myzeneye

i know this is an old thread...but it may help other folk with a similar problem to know....my bike ran exactly this way, mega mega hot then eventualy staor failiure....it done all this pretty much soon after i bagan running an irridium plug . perhaps the combination of retarded timing and the irridiuam plug is not a good mix..... maybe a load of crap, two and two guess work...but there seems to be a pattern here......

right................ parts came today. i ordered a cdi coil, a stator and a "racing loom2 (shortened wiring harness ) the stator i ordered was an "exchange" stator at a price of £140... 40 quid cheaper then a new one but much more of a guarentee then a second hand part from a breakers or off fleebay......or so i thought..... the exchange stator has been repaired yes, namely a new hall effect sensor fitted and sealled with plenty of red goo.... but that all. the bloody thing still has mud caked all over the plugs, the sheathing on the cable was split and slashed in palces, the stator back plate is caked in the crud youd expect to find in a stator youd removed from an old,OLD bike..... the copper coil windings are the originals and again, caked in muck. non of the parts apart from the hall sensor had been replaced or even cleaned for that matter to be fair, though i was doing the right thing in not buying one off a breaker, or off ebay.... i realise that this unit has a new hall sensor on it but the advert on the web site led me to beleive i was getting a reconditioned part. at only 40 quid less then a brand new one, id have expected better. even more so, when i spoke to both the guy who does the "reconditioning" and the shop selling the part, they both led me to beleive the only part that remains from the original i exchanged is the metal back plate !!!! anyway, called the shop today and they didnt seem to be too bothered at my dissatisfaction. they told me that this crappy one ive now got is better then a brand new one because the hall sensor which is the part that fails is far better in this repaired stator...... in short, it guarenteed for 12months so i allthough not really happy, i agreed to just use it. so.... tonight, ive repaired the cable sheathing with some self amalgomating tape. i cleaned the part upand fitted everything back. it starts first kick although im not too sure about the timing marks. there is a chisled mark on the stator same as the one i took off. when i took my stator off this mark lined up with the extreme right hand edge of the face which the bolt locates into... thats where ive reset this new one too.... how ever, im not sure this is right, the picture in the sherco manual shows this mark lining up around 2-3mm to the left of this edge.... i think originally the timing may have been too far retarded and causeing the bike to run mega hot.... so im reluctant to go back to this kind of position with the stator.... dunno ? any comments ? the bike runs and revs well but sound loud and like a bloody tractor..i think it cos its on my beer crate stand and the back wheel,tank, flywheel cover etc etc is all off..perhaps its just everything rattling, maybe ive got the super paranoia's.... fianlly.... routing the lead off the stator........jesus, thats a tight squeeze round the back off the fan etc....ive routed the cable and plugs but cant remember the exact route the cable took and where the plugs should be located... as a result of this, the petrol tank doesnt want to go on... could anyone please post a photo of the wiring harness on their bike with the tank off...so i can see the route or location of the bloody plugs (mines an 03).. the racing harness is great,all the lighting harness is now gone... 5 quid well spent i reckon.

as soon as my parts land and ive got myself and the bike sorted, ill set too on the cdi and let you know how it goes.... (man i love that little bannana dude, i could watch him for quite some time....)

i appreciate your thriftiness guidance but im sure my results would amount to a temremental pain in the a*** of a bodged up coil..hahha ill have a go once i ve got the new one. perhaps i could repair it for a spare... i can imagine how to get the existing ht lead out of the sealed unit but cant imagine how i could make decent connections for the new wire.....??? or does it screw on a spile like it does at the spark plug cap end ??? hmmmm now you got me thinking............

hahahha thats brill mate, ill get busy...

thanks, ill take a look copemech in readiness for my lovely new parts.... keep your eye on this thread please buddy incase it all goes pair shaped for me....

yep, cant argue with that mate, but i aint got a local trials shop ..... yes ive got a few folk who know better then i do, but you gotta try these things hey.... ill give it another go , think ill fill it with air and try with some bubbly mix to see if i can see where the leak is first before i pull the tyre off again.....beads seem to be sat on the rim properly, valve core is new, ill be looking around the spokes then to see if ive shifted the rim band.... all part of the learning curve i guess.......

right, ive order all me bits from splat in the end for ease....should be here soon ive ordered the new (exchange) stator and had to get a new digital cdi as well due to the ht being chopped by the fan.... i wouldnt like to think it being faulty had anything to do with my stator going so for peice of mind its a new cdi. now, when i looked at how the bike was set up, timing wise, it seems the stator had been fully retarded to its absolute max..... ? i realise that this will make things softer etc and easier to start, but will it have had anything to do with the bike running stupid beserk hot ? it was running fine temp wise untill recently when i had the big ends done.... maybe the timing was not put back as it was because a few weeks later is when i noticed the bike was about to burst into flames !! could running under such extreme condition cause stator overheat/death ?? anyway, my plan is to install the new gear to factory settings which i assume is the middle (neither advanced nor retarded).... is it normal for folk to retard the bike quite so much ? do many run it advanced or is that for the pro's who like to give it a good screaming ? last question... i hear spraying the stator with clear laquer will help protect it ? is this true or is there something more specific i should use ?

jesus, took me all my effort to do the tyre now ive gotta do it again !! ahh well, its exersize for the shoulder i spose... as a first timer at tyre swapping, and a complete ametuer, i didnt even think to look at any banding etc.... just took the tyre off, swapped it round the other way then tried for ages and ages to get the trye back on its beads....so what is the rim band for then ? as for the lengths, i figured the one id put in was too long

quick /daft question... ive swapped my back tyre, and couldnt manage to get the tyre beads seated back propery.... took it to my brothers garage to use the air lines and the job was sorted ....or so i thought untill ive just checked now and its flat as a pancake. tyre seems to be seated still on its beads etc.... ive got a feeling he swapped the valve core for a shiny new one when he was blasting away with the air line.... are there two types that will got in a schrader valve ? i recall the original core which was removed being smaller some how to the one thats in now ???? daft i know, maybe its just the beads.. (the tryes a mich x11.) cheers mat

yes he's been a great help so far, just thought id ask before i send the bugger off to him.....

ok im ready to get sorted witht this stator. has anyone used motoplat for an overhaul/rewinding etc ? if so, good or bad ? any comments welcome before i send it out to them.....

ahh yes, sorry my mistake, mine is two stroke .....

i had a similar problem on my 250 around a month or so ago.. running rediculasly hot.... back mudgaurd, silecner plastic trim etc etc starting to melt...i was told it was probably an oil build up in silencer...but no...... my own suspician was it was the timing was to far advanced causing it to run lean and hot..... weather its a coincidence or not, this few weeks later my stator coil has threw its hand in. looks like its gonna be rather expensive to put right.i reckon the two issues are deffo related.... i beleieve heat can effect them too and make it apear as a intermitant fault before total failiure.... may not be this, but its worth a mention to see if my symptoms match yours and they end up resulting in the same thing... bleeding bikes beginging to cost me a small fortune..... hope its not your stator...good luck with it. mat

managed to find these resistance readings for a "good" lleonelli sherco 250 stator .... will give it all a go.... Using the red lead to the plug terminals and black to earth. Blue no reading (sometimes shown as 1 or error) Brown 1000 to 1600 Black 1050 to 1650 Using the leads the other way around i.e. black lead to the coloured wires, red to earth. Blue 600 to 730 Brown 650 to 770 Black 650 to 770 Also test the resistance's of the other coil wires, leads either way around. White to red 95 ohms Red to green 550 ohms Green to white 640 ohms

cheers copemech... gonna review finances tonight and see if i can scratch together enough to buy a new stator.. dont see much point in any 2nd ebay jobbies, they are half the price but who knows how long they'l last... ? any one know, if i buy a new one, do they carry any kind of guarentee or if the new one fails a few months down the line is it just hard luck ? gonna get me a "racing loom" whilst im at it, i dont think i could get all the lighting circuits stuffed back in the frame enough to be what i would consider neat and tidy.... bloody wires !!! one last thought....its a long shot..... before it died completley, nelly1 had an idea of blasting (and i mean blasting) the stator with wd40 incase it was wet..... wd40 is non conductive, right ? is it possible that this could be an issue, if so, any suggestions as to what i could use to remove the wd40 coating which is now all over the stator.... ??? i know the actual coils have some kind of laquer coating so i wouldnt know what to use and not stripp that off.... gotta be worth a shot beofre i start ordering parts....

course it is, but the frame of the bike and t/stat in the middle of fan isnt.....

nelly you ball bag.... put your tounge on the plug cap and ill kick it over, that'l tell us if its dead.....

thanks for advice guys... yes, it seems in my naivety i was mis informed re: the stator recall etc... load of pants. cope, i did disconnect the kill switch to see if that changed anything, all i did was undo the spade conector off it tho,and leave the earth end conected to the frame , do i need to anything else other then just disconect it to elimainate the switch? the coil is lleonelli, but ill have to buy a fly wheel puller to get at the stator......... the earth contacts your talking about,? i see the one on the inside of the frame next to where the coil is sited ,thats good and tight,and i presume the top fuel tank bolt which also holds the coil and thyrister thingy in, is that an earth connection as well ? given that the ht lead has been scollopped by the fan, would it be likely that the coil is damaged due to arcing etc and over cooking things ( i did have an issue not long ago with the bike running extrememly hot???) ir do i just go straight for a stator ? does any one know if will spalt supply both and refund the non offender ? my gut feelings are, and knowing sods law, its the stator, but i will have to renew the coil aswell due to the damaged ht lead.... doh!!!

yeah i understand that... just been out and checked everything over....still completely dead spark wise.....no signs of anything obvious being a miss, so its time to start testing components.... i have a decent multi meter but no idea what i should be testing. if anyone can offer any guidance of how to test to see weather its the coil or the stator im all ears as i dont really have the cash to just start throwing parts at it till it works............... mat

hi guys.... back on the bike now after the issie with my shoulder, however its now the bikes turn to be broke ! any helps welcome because im not great with electrical faults.... went to trial on sunday, started bike and left ticking over whilst i signed in... come back and bike had cut out. nothing unusual there i suppose with choke left on and starting from cold etc.... started again and went for a quick zip up and down the field. all good, after breifing went into 1st section and before i could get statred the bike died. would start again. very unusual for this bike. when it did start, it wouldnt tick over. i could get a high rev out of it, but then it would die. i presumed the carb needed cleaning so did a lightening strip/clean with compressed air and reassembly. changed the spark plug, ditched the fuel for new fuel. tried to start it, it would start, rev once, then die. i could manage to get a spluterry high rev out of it butno tick over or normal throttle delivery at all.i messed with mixture screw etc etc nothing. after a bit of head scratching i gave the ht lead a jiggle at the coil end... it started, ran perfectly in fact, better then ever. i put the tool box away (smashing the break light on my car in my haste ! doh!) and set off to catch up.... i got 4 sections done (cleaned as well!) then it died again. this time, when i kicked it over, it was deffo dead. no chance of any ignition. i removed the spark plug and set it against the frame... kicked it over and got no spark. i took a closer look and the ht lead had taped round it (from previous owner)when i removed it, it was clear the ht lead had had an incident with the fan blade at some point and been repaired. i tried this bare section of ht lead against the frame for a spark in case it was arcing from there..nothing, dead. how do i check if the problem is with the coil ( where the ht lead plugs into) or the stator plate.... ? i realise "take it to a shop" is probably a good answer but id rather at least have a go first... any advice on this would be great thanks in advance guys mattie

i was looking for some 6" rise renthals or the like a while back, cos im a lanky begger too.... however, after some tweeking of my existing bars i had serious second thoughts.... before i purchased taller bars i dropped my forks right through my yolks to the tops were flush (only about 1/2" higher) and rolled my bars forward a touch.... it felt great.....however, when i took the bike out for a ride it was awfull.... i could not keep the front wheel on the deck and this lighter front end meant serious loss off grip etc....in short it made for awful riding and was imediatley put back to how it was..... just be carefull you dont go too high cos i reckon the higher your are and you shift that centre of gravity back the more likey you could encounter a similar problem.

thats just frickin awsome.....

well spotted eagle eye....

your both right....hammy ,i should have listened .... copemech, if you got the same problem then you'l know just how painfull it is..hahhaha when it does pop out and tear more muslce its proper rank. hahhaha the strange thing is, today after this second dislcoation, it does feel alot better. ..that tells me despite the xray showing it sat right in the ball and socket it must have been a bit askew... i have got alot more,pain free movment in it today.....they did say the end of the collar bone looked out of place too.....perhaps its set itself back in its proper palce this time.....who knows...hahaha not gonna chance another pop out tho cos its horrid so ill just take it easy for a few weeks.... might go for a putt round at the weekend tho...a friend has a new bike (new rider) and he's keen to get out...ill just tag along and bimble round to keep my hand in and make sure he's ok.... cheers for you support guys.... copey, it wont be long till im back on the bike, breaking it and asking stupid questions again......hahahah....stand by your beds.