0007

Remove hose from master, bleed master Attach hose, bleed hose disconnected from caliper, pinch the end between fingers and bleed Connect hose to caliper, bleed until you want to kill yourself or until you have pressure whichever comes first, burping it at the banjos during the process

Is there more to the story about the original cause? Did it start slipping after you installed a new lever or did some work or something or did it just gradually get worse

I did it

There is no required idle speed but rest assured that when you become comfortable with riding you will settle your idle speed to the same as everyone else It's just how trials works and you won't be the one guy idling at 1000 rpm trying to convince everyone it's the hot new thing

I find it odd that although not one single chain manufacturer recommends or makes anything even remotely similar to WD40 So many people want to use it or similar for lube It's kinda like saying, "those 2 stroke oil manufacturers are all nuts, I use sewing machine oil, and you should too" Try this, lube anything with WD and then give it a blast with an air hose, then try that with chain lube One is a high pressure lube and the other is to remove high pressure lube Maybe the chain companies are not as dumb as you think

I would do a compression test first before doing anything Also check your spark plug cap resistance or failing that just replace it

Oy.........I use WD40 and the like to remove oils and greases, it's not lube no matter what they say I'm prolly just gonna use Chain lube like I have been since 1980

Practice on low consequence stuff like short small drops but treat them like bigger ones

It's such a basic system that the problem will be visual Is there more history? Brake pads worn to steel at some point and damaged the disc? Bike modified with different master? Normal looking parts won't do it here must be more to the story

Radiator mount?

I agree with Dan, remove the plug cap and measure resistance, it should be 10k or less Causes the resistor in the plug to fail, puts a severe load on the rest of the system

I do like the lanyard idea but neutral is a pain to find, it's more time consuming to find neutral than it is to just stall it in gear and restart, I don't even use the kill switch Also it's far easier to find neutral when the engine is not running by the way I think front tire pressure sometimes depends on how you ride, I'm kind of heavy on the front for some reason and I bonk the rim a lot on rocks, the sidewall of my front tire is chewed up as evidence so I like 7 lbs there but rear as low as 3.5 but not in rocky terrain

Ya I think the people in charge need to find speakers who can either be the expert or they should put someone with them that can be the expert Look at American supercross coverage Outstanding with a professional commentator who is like able, then Jeff Emig, Ricky Charmichael, Jeremy McGrath to add color, they put in injured competitors like Chad Reed sometimes These guys do it right

I only use WD as a degreaser and water dispersant but never as a lubricant, it's pretty much kerosene or light solvent but it's a bad lube especially in high load situations I don't even spray it on squeaky door hinges anymore cuz a couple weeks later the squeek comes back If you don't like sticky, try chain lube but spray it from the inside of the chain Then spray down a rag with WD and wipe the chain clean so the outer links don't have the gooey lube on them and nothing to stick to

Well......you either love you bikes a lot or you are bored Never met anyone who removed and soaked his chain every ride or removed the bash plate every ride Good on ya for your dedication though

I ....uhh...... I'm not sure how you get to the point of owning a pair of shiny tights... My girl has them and I'm pretty happy when they are in use but (pardon the pun) Not judging but wow do I ever NOT want to be in cue behind you

Dan put a lot of technical description in there and it looks to make good sense IMHO I don't think sag has as much importance in a low ground speed vehicle as it does in a fast vehicle IE a MX bike or street bike You can never really have 0 sag but to simply set it at the same spec as a regular dirt bike makes no sense to me

Hang on there So you are saying that while riding sometimes you pull the lever and it doesn't dis engage? Or After sitting for a period you start it and it takes off when you put it in gear If it's the latter it sounds like you have the classic clutch stick

Vacuum bleeder isn't really neccesary, but you still start at the beginning and bleed the master, if it's not pumping fluid ...............

First bleed the master Pump it a few times, hold the lever in and crack the banjo bolt, do this until you get no air Remove the slave, press the piston all the way in and put a clamp on it Then bleed for about 10 hours til you eventually get the hose free of air (total pain as the master flows very small volume) If you have a vacuum bleeder you could suck the fluid from the master down to the slave which works a lot better

If you want to see of its clutch drag try this Clutch pulled in, load up the shifter with your foot like you are trying to find neutral Keep consistent pressure and press the kill switch If the trans shifts as soon as the engine stops then it's clutch drag If it is still hard to shift then it's shift drum or maybe bent shift shaft I ales hear that the plate holding the pins in the shift drum can be sloppy and add flex to the mechanism

Swap out your combustion chamber?

How about small wheelies and bringing it back down with the rear brake

Wow that was big one, takes me back to the peak of the 500 2t bikes

Why do you want to force yourself? If you need it you use it So why force yourself to use it when you don't need it