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And there is no absolute exact setting, if there was there would be no reason to make it adjustable Idle speed is quick and simple enough The air screw is probably near 1.5 turns out, it's a sensitive adjustment but set the highest idle speed possible, start with full turns either way and listen carefully for changes in idle speed, then half turns, then quarter turns Make sure the engine is at full operating temp and you may need to adjust it from time to time with altitude and temp

I wanna see mandatory stop at certain points in a section Howzat for a concept !!

And lowering or raising the foot pegs drastically affects the balance of the bike The bike will pivot around the axles on both axis and where the weight is applied to the chassis has a huge effect Look at bicycles, bottom bracket height on mountain bikes are -50mm or more and trials bicycles can be as much as +80mm and the balance effect is very substantial

I think you are going a wrong direction with the shifter, if you spin the wheel and you can see the clutch slipping don't start looking at the shifter If you leave the lever alone and wiggle the clutch pack is it slightly loose or is it tight? The pressure play should squeeze the plates tightly together You probably have mis assembled the clutch

Ya you want to be carefull around a plug cap when you are pulling it off It's gonna really want to find ground and you don't want to be it

Looking at it from a detached position what you are buying is a non running bike It's a very different story if you can drive before you buy it Dead bike is worth half to 1/3rd of running bike simply because you have questions and no answers It's worth it's scrap value and my guess would be $200 - $300 bucks and I might be shooting high there

It's actually a lot weirder than most people think Paul is right in the "Acts like" comment because they use chemical effects to make oil have different characteristics without actually having higher viscosity, it doesn't get thicker when hot And gear oil being 75 or 90 wt actually have nothing really to do with viscosity it's merely to differentiate it from engine oils on the shelf Anyway viscosity is just there because we consumers recognize it, it's less about pour ability than it is about other characteristics

Seal it?

I don't think it's float height Even if it was adjusted wrong it should not overflow And remember, it probably didn't do it new and now it does so something has changed and floats don't adjust themselves So its needle sealing, it's the only wear item in the area and it will change with time Replace the needle (it has opened and closed hundreds of thousands of times, it's tired) Use a Q tip and a little tooth paste and polish up the seat and of course set the float height correctly

Dad brought up a good point about fire not being possible inside the exhaust, One: there is not enough oxygen to sustain combustion unless your engine is misfiring Two: your exhaust is an incredibly violent place with shock waves and high velocity gasses, a flame has no chance It is however possible to get the exhaust pipe temp to a point above the burning point of whatever combustion goop we have in the pipe, it will cook off and eventually become a carbon chunk to be spit out the silencer, but there could not be a flame in the pipe when the engine is running

K here's what I do, don't even bring fuel, just a new excuse each time you meet your buddies "Dang my gas was stolen" "My dog ate it" You know, that kind of thing Sponge a couple liters of fuel from random riders Pay no attention to brand or ratio and your life will be much richer for it

That is an interesting question huh It makes me wonder though, if. Dab is to solve a loss of balance then dominantly dabbing with the left would mean dominantly losing balance to the left and not to the right.....Right? Really it should be 50/50 unless all sections have only left turns for example Thinking about it I probably dab most with my left (and I'm left handed) but a lot of my dabs are lack of confidence, like my brain says "whaddya thinkin! You can't do that!!, Better dab"

Simple, try each ratio from 32:1 up to 80:1 testing HP engine temperature and engine wear at each step until you find the perfect ratio for your particular bike, riding style and rider weight Each step needs to be done at several different ambient temps, humidity and barometric pressures And please submit a full report of your findings You will need a lot of spark plugs, base and head gaskets, pistons rings and various other parts Oh and keep your air filter clean

Lots of people say "I do all my own work" but really Some of them should do none of it Hard to believe they can be so bad at mechanical things but think they are doing it right I think maybe they feel better after waving a wrench around their bike even if they make it worse

Does the brake work properly? If it requires bleeding it would have air in it and it would be spongy If it needed rebuild it would be leeking or would need to be pumped at least a couple times to make pressure If it's just short travel and has powerful braking then it's not faulty it just needs adjustment or like the guys mentioned clean and lube the pivot

I dunno man Here's my thoughts on the purpose of sag I'm traveling at high speed and I hit a hole, sag allows my wheel to drop into the hole so the entire bike does not, to maintain traction And at high speed it allows my wheel to drop into the hole so I don't feel the bump Due to the low speed nature of a trials bike, the purpose of sag is not the same as a MX bike So why use the same theory?

Hey that was good to watch, keep it up Thanks

I think one of the problems is with the level of quality and performance that is being made Compare it to cars, if the same model were applied all manufacturers would be making their equivalent of a Ferrari and no one would be making a mustang or camaro for substantially less money Or compare it to street bike manufacturers making only big bore race bikes Everyone competes for the same high end customer and no one can sell enough volume Sure it pushes development but we do need a cheep entry level bike I wonder if it's a case where manufacturing costs are not low enough on the entry level stuff to get the price tag down Or the ego of the big names involved with the new brands won't allow them to walk before they run

I'm with Dad on the ATF thing, not so much because of viscosity but the purpose is just not correct Having said that,saying ATF is like saying motorcycle There are many different kinds for many different characteristics, none of which describe a motorcycle transmission Did you get all the water out? You would be very surprised how much water can be held in suspension, whoever said oil and water don't mix was wrong

LOL, I going to look for some recycled 2 stroke oil today

We have week long arguments about ratio and now you want to start a Brand thread Omigod.......

I have never heard of using WD40 as lube, maybe for a door hinge or something but not long after it starts squeaking again, it just disappears, I heard that WD stands for water dispersant I use WD a lot but only as a solvent You can use street chain wax, it does not fling as much, I lube up then spray WD on a rag and give the chain a wipe down just to take the goo off the side links, then dust does not stick so bad

Sorry, were you referring to the seal cup ring thing? Ya it lt looks upside down Oops LOL

Man .......what makes people work on their bike when they don't have a clue LOL, I have been doing this since about 1982 and I have never seen anyone dig a fork seal out with a screwdriver but that sure looks like what happened there I would just use a very small amount of gasket sealant only on the area with the gouges, don't put it all the way round the seal, it's not likely to leak there anyway The slider looks right to me, I don't think there is an upside down to them, you couldn't put it in any other way anyhow

I put new o rings in mine and it still leaked, used the red high temp exhaust sealant Apply to both clean surfaces and assemble Leave it 24 hours before you start it