CJ modification's listed. The easy, std stuff is flywheel trim, clutch extender, fork springs I also added bar risers, disc front brake and need to lower the pegs. Lots of ebay stuff available in the US I can send you a file of notes. kcj

Will the fork tubes from a Techno fit a Rev 3? I have an option to pick up a pair of assemblies complete at reasonable price, and thought it may be handy to have for spare parts. Son rides fairly high level and its only a matter of time before I might need something quick. They are not available to compare side by side. Could I use them permanently, or temporarily, until getting the right ones? What were the impreovements functionally, as well as dimensionally? Tube diameter, overall length, axle attachement, brake attachment? tks, kcj

FWIW, assorted risers on ebay all the time. Someone makes them, just upward. I just put on a set of up & forward risers on an old TY350. Helps a lot. Haven't ridden yet, just around the driveway, but feels much better. Awfully tall, given the height of the TY pegs to start with, but the layout suits me better and bars forward feels better. Someday the pegs will get lowered and forward. Just a fun bike, not serious. I've moved into the modern world for trials, but still like to play with the old bike. They were about $USD80, company out of Canada, www.barrisersonline.com Recommended by a reader of the boards, I bought, and I would recommend also. so, thks to jeff. kcj

On ebay (US at least) there is a seller who lists a Yamaha parts number interchange/will fit type CD. Abotu $25USD. Haven't ordered, always wondered about it.

I made one from a plug body and short piece of brass rod, but it wasn't too accurate. Then I added a bracket on top with adjustable set screw. Adjust the set screw so brass pin just touched it at top. Then use feeler gauge to measure gap between screw and pin when piston is down BTC. used it for years. Worked, but tedious. Splurged on a good dial indicator, 0-1 inch. Took another plug body, bored out, added set screws on sides, and fitted dial indicator into it. Needed an extra long brass screw at the tip of the indicator to reach piston. It just screws in and out of the tip when I use it for this purpose. That works SO much better and faster and more accurate. Hate spending the money, but do it now and have the tool for life.

started my daughter on the PW50 until she could do the clutch, then mnoved to TY80. Can't help your kick start q, but some other stuff I learned: PW I had was 1980's model. It had off-Start-Run. In Start, the ignition circuit was modified such that it would not rev up and engage the clutch. In Run, it would not start. There was an exhaust restrictor washer from new. The idea was to run it until the kid grew, then remove it. It caused a lot of carbon buildup. Autolube sucked, we removed and did premix. If just disconnected, it still pumps at idle. Many parts are common to the QT/QJ? scooters/mopeds. Electrical, carbs, all the engine and most of the drive. With larger wheels, the scooters had lower gearing. Following someone elses advice, I put lower scooter gearing into the PW and it helped a lot. Slower, better climbing, less clutch slipping when used as a 'woods' kids bike. PW had bearings on both sides of axle, scoooter on one side only, so axle itself is different length and would not interchange. I pressed off the ring gear from the scooter, put it on the PW axle. Also changed the pinion gear. I think that took a special tool made from two hex nuts welded together, easy to do. Not very precision, they are simple bevel gears, and dont' run very high speed or very manyhours. Pack the housing half full with grease. long ago, many good memories. great for kids confidence. The small Hondas are probably great too, just cost a lot more in the usedmarket in those days. kcj

looking for same info, to add a two wire switch to the Beta. I also prefer where I can reach with thumb, although I know the advanced riders don't like this. don't ground the switch on the triple tree, the electtrical still has to go through the bearings to the main frame. Tiny arcing and eventual bearing wear. More prevalent on industrial equipment. Run the wire back and ground to the frame. [kcj

put it together, ride it, and see what you think before changing anymore than you need to. its mostly personal preference anyway. k

explain further please? blocked coincidentally, or something in the cleanup that pinched/blocked it? kcj