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It's either that or you poured your gas into the silencer outlet, read the owners manual On the good side your exhaust is getting a good cleaning It's a Leaky needle, you shouldn't travel with the fuel turned on but it should not leak anyway

Oh don't forget "What's the best bike"

Pssssst, threads on oil tend to cause 3 weeks of arguing and no real answer Pass it on

Seals are more like a one way valve, they keep the oil in the fork but they are not real good at keeping stuff out so after a while they tend to suck air in and a slight amount of air pressure develops, it's like adding spring preload So you bleed the pressure off I don think it's much of a deal on a trials bike but dirt bikes it's pretty important, old bikes had Schrader valves on the caps, you can buy bleeders for new dirt bike forks, some have a little screw

Maybe it's not Monsters choice They probably want him to be at a hundred events a year shaking hands and kissing baby's, he may have said Fuggit

Does the oil smell like fuel? Sticky float would do this

LOL, I'm gonna go drop my fluid levels to lower the weight of my bike Having worked for a manufacturer for over 15 years I can tell you they have politics, joint agreements with oil manufacturers, warranty and other things to consider Conservative jetting and oil ratio are only 2 examples that apply to this conversation I bet the oil ratio the engine designer runs in his own bike would vary from the info the compliance department directs the literature department to print in the owners manual of brand X bike (Note: this does not apply to the Japanese who would not vary from manufacturers reccomenation) Dadof2 is 100 % right in his comments, it may not work for me and others but is working just fine for him just like higher ratios are working for others, lots of people are right on this subject Cheers

Harley riders use their middle finger a lot too..... Wait not so much for clutching though... I agree it helps a lot to move the perch over so you have more leverage on the master and the end of the lever has more range of motion as well, easier to modulate engagement Tape your middle finger to the next one so you can't use it, it will help to break the habit

The arrow toward the exhaust, the rings have a. Locating pin so you can't really do it wrong I doubt it was rough ports, that would only drag straight up from the ports anyway, not all the way round I believe in Ochams razor, the simplest most obvious answer is usually the correct one That being dust through the intake or crud entered when you had the top end off Just lightly oil the top end, you don't need a lot And there's no point in breaking it in again, I'd say it's already happened, unless you are replacing the rings just ride it Have you measured ring end gap? Only takes a minute

Low speed jetting, (pilot and needle) are all related to signal strength, basically suction at the Venturi If a pilot needs to be richened after reed install that means the reed is opened further and the amount of vacuum is decreased, so larger pilot is required to get the same amount of fuel through it The reverse is true, greater vacuum requires smaller pilot It's the same if a large bore carb is fitted, larger jets are required as vacuum is reduced The angle on the slide also changes vacuum at the Venturi

Man do I ever find it hard to believe that someone would finance such an endeavor Too many major brands in such a small market At best they will make something that is as good as what you can buy today at the same price It's not good enough to make and excellent bike, thats already been done I think there is room for something other than high end competitors to Beta, gas gas etc Perhaps reasonable quality but inexpensive entry level machines or a great development of electric models perhaps, or even cheap modern retro twin shock bike

I like the Japanese way in that almost everything is grounded through the harness, they have far fewer electrical problems that way Strange though, a bolt on connector with all that surface area should have so much opportunity to ground yet it's prone to failure

Is it excessive noise from the bottom end or is it locked up? Neither one is good I sure hope it's not a leaky seal

Ya I used to have one just like that, it was an Italian model and was the rattle was very dramatic I knew the newer version I had would end up exactly the same as it was exhibiting similar symptoms and costing me a lot of money so I got rid of both of them a few years ago

That ll teach me for skimming the post and not paying attention

Ya, nice, good skills

Hmmm, repairing a ground should not fix a kill switch that is stuck in the kill position If the the ground was open then the kill being stuck in kill position would result in the bike being unkillable, not a loss of spark That make sense?

It's probably got more to do with bar position and hand placement or something Maybe roll your bars fwd or back or trim your grips maybe? If you are not using gloves meant for riding then maybe you should Where are your blisters forming and is it the same on both hands ?

Most auto ranging meters wouldn't say .283 thousand ohms It should say 283 ohms You sure the meter had that on it?, or is a not auto ranging

You better get on it, you only have 30 good years left It's not about being a great rider anyway, it's about enjoying riding and all the great people who ride with you

I don't see what lineaway is seeing When you have a Rod failure you take it apart because it stops running or is making severe knock, when a rod goes it stops running in well under a minute What happens is the lower rod bearing and cage come apart and migrate up the transfer ports, the debris catch between the edge of the piston and the cylinder and there is baaaad damage, long scratches above the transfers, it's generally fairly large pieces not tiny dust size stuff Also the piston and head as well as the spark plug get sandblasted, often the debris closes the plug gap stopping the engine, the bearing, cage and thrust washer are extremely hard material compared to the aluminum piston and head It does however look in the photo to have a lot of light vertical scratching in the bore but I don't know if it's just reflection or not, need a naked eye on that If the light scratching is there it's probably more poor air filter maintenance than rod bearing failure Edit: Ya after a second look there is a great deal of scratching in the bore but again, more likely to be dust ingestion or perhaps ring end gap is too tight (called ring butting) often it does more damage than that though

Re using a head gasket is probably ok but it's got properties that only are meant to work once, crush and adhesion for instance I would use a sealant with an adhesive property, remember many gasket sealants become lubricants at high pressures Never heard of grease on a gasket, I have always believed in clean and dry to make the surfaces mate, grease would do the opposite and make them ever stick to each other

I think a trials bike is probably a hard engine to get jetted right, might be different for different people I would be happy with a carbon spot of almost any size on the piston crown, yours is clean or washed down The theory is for power reasons you need your combustion temperature and therefore piston crown temperature to be high enough to burn the fuel mix onto the crown Rich means cooler temp, lean would put carbon to the edge of the piston Obviously this is easier on an engine run at full throttle at controlled temperatures and atmospheric pressures, loads etc There are about a million variables making jetting a very unique to location and rider kind of thing And compounding this you need to set your main first and then your needle, your pilot always flows fuel but only has a minor effect on needle and main circuits At least 20 seconds at above 3/4 throttle with moderate loads and pull your plug immediately should put you on the right path for main jet setting and then same time at 40 - 60% throttle to set your needle Make a mark on your throttle housing and grip with whiteout so you can judge opening Take your time and enjoy

Dadof2, just avoid quoting the entire post Thanks for the info, engine testing is very interesting stuff, do you do this kind of work? I like to see how and why things happen in engines, amazing how subtle changes make radically different results Q: for curiosity reasons, were the engines air cooled? (Chainsaw) On a waterbrake dyno (rpm controlled by load or electronically limited) Was there any detonation (detonation applies shock wave loads to rings, damaging ring land etc etc) I remember reading about Jeremy McGraths Honda CR from 2004 era and they were running 24:1 if I remember correctly but that engine was somewhere in the neighborhood of 70hp and run about as hard as an engine could be run, these factory engine builders are full of secrets so there is no way to know what makes an engine like that survive at that power level

I think the Techno has drain screws on them, if you are not changing seals you don't even have to remove the wheel let alone the fork Like mentioned, loosen the top clamp before you try to remove the cap