myzeneye

im using castrol transmax dex 3 automatic transmission fluid (ATF), 50ml less then betas recomendation.... clutch works a treat.... that differance in 50ml of oil makes a differance... try it.

pictures please youz guys ?

im just in the process of installing a fully hardwired house alarm in my garage....(honeywell ade g4) bought on ebay (new) full house kit , alarm unit, keyad,bell box, door contacts, pir's cable, clips and fused spur box...everything ! £120...dead easy to wire too, all tamper proof. bike chained up too got some ground anchors in, they wont stop em but with slow them down and make themm ake a noise.... failing that it'll be the staffy out the door first, followed by me with my shotty. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honeywell-ADE-LCD-Accenta-8SP399A-Complete-Alarm-Kit-/160557507013?pt=UK_Burglar_Alarms&hash=item2561f921c5

ive got diadora..... they're crap really.... not at all waterproof, whopping great hole in the sole from kick start after an ordeal with a dicky stator.....and the leather seams to have dried out and doubled in size despite me cleaning and oiling them well ..... they've gone all baggy around the heel and sides on the instep....look like a pair of pasties on my hooves. new boots soon i think.... i like the natural leather look as oposed tot he coated types but ib be reluctant to do it again after these diddora ones, they take ages to dry cos the leather just sups it up like no ones business.....

cheers smudge, thats exactly the kinda review that helps.... the pocket on the leg...is it looses and left to flap around ? or fairly secure..... m

im after some new trial keks.... ive seen some on M.R.S website, clice kaos enduro.... they look pretty good, a cross between trial and mx pants, hard wearing and practicle with a pocket etc.... i cant find them anywhere other then mrs / any one seen them anywhere else ? does anyone have a pair they can comment on ? they look good... what do you reckon ? 2nd pair down - clice kaos enduro

if this doesnt work, test the cdi....

mine went bluey purple right before my stator threw its hand in.... timing was set up ok, around tdc... bike began running mega hot, exhaust started to get so hot it almost metled the pastic trim on the silencer and discoloured the plasctic of the rear mud gaurd........ mega hot. pretty soon after the stator threw its hand in. timing or stator related....

well spotted copemech... yes two different sound i guess.... we suspeted the kick mech parts and i think he replaced a bearing relating to the large kick gear... ? i will try moving the kick lever when its running to see if that affects the rattle..... and report back. we did try taking the kick lever off when it was running but obviously, doing that wouldnt do anything other then remove it,,, ill try moving it round whilst its knocking.... thanks cope

if you manage to get to the bottom of this problem, please let me know. my mates got a 2002 290 which does the exact same thing. ratlles when the bikes upright, gets worse if you lean it over to the right and ? goes away almost if you lean the bike over to the left....... ???? pulling clutch in and out makes no differance... his was fine and made no noise untill he attempted to bleed the clutch up. same as you, he's swapped a load of different bearing etc... my thoughts were towards the ballbearing at the end of the push rod... i believe if the rods is removed ,after a while wear to the end of the rod is created and a concaved dent is formed...this can create a tiny amount of play between rod and ball bearing... im told turning the push rods round the other way may works.....IF this is the problem...... as you say though, nothings ever that simple..... let me know how you get on please....

right, final update on this one... finally got the tank to sit right by bending the bracket for the cdi downwards a bit...this seemed to do the trick quite nicley... as for the set up and timing of the new stator.. the bike run spot on, couldnt be happier with it. any one reading this, faced with this kind of stator problem who isnt 100% on the mechanical side of things....dont panic, it was easy stuff.... im gonna strip the flywheel back off and retatrd the timing just a fraction as the bike was a tad too keen for me...but as for the way it run, it was bang on response wise.... happy days.... thanks for the help guys...

and with that kind of advice, my minds made up. gonna get a heavy duty tube tomorrow.

thanks for the comments guys.... pros and cons i guess..... the rim tape thats in looks ummarked.... infact it looks like it grew there i know if i start digging it out i will probably have a mare of a job cleaning it all up and getting the new rim tape to sit as flush in the grooves.... r kid suggested beading with silicon and i just laughed...perhaps it not a bad idea... he has some nasty horrid black stuff they use to bond windscreens in....bet that would do it.......... then again, the conclusion i came to was once i had blasted that kinda gook in the it would be horrendous to remove.... but as you say neo...and im the same..... sometimes you wonder why you bother going to all these limits...... thats why i ask.....shall i just bang a tube in.... ?

i cant, for the life of me repair my leaky back tyre.... rim band looks fine buts its leaking through the spokes etc.... i seriously debating chucking a heavey duty inner tube in...... im told ill have to drill the valve hole out a tad larger to allow the inner tubes valve and once ive done that im obvoiusly stuck with inner tubes forever....... are there any real dis- advantegs to me doing this ? how many of you are running on a rear innertube ? will my x11 tubeless tyre be ok with a tube inside? im sure it'll be fine but the thought of not being able to go back to tubless if i dont like it...well, youve just gotta ask first havent you.... cheers guys...

hahhaha glad its not just me being a dope then..... been working all hours at the mo' saturday evening im in the gargae with a few beers till its done. will report back sunday morning with details of how i have ended up strapping a 5litre fuel can to the frame with a million cable ties and a lentgh of garden hose pipe....

yes ive renewed the cdi as well as the stator... gonna remove cdi completly and try to refit tank without it just for my own sanity to see if it fits... ive looked at the bracket on the cdi, dont think ive done anything other then put it back exactly how i found it.... but it was snug fit to begin with to be fair.... ive been distracted in sorting other peoples bikes out this week, and mines just sat in the dog house.....minus its tank... will get onto it ....

still cant get the tank on without forcing it... anyways, for those folowing the thread re: the stator issues.... just to report back.... i took the bike for a wee bimble round the front garden today. its running spot on. really sharp on the throttle,clean, not running hot at all.... was a bit smokey at first but soom settled.... im really happy with the results and for anyone with no spark/dead stator/timing issues, who has never done this kind of job to their bike before, like me, dont panic...its pretty simple. the whole thing took about 5 mins to remove case, remove flywheel remove stator... the cable routing is what took the time really..... thanks for your help and guidance guys.... exactly what forums are for. now, off for another try at getting that bloody tank to sit right....

cheers ham, your a gent mate...ill give it a go tomorrow...allthough it all looks pretty much the same to me....? just thinking, maybe the radiator isnt sat fully home after me mauling it to route the cable up the inside of the frame..... ? doubt it, but ill check it.... as for the differance.......??? dunno but the bootom pic seems to have loads more room ???

hahhaa..thanks. preciate your honesty....now get busy hamburgeler your my only hope.

any joy with that camera ham, ive tried again tonight, its not havin it, i ended up changin my oil instead hahaha

ham mate that would be brill.... ive been carfull to drain the tank etc whilst its out of the bike but new cdi and look etc, cables re routed it just dont wanna go back on... i swear youll never see a neater wiring job can work out where im goin wrong.... post a pic, put me out me misery..... copemech....cheers dude, them measurments are very helpful.... ill stick with factory, thats where it was set....although i am tempted to retard it a little.........

right, ive been on it tonight...fettling.... changed plug back to statndard bp5es and had a fiddle with idle screw.... seems to run fine now.... still a bit hot on front pipe pretty quick from starting but other then that im ready to give it a test ride..... that is when i can get the friggin petrol tank back on !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! arrgrghhhhhh!!!!!! i thought the mither was gonna be in messin with timing etc..... no, its more simple then that. i fitted the new shortened racing loom, ive statshed all the plugs etc and connecter blocks as far in behind the cdi as possible.....honestly, you've never seen a tidier wiring job....but the friggin tank just will not go on right !!!! i dont want to force it, sods law it will split or eventualy rub through.....and man them tanks are expensive....... anyone been here before ?

ill investigate tonight tim.... ive got the timing set with the stators mark as you say, lining up with the right hand side of the casting lug holding the stator in place. if this is factory setting or, tdc, then that should give me no real problems with unburts fuel should it ?....what i dont understand is, if the mark on the stator lines up with that outside edge of the casting lug, how can there be any kind of mark to line up for retarding position.... or is it just a case of moving the mark a few mm beyond the edge of the lug??? jeez, theres no exact science here... i dont have a strobe and would know how to use one if i did..hahha but i just want to be sure im not gonna damage the bike before i go for a ripp on it.......... ill report back with fan time details later... thanks again...

thanks tim, i appreciate your response...and to be fair, i had'nt mentioned where i had bought the stator from, purposefully, as i am usually more then happy with the service i get from splat. i guess i was just expecting a proper "recon" type part, not second hand, bit raggard round the edges repiared job.....trust me, i want to get straight back out on my bike but i also want value for my money...at only 40 quid less then a new stator, that hall sensor must cost a fair few quid... however, you convinced me over the phone that the uprated hall sensor is what matters, so i took your expert advise and kept the stator. sorry, im just a fussy bugger. as for the picture, thanks for posting it... yes, thats where ive set it to... is that factory/ tdc in that position ? i ran the bike briefly to see it run and fire up etc... it ran for around 45 seconds (as it was a bit late at night.... ) in this short short time, the exhast was quite hot already...... from the marks on that picture...would full anti clock wise rotation of that stator, so it was at the end of the elongated parts, be fully retarded or are we only talking incremants of mm's ....?

no, sorry dude, it was origianlly set as follows : the chiselled mark on the stator lined up with the extreme right hand, outside edge of the square'ish block which the allen bolt srews into. the elongated slots are positioned more so to the right hand of the slot, as thought the stator has been rotated anti clockwise ( i beleive to retard)theire is still a little travell on the slots to go if i wanted to keep turning the stator anti clock wise but only mayebe around 5mm or so... what im thinking is..... i cant really make out the three timing marks which im told should be stamped into the crank case ( on the squarish block im talkin bout...) there are no real visible marks.... the slot in my stator is set to the extreme outside edge of this block, not a mm or two inside the edge, or in the middle or a mm or two from the right hand edge..... i know that probably sound like gobble de gook, its hard to explain.... when i look at marks stamped in case on photos in other threads like this, the marks are NOT on the extreme out side edge..(in effect, im using no mark,im setting the mark on the stator to the edge of this block where it would be physically impossible to leave or stamp a mark......) thats what tells me this is not right ! added to that, the bike runs double wicked hot. any one with a picture or diagram of an 03 (or there abouts ) bike, please please please, post a pic for me.... im chuffed that ive managed to do this job myslef, but i dont want to throw good money away and fry another stator. (as well as cook all the chrome finish off me exhaust (which incidentally was like brand spanking new, untill i run an irriduam plug and my bike satrted running hot and ending up like this....co-incident....maybe....???) thanks cope, im nearly there on this one... :thumbup: