bashplate

Hi, I'm running a 24mm OKO from Mid Atlantic (so a genuine one) junked the air box so using a foam pod filter and alloy exhaust with no back muffler. Pilot is #42 Main is #102.

Hi Feetup, how did you modify the trees to get paralel offset ?

81 and still out there doing it.....good on ya.

Hi Johnny, Yes I'm in NZ and regarding the wheels, these are factory for proper trials TLR's.....the reflexs came standard with the steel rims.

Looks home brewed

Sorry for double up my picture there. I moved my pegs down and back, and was well worth the effort, even easyer with the bolt on kit. I also used Betor 400mm shocks with 50lb springs....brilliant, the OZO shocks look exactly the same with different brand sticker and guys in the club have them...also good.

i had some from inmotion for my TLR200 Honda, and they were perfect, brilliant price too.

Sorted, gave it a good soak with CRC and then wacked it in the lefty loosy direction, spun out nicely.

Hi everyone, just wondering about the bearing retainer with the peg spanner holes.....is it normal right hand thread or left hand? As the holes for the pegs is only 1/8 inch, don't want to be smacking things the wrong direction, and at the moment it not movnig in either direction. Thanks foe any advice.

Hi folks, broke my ty175 front hub at the weekend. The brake plte says magnesiun on it, is the hub also mag or aluminium. Cheers, just wodering if it would be weldable.

I was talking to someone yesterday about TLM stuff and they reccon there's an outfit in Japan that has parts. Can't remember name of it though sorry, should have wrote it down.

proberbly about 400mm with 50 pound springs

is the little O ring around the main jet in the fuel bowl perished?

Well thanks to Charlies advice fitted new sprocket with 53mm od seal and looks good. Made a special nut and locking screws as standard nut fouls the chain.

crackin pictures, thanks for sharing

Mmmmm, interesting Charlie. no 2mm spacer behind the sprocket so may be why it snagged the seal.Just looking at the sprocket...if the shoulder the seal lip runs on was 40mm, would the 520 chain rub on it, looks very close even with the 37mm I have. Saying all that i am hopefully getting a new 11 tooth sprocket as this one is toast, but need a seal that will fit what ever size it turns out to be. Old bikes aye, so much has been done both good and bad over the years, they certainty tell a story!!!

Thank you Charlie, spun out housing measures about 53mm, so would make sense for out side diameter, no circlip groove or room for one.....but the part of the 11 tooth sprocket the i.d. rubs on is 37mm????. The 40mm i.d. you are saying was also my understanding, as it is the same as the engine sprocket on the crank seal, so not sure what's going on here....your thoughts are most welcome.

Latest up date, got the crank pulley off with another home made puller, gear box sprocket also off now too. So gear box oil seal dropped out as it had been spinning in the housing, no i.d. numbers on it as they all rubbed off. Part # BSA....41-3054 in the B44 parts book, is it the same for the B40 ( which my cases are), or is there a seal I can get from the local bearing outfit, had a look on web, but nothing seams to fit the bill. Hoping Charlie Prescott would have drifted by with his wealth of knowledge by now, may need to try him on the Otter site.

Having a problem getting the primary drive off, as I need to get to the gear box sprocket to replace the seal behind it. Got the clutch off the taper ok with a wee puller I made, but the engine sprocket is stuck on the crank with no room to get a 2 legged puller behind it and the chain....no threaded holes in the sprocket either. Any one had this and found a remedy?

Hi Stan, good point, hadn't thought about how it would alter the kick start revolutions. Will check out the revs per rear wheel ratio too. Motor is #1888. Cheers, Trev.

Hi folks, just a question for future sprocket alternatives. I have a motor which is B40 cases, with B44 crank and top end, 23 eng sprocket and 52 clutch....gearbox is 11 teeth with 55 on rear. I'm guessing standard side point motor gear box ratio's, but no clue realy. So bike handles sections in first gear reasonably well if not realy tight, and second good for hill climbs, so quite usable. Was just wondering if I went to a 18 tooth engine sprocket....I may be able to go up a tooth or two on the gear box and less teeth on the rear and shorter chain, and still lower the overall gearing slightly. Sounds feasable to me, but any input welcome. My biggest worry is the 18 tooth would put more strain on the gear box with the oompf from the B44 grunt. Cheers, Bashplate.

I think the late 70's early 80's, 4 valve XL 250 pistons fit no problem.

had a classic trial at the weekend....forks were brilliant, thank you IN MOTION for great service.

Parts arrived today, look good.....will fit tommorow. Super fast service from In Motion.😃