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There is no adjustment, typical of hydraulic brakes is that it's self adjusting for pad wear You could try pulling the caliper and pushing the Pistons back in to see if they are stuck in the caliper Bear in mind the fluid goes back to the master, it may overfill so don't use a clamp or you could blow up the reservoir Also make sure your wheel brgs are not the culprit, even a tight axle can cause drag

It's a weird problem, and I can only think of 2 causes Over filling the tank, expansion as the engine heats the tank and fuel Does it still happen with a half tank of fuel? Fuel vaporizing in the tank, vapor condensing in the hose as it cools Is there something causing the bike to operate at a higher temp? Is there any heat shielding that was perhaps removed or never installed from the factory Does this bike have a hotter fuel tank than others? , one of those spaceman temp Ray guns would answer this question OH and let's not forget, is there any modification to the bike at all?

All disc brakes run Zero clearance, always contact but there should be very little friction

In theory the hydraulic slave should make that adjustment largely redundant Maybe there is a point where it's just too far off spec but it's not likely

But make sure the sparking spark plug and the fuel don't become too friendly Fire is both friend and foe Maybe put an alligator clip right on the terminal and connect it direct to ground so ther is no spark jumping a gap

Fat guys can bowl, play darts and shoot pool Fit is better at averything else, I'm never going to be convinced a beer belly is an advantage at anything

Well I'm a believer of decontaminating brake pads with brake clean and pressure washin the pad faces out of the bike but I think I will refrain from bake and douse If had something scientific like specific temperature to heat and time to quench from a brake disc manufacturer I might pay more heed I am a hobbyist knife maker and that tought me about different properties of different types of steel and the temperatures involved to harden and temper, you never quench in water, oil or heated salt solutions are used In this case I doubt you could get the metal warm enough to do anything more than take hardness out of the steel, but to do that you want to cool it as slow as possible, not quench at all, in fact you wrap it in insulation to slow the cooling process So it sounds odd

Anyone explain how the water thing helps? If you take steel and heat it then quench it rapidly it increases hardness One would think that increased hardness would adversely effect friction I'm not gettin why this does anything at all

Put a spark gap tester on the bike If it jumps a 15mm gap then you have no ignition problems, First basic beginning of diagnosis is Spark or Fuel, eliminate one and you can stop feeling you're way through the dark Good luck

This is easy Get all of them

Oven cleaner

Also make sure you don't have the reservoir too full

Maybe you should just never remove your gloves.......ever

This is gonna sound weird But riding trials has even made low speed riding on big fat touring bikes much easier. The only thing trials has not improved is my penmanship and my eyesight......and maybe cooking!

Yes Angle torque is very popular in many engines often with single use bolts that must be replaced after one tightening

Mine was just awful to shift when hot too until I did the glue scrape I tried a few oils but nothing made it better, I did notice some made it worse I can't imagine any lubricant that makes the plates swell but oils have a characteristic called ramp effect which causes high load areas to kind of load up with the particles and multi weight oils have a chemical reaction to heat that cause them to act like higher viscosity oils, it doesn't actually get thicker or heavier but it pretends that it does with I think long strand polymers, that can make for more or less drag Anyway every oil does something different and there is a characteristic in every oil that is suited to a certain purpose, no bad oils, just bad for certain applications, perfect for others

I hate to be the one to say it but it kinda sounds like you are not the one who should be working on the bike until you get some more knowledge, taking a carb off to look at it and putting it back on untouched just gives potential for more mistakes If you start the bike and it stalls after 5 seconds and you do that several days in a row all you are doing is fouling the top end with fuel, it's all choked up now Toss the old plug regardless how it looks to your eye as you cannot see carbon tracking Start the bike and get off the choke immediately and run it til it's warm As for diagnosis you need to have a second opinion on wether the bike has a problem or you have to just learn the starting and warmup process and maybe how to adjust the pilot air screw

Question has been asked a dozen times If the master won't pump it's because it has a bubble and it cannot pump air First bleed master, finger over the banjo bolt hole Then bleed hose, pinch caliper end in fingers Then bleed caliper with the piston pressed all the way in Burp the banjo bolts along the way while bleeding

Motorcycles are all the same, why not just learn to ride the bike rather than try to make it something it's not After all you learned to ride a pedal bike and drive a car etc Just ride

In most cases rod and wrist pin bearings are either good or very bad, when they go south it happens Very quickly in human time and usually shows overheated (coking) on the rod Very unlikely and usually the engine stops running or has a horrible rattle And you will feel some side to side play as the lower bearing is quite narrow

You should be able to order up what you need to make a hose, all they use are compression fittings I would try and keep the hose I.D. As close to stock as possible

Why would you jump in feet first to kick a guy in the teeth I thought this inter web thing was for mature adults to enjoy each other's company

Chose your friends wisely and you will never need to carry tools

Hey Ben looks good, nice riding

I'm confused, you extended the fork and oil shot out past the seal? Why would you have to undo the bolt on the bottom of the fork?