bashplate

For some reason the splines always seam to be very shallow, which seams syupid as deeper ones would help spread the load a bit.

well done mike, you have so many projects on the go it's amazing you get any finished!!!! guess not been married give you lots of nag free time....LOL

sickswan, if you just used 'ordinary' oil seals then even if right size they will leak. You have to use proper fork seals....I know all this because I had the same problem with a set of Ossa forks, fitted proper seals (for a ktm I think) and all was good.

dribble, dribble, oh my!!!!! that build is stunning

where did you find the carb Broony and has it still got the Enfield jets in there?

Hi Mike, don't know the lengths, but I had a XL500 way back in the piece and the left hand header (as you sit on bike) was twice the length of the right one.

Hi Chappo, I'm using 10 front and 48 rear....realy happy with this set up.

think the old CB750 piston fits.....but makes the cylinder liner VERY thin. So it's best to fit thicker liner to the barrel also.

James, not sure what's going on there, must be from a bad batch. My IRC's are 5 years old and no cracks at all.

I'm realy intriqued how you can modify a tubless bead to work on a tubed (DID) rim.

I agree with Dick, I need #3 mag for reading, but only #1 for long distance.....I have progressives for every day stuff, but just a pair of plain #1 for riding my bikes.

thanks JML, that video was the best yet at explaining what's going on with these techniques. I ride classic and post classic events and this will certainly help with my 1980's hondas, while not having the ZAP of modern bikes, I think practicing these will deffo improve my skill level.

I might have got this the wrong way round....but thought the IRC's were quite soft on the side walls, so would stand a bit more (2-3psi) in the tube, which will also help keep them on the rim.

your onto it John, every old classic has it's own foibles and so requires different riding styles.....adds to the fun aye?

​Cheers Johny, that just makes life soooooo much easier .

call me old fashioned, but I still use steel toe and instep industrial gum boots....cheep too.

Happy new year to all you trialers . I know the honda XR, TLR and the like have the same size of shaft and splines as Ty and early YZ yam's. Just wondering if newer bikes like the CRF 150/230 and newer Yamaha stuff still has the same shaftsize? as there's loads of alloy folding levers out there for the newer stuff.

Hundreds of superb pictures, well done. Looks like the trial had some nice sections too.

Hi Duncan, the flag system on multi route sections can look totaly bewildering to a newcomer, so don't be put off, you'll soon get the hang of it. Also don't think just because your on a twinshock you are disadvantaged, just get out there and have some fun, you will soon find some other rider to pal along with and build your confidence up, I've found most trials riders around the world are a very friendly easy going bunch.

motor is amazing, never experienced the beamish frame, but always thought they looked good. if it was me and i had the chance of a good example for reasonable coin, i would go for it, but that's just me.

thanks woody, will check out the seals

thanks guys. the chrome is perfect and there's 3 seals each side....from my understanding there should be 2 each side with a spacer between them??? how can you tell if seals are roundy round or up and down ones? they all 35x47x7 but 'outer' ones are blue...tothers are black.

Ok guy's, got a 250 Mar here with leaky fork seal (apparently) and bottoming out alot. On strip down the seals were immaculate with as new edges on the 'scapers' and the dust covers gripped the stanchions good. Stanchions good fit in the sliders, with clean ATF drained from them, though a minimal amount due to leakage. Just guessing here (not my bike) but looks like the oil had got past the seals and then trapped between them and the dust covers....then to the out side world. SOOoooo, would excessive compression tying down on a trailer force the oil past the seals??? or is there some other scenario which would explain how tiptop seals would leak? Any tips for improving while I'm in there like oil grade or damping hole modifications? springs are 19 inch long no spacers...the other posts I've seen say 17 inch is that with spacers? Cheers, Trev

Off the top of my head.....the multi connecter is for the lights and charging system, just unplug and ditch everything linked up to it. the other one with 2 wires are for the ignition. think the kill links in to the coil somehow. Be aware that theTLR CDI gets it's signal from the outer flywheel trigger, so there's a wire to power the CDI box and another for the coil... can't remember the colours and I'm p*ssed and it's dark in the shed!!!! There will be some one along soon of a more sober disposition, LOL

think they might be the same as one of the 125 models