myzeneye

im guess youve not got the spring behind mixture screw..... easy left out / lost when cleaning i spose.... wind mixture screw right out,remove and clean, should be a small spring sat behind it which keeps the pressure on the thread to stop it moving........

There's less in there than you think, it's very simple.... Don't be frightened to get stuck in!

+2 Follow grumpy gets instruction and you'll be sorted. Seals in master cyl swollen in my opinion..... If you remove the flat o ring seal, they very often have crap underneath them causing them to swell and not move freely or even stick completely. Remove push rod, remove rubber boot, remove circlip , piston/plunger, remove o ring seal clean and replace... Reassemble, refill and bleed. Job done

Thanks for the input guys.... As I say, the stator is currently at its full clockwise rotation. Even if I were to leave the bottom "fixed" Allen bolt off the slotted sections are at their max clockwise rotation.... If this is normal for,the occasional deathly kick back, well ill just get used to being wairy of it and start referring to the bike as chuck Norris jnr. I'm not overly bothered about trying to soften or calm the bike down any, just prevent it trying to scythe my hoof off.

Hahahha. It's lookin blacker each day..... Can't for the life of me understand how the kick hit the top of my foot though ? Stripped flywheel off last night and had a look...... Don't think the ign timing is possible to alter on the evo. Reason being, the usual slotted parts off the body which normally allow for the adjustment..... Well, the top two fixings are slotted, but the bottom fixing is not slotted, just a hole, making sure it sits in the one place. The stator seemed to be fully roasted clockwise anyhow. And there was no room for any further clockwise rotation ,even if said fixing had allowed. Now, if fully clockwise was fully ADVANCED, it would make sense.... But as you say.... This position is retarded.... Finally insult was the bolt Allen bolt fixing , the Allen key just spun as the lock tight used at factory has set let concrete mixed with steroids. There was a little but off surface rust on bottom of flywheel which I've successfully removed.... Would this interfere with pickup and affect timing any? Any one else got any two peneth to add ?

Cheers copey . Gonna open it up later and take a look..... Foots looking shocking ,!

It still kicks over and runs fine, it just had the odd few occasions where it kicked like a mule...... When it bit me, I'm not sure where my foot was and I'm puzzled as to how it struck me on the TOP of the foot ? If the wood ruff had Sheered, surly I'd have wonky firing and it would be running like a bag of poo? As I say, it starts first kick every kick, runs fine....... The bike had stood still for a while with its previous owner, and this was my second outing on the bike.. I understand staters don't like standing still..... Can the timing be altered like I could with my old sherco or is it set and mapped by the two stage Cdi on the evo?

Hi again folks.... Riding yesterday and my bike kicked back harder then you could imagine, caught me on the top of my left foot. It hit so hard it cut through the leather of my diadora's and left me whining like a girl...... I rode on for another hour or so but felt something wasn't right...... Today, my whole foot has swelled and is the most horrible shade of black blue and purpley yellow...... This kick back is deffo due to ignition timing.... Can any one offer any advice on how to retard the timing ? I've done it before on a sherco I had and it was pretty straight forward..... Am I right in recalling the puller for my sherco will fit my evo ? Are there any markings I should look for for setting the staters position ? The sherco wasn't exactly clear so I'm hoping beta have done a better job of making some visible kind of markings...... Foot looks a real pigs trotter.....

It tends to drink fuel like I drink Guinness....... Quickly!

Nelly, rob had the same issue with his evo..... Lampkins advised him to change pilot and main jet and use super unleaded..... CURED IT. Coincidentally, we went nant urcha today, could only get normal unleaded from the garage in Chester..... Guess what...... Yep, started with a little pinking again..... Try this before you try anything else. Take your carb off and see what size the main and pilots are..... Standard is 48 pilot and 125 main jet. Robs runs on 45 pilot and 110 main..... And yes, when I tell most people that they look at me like I've got two heads..... It runs sweet as a nut mate.

Hi folks, my 2009 290 evo's got standard jetting in... 48 pilot and 125 main. My mates running his on 45 pilot and 110 main and it runs sweet as a nut.... Mine ain't that bad, and a thorough stip down and clean of the carb has helped smooth things out..... What's the general opinion.... I understand the standard jetting is made for warmer climates and higher altitudes perhaps..... Wet welsh vallys rant really ideal I suppose.... Bike kicks back like a bitch.... Probably ign timing I'd love to hear your opinions and what jets anyone else runs their 290 on... Thanks for the advice

What the word on these golden tyres then ? Says ttt helped develop them.....? Do they use them or does that just mean ttt accepted a bunch of free tyres to use as a section and ride over with michellins on? Mind you, at 130 the pair they're not far if decent tyre money................

Thanks, no problem with pipe, as it happens , I'm a heating engineer ! I just wasn't sure weather the suggestion of using plastic waste pipe was corrector not.... I had assumed they should be some grade of metal ,Alu, steel...etc etc. ..... Thanks for ou advice.... Will be ordering the springs as soon a the shops open again! Can any one tell me the exact amount of oie I want in each fork leg. ? I'm gonna use the putoline 7.5w I have......

I've got some putoline hxp 7.5w fork oil.... Was planning on putti that in..... B40rt, this brings it back to my original question.... Re shims/ tubes etc..... If I were to go that way and lengthen the tube, what material would I use? I've read some folk using PVC waste pipe, but that just don't seem right at all to me.... . .? What would I use, where would I obtain such a thing ? Hahaha I understand that the new fork spring and the preload tube should be equal to the length of the old spring and tube..... But I would imagine that the old/ existing spring would have sagged ever so slightly and shortened in lentgth from its original size.... Should this be accommodated for? I'd also guess that the new spring will be fractionally longer when laid side by side with theold one due to the above mentioned shrinkage.... And this is perhaps why I would need to shorten the pre load tube? But if I have to use a longer tube, I'm not sure what I would use..... Shortening is a hacksaw job... But Lengthening.... Dunno? Can anyone explain what the job of the pre load tube is? Is it just to act as something to fill the space between the softest setting of pre load and the top of the spring? Allowing the screwing down of the preload adjuster to communicate with the spring and push it under a load? One last question..... If I put thicker fork oil in I understand it will slow down the dampening and firm it up, but will it also slow down the rebound speed and make the forks sluggish, or will the new heavier spring compensate for that? God, I guess the only way to find out is try it..... Was hoping someone else had already been down this route and could offer some first hand advice.... Appreciate your comments guys...

Thanks, beta uk have them in stock.... You say heavier oil will slow the action Down...... Does this mean firm up the dampening as well ? And also, I'm guessing this will slow down the rebound? Which is to what I want....? I'll just try the spring first.....

I did this injury some time ago.... Recovery I'd say has been 85 -90% Takes time, and st backs are easily done if you don't take care of things but I'm happy with where it is now... I can ride just as bad as I did before

Can the oil in the rear shock be changed for a heavier grade ? I plan on up rating front and back springs for the heavy ones.... And I also plan on putting in a heavier grade fork oil..... As for spacers, tubes etc etc.... I'll just put the original stuff back in there with the new springs and thicker oil and see how that goes......... I will report back with the results..... Now, all I need is for some shops to open!!!

Thanks guys, ive established that the 09 springs are designed for an anorexic one diet...... My question is, has an one upgraded to the heavy rear AND front spring set up, and, can anyone give a report on what it's like and give any detail on settings.........? (Nelly half answered, thank Neil) Also, Splat shop ad says this: "The spring maybe longer or shorter than your standard spring so it may be necessary to add to or remove some of the preload tube so the length of the spring plus the pre load tube is the same as the original spring and preload tube." This is the part which concerns me and I'm looking for advice on....... How can I add to the pre load tube? I'm sure removing some would be easy enough .... But adding too ? With what, how..... Can I buy a longer tube ? I don't want bits of cobbled together crap in my forks...... Anyone done it, what's the answer ?

I just want the bike to be set up properly for a little fella like me (6'2" & 17stone:) ) I don't want the bike to catapult me into orbit when I hit a piece of gravel, but on the other hand I do want to be able to have a bit of travel and not bottom out..... With the stock set up, when I stand on the bike it drops right down and has only a couple of inch travel ,maybe less, till bottoming out?.. I can swap the springs and oil etc but won't have much of a clue on setting it up...... Any advice is welcome

I've heard of a few folk doing the rear upgrade, but don't know anyone who has done the front.... I'm happy to swap the rear, but not sure if doing the front is necessary ? Maybe a heavier fork oil would improve things....dunno...... There's a lot of decent tech boys on here, I'm sure one of them will have the answer for a div like me. ....

Ay up nelly, gassers gone, wasn't for me deffo prefer beta feel..... Went to cown quarry today for maiden run on the evo.... There's talk of goin out tomorrow as well... and Sunday...... I'll be divorced by Monday ! Have to bob over and see you for a bounce on your spring then.....

Hi folks, Just bought myself a 2009 beta evo 290 ..... The suspension set up as standard is obviously designed for younger ,ahem, fitter riders.... I myself am a fine figure of a man and a half at 17 stone and I'm thinking of going for the heavier rear spring upgrade as well as the heavier front spring.... Has anyone else been down this route and can you offer any advice ? I've seen the springs f sale at around

Sorry forgot to mention , I have a 2009 evo 290' currently fitted with 2012 plastics..... If that helps ?

Ho folks, I'm After some ttt gear but struggling to find any ?... I wanted the 2012 pants with beta logo, only place I can find em is haven, and they are out of stock ? He advises that the new 2013 gear will be along shortly but I can't find any catalogue etc nothing at all anywhere ? Is there no other shop selling this gear ? I also wanted front and rear black ttt flexi mud guards and stickers to pimp my new ride but I'm struggling to find them too.... Again ? Out of stock ? What the score , any other suppliers .. .? Seen a place over seas called banyeres , has any one used them before ? Has any one got the black ttt plastics for an evo and if so hoe do you rate them for both fit and appearance/ quality . Thanks guys

I'm just about to order a pair of boulders too. Can you give any advice on the sizing....mare they true to your normal shoe size or have you had to go a size bigger . ?