bashplate

Thanks everyone, parts are now ordered.

Thanks Old Geezer, I had heard they were a good source for trials parts.....nice to have conformation.

Hi everyone, this post is in Honda too......looking for new fork tubes for my TLR200 and found some at IN MOTION in the UK. They do other 70'/80's bikes too.....Anybody tried them?

Hi folks, tubes are toast, so did a search for suppliers for new, not many out there but found some at a good price at IN MOTION in UK. Anybody tied them?, I see they do Bulto and KT's too. I'm in NZ.

Hi Titch, just been and measured a pair I have in the shed, they are 565mm long. Are you hoping to find some off a later bike with 30mm daimeter stanchions to fit the TYsliders? as I don't think the originals are available any more.

yes had a similar problem with a 175, the wee o ring did the trick.

nice work there buddy. I built a trials bike out of a xl200r about 10 years ago, as regards the suspension, I just backed all the settings to as soft as they would go and it worked realy well.

Hi Fordi, always buy mine from UK. They are cheep, but the cartage is high, so best to get a few sets as they weigh bugger all. You'll then have spares or some to sell on and cover some costs.

Thanks Bmonk, I'll grab 1 when the dealer opens in New Year.....or will any 'o' ring the right size stand up to the fuel?

Yeh, does it hot or cold. If turn throttle gently in lower gears up to 1/4 open, then motor revs cleanly, but go any more and will balk.

Hey 175 guru's, just getting a 1976 up and running again. Starts first kick and ticks over like a swiss watch....but open throttle past 1/4 and it just dies out. Is this the classic "o" ring around the main jet problem, or something else. Carb has been stripped and carbie clean/airline blown out.

that's definitly not right, I would be giving carb a full dismantle and make sure all jets and passages are clear...plus what's the state of the air cleaner? exhaust decoke may help too. Tidy bike, hope you can get it sorted and enjoy some classic trials.

As Swept section says about the self tapping screw method......done this many times and never failed.

jimyam...can you get it welded?

I'm with Stan on this....can't see any advantage with the cut down case....just seems like a lot of work for no gain and not so good looking in my oppinion too.

sorry Mike, photo bucket sabotaged my photo's

I agree....what a stunning bike

it only needs one more inch. that's what all the girls say Turbo.....

not sure that's right Allan......but either way, cutting the frame is WAAAAAAYYYyyyyyy cheeper than parallel trees.

know what your saying nigel....but if you get the motors working properly, then a decent clutch is worth the effort.

Nice pics...is that Statham's Quarry in Matlock?

didn't lengthen my swinger, but know some folks do as the front end does lift easyly on steep climbs. I don't have a problem with that as I move my body around to compensate, depends on your riding style.

nice job on the pegs there. what I did with my rake angle, was cut the top tube and mildly heat the down tube to the front of the motor, just bellow the bottom steering bearing. Did it all with the wheels still mounted, and pulled the front wheel in with a ratchet tie down strap between the front and rear wheels. Just pulled it back till it looked right, about 6mm gap ( may be 7mm) in top tube was about 25ish mm at the wheel base. Then just fill in the top tube with 1.5 or 2 mm plate. Keep the ratchet strap between the wheels while welding to help stop the top tube shrinking as you weld, as it will pull your wheel base out again very slightly.

big mike.....sorry about the pictures, they were on photobucket who have now held them to ransom.....not just me but lots of their users. so i need to find a new picture host before I can repost them on here.