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what a relief, treat yersel to a beer
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brucey, if the plug is sooty, then it's running rich and you may need smaller jets , and or lower the float level. have you tried ajusting the pilot screw setting? and maybe the needle clip? may just be due to flooding of the float bowl due to sticking or dirty float valve, that would be first thing to check.
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hi marty, it will be the anti drain vavle in the crankcase that is not seating properly and allowing the oil past when parked up.could be a weak spring or the ball not seating due to dirt or a dinged seat.
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NICE JOB ROLLOX, was just wondering if the 'power bulge' front exhaust pipe made any improvements....especialy the low speed running?
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please NO......a motorbike with zero noise......AAAAAAAaaaaaggggg!!!!! while an electric bike might do the job, i can't help thinking it just wouldn't feel right. the engine noise/tone kinda tells you whats happening with regards to grip and how much power you have or havent as the case may be. you ain't gonna get that with a silent battery motor.
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what i do is drill a couple of small holes opposite each other, then screw in some self taper srews, and pull out with some mole/vice grips.
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don't use castrol R, it goes 'off' very quickly and gums up the carbie. you be much better using one of the modern synthetic oils.
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nice pictures wet-feet, some very nice old brit iron there
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could the coil be braking down when it gets hot? same for the cdi unit.
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hi, you say the hone marks were still visable and fitted new rings......but did you glaze-bust the bore? this would be esential for getting the new rings to bed in.
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think you just take the cable off and your good to take the case off. no biggie, just put the same amount of tension on the cable when you refit....all good.
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Nice work Jenny, cool paint too, looks much better than the red or white ones !!!!!!
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we have a very similar problem here in N.Z. too. as everything here is geared for MX riders, you can pick MX knobblies up just about anywhere and dirt (sorry) cheep. where as trials gear and tyres are a pain to track down....and cost a fortune.
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YYYEEEEEeeeHAAAaaaaa!! result. glad the plug worked for ya.
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a very nice looking bike , and the guy has made a top job using quality parts (well done dale) which wouldn't be cheep. worth 6 grand???? doubtfull but you gotta pitch it somewhere and see the reaction. personaly, if i'd built it, i'd just want to go out and ride it
trev
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I'm using a NGK DPR 6 EA-9 in my 200, which seams to be working well for classic trials. If you were doing a long distance trial, i would proberbly go for a slightly cooler grade.....DPR 7 EA-9. Also the hondas are famous for the off idle cough...try richening the pilot mixture a bit.
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very nice looking bike . i can't beleive someone would go to all that trouble and not do what ever the motor needed to make it a peach. it's obviously had work, as it says it's 280cc (could be a triumph bonnie piston with shortened skirt:- 71mm bore x 70mm stroke = 277cc)and it's got a micky rooney carb. proberbly got a heavy crank and suitable cam in it too.
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Very nice indead .If you sell it (unthinkable) the buyer is going to get the benefit of all your hard work......and still get it dirty. That leaves you with only one option, take some photo's......go and enjoy the fruits of your labour.....then have a few well earned beers .In the words of Peckham's most famous son (Del-boy)....."you know it makes sence Rodney!"
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hi, try taking the shine off with some wet and dry, then stick on with RTV silicon (clear would be good). i have stuck stainless steel badges to ABS fairings with this method, and never had a fail.
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think your missing the point here.....a clue in what you said earlyer...."when the bike first came out, 32:1 was reccomended". there ya go dude,65 million years ago when the bantam first came out, the sh*te oil was reccomended at 32:1....but now with SYNTHETIC OIL you can use much leaner oil mix. i do agree however, that if you still want to use oil of dubious quality, then you need more in the mix.
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yes there is. think you need the stuff they use to undercoat car plastic bumbers and mirror shrouds. have a look at the local motor shop, they should have it in rattle cans.have a look in super cheep auto, i'm sure i've seen it in there.
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hi ralphy,
thats just what i did when i was modifying the frame . guess i was about right with it, as it feels good to ride and well balanced. tightened up the steering angle and softened the suspension too, so it's just about there, bar a few minor tweeks. may never be as good as a TLR.....but it's giving me lots of fun
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hi,
there was some one on hear asking a similar question for his panther trials hack. and 32:1 was a sugested figure, think he ended up around 29:1 and said it was a big improvement. have a look back through the pre 65 posts it wasn't too long ago.
ok, had alook through the posts, and the guy is called gautrek, and the post is titled gearing, on jan 17th.ok not a C15, but interesting. guesss there's lots of C15 guys out there will have their own take on the gear ratio.....watch this space
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thanks for that.any idea what the bar to peg distance should be?.....i just set mine up as best i could when i altered the frame. it was all guesswork, from when i used to ride years ago, but moved the footrests back a fair way.
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