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I wasn't calling you out on that one, I just didnt think it sounded right with the reduced slippage thing They have a 2 stroke oil with RS on it so it doesn't quite jive It's only automotive "Energy conserving II" oils that affect clutches and 4 stroke starter clutches, MC synthetic oils are OK

LOL "New and improved oil that's not as slippery as our old oil" Reduced slippage = Increased friction??

Before you do that, start at the beginning - Pull the lever off and lube the pivot - Make sure the lever is not bent - Is your lever stock?, see if you can get a long lever - Move the master in on the bar so you are pulling the lever at the end where you have the most leverage If the easy stuff above are all proper then maybe you will want to remove springs but you will get slippage in high gears, I never felt my Rev had a stiff clutch feel

What level of alcohol is in your fuel? In Canada pretty much everything has 10%, by law they don't have to tell you until it has more Can you be sure there is no alcohol in Av Gas?, I don't really know much about the stuff What effect does the alcohol level have on your bikes?, what problem are you trying to solve?

Curious why you want to use 100 octane fuel? Have you made substantial compression mods to the point where you can no longer use pump gas due to terminal detonation? On a basic unmodified engine high octane fuels cause a significant decrease in horsepower

Oooof, I hate pulling a motor apart looking for a noise Seen this a hundred times where you cannot see the source of the sound you heard At the shop I'm at we try to find a cause before we tear down, tear down is to verify the suspected cause, not the sole source of diagnosis Any way, apply Ochams Razor (Wikipedia that) The simplest most obvious conclusion is usually the correct one, if your top end bearing was not intended to be cageless then you likely have found the cause of the noise, however, it could be a result/symptom of the root cause Detonation is normally the cause of small and big end rod brg failure, the bearing is not the cause So, during diag you need to see if you have detonation or you will be repairing a result and leaving the cause alone to come back and break your bike again Like replacing tire tubes over and over without looking to see if there is a nail in the tire

I don't know, there is no compression fit on that bearing, it is not pressed onto the stem like the lower race If compression/press fit is not the cause then thermal expansion would not be the solution I spoke with a fellow who removed the top nut from the top triple clamp and thought the stem would pop out, didnt know there was a nut under the top clamp

I changed my bar angle to slightly fwd of vertical, it's better in a section but not so comfy on roads etc Spring spacers cannot make the fork stiffer, they can only change ride height by increasing pre load Think of it this way, if a spring can hold 100 lbs, it doesn't matter how much preload spacer you put on it, 100 lbs will always take it to full compression A spring with fewer coils and or thicker wire makes springs stiffer

That is a very unusual thing Generally that is a fairly loose fit and the stem usually just drops out of there with no effort Can you post a picture of the stem ? Is there visible rust/corrosion between the bearing race and the stem?

Ryan Young teaches that you set up your front and rear suspensions independent on one another not by pushing the bike down in the center It's probably as much riding style as anything, so many different set ups and no one can really tell you how to do yours Take your tools to your favorite section and spin the screws

I would do yourself a favor and just fix it properly as quick as possible to save you and your buddy friendship hassles in the future Next year you will chuckle about it rather than you feeling burned

Sometimes I put a zip tie on the hose when necessary to keep it tight

The cold stick is an easy fix, I wouldn't do the file and polish of the fiber plate tabs but removing the glue makes a big difference Also make sure you are getting adequate disengagement at the clutch pack, I think it's about .040 thou or .10 mm Make sure your lever is not bent

Careful with riding over ragtops

It certainly could happen Clutch master is gravity feed, when gravity is on the wrong side air could be at the pick up hole in the master that normally has fluid at it You could get a small bubble into the master/piston or into the banjo bolt I would not try to bleed it all the way through, just burp the banjo bolt and see if air comes out

I actually like downhills, I seem to have better control of my weight bias and balance A guy told me once to just stop worrying about being able to stop, you don't stop going up why would you need to stop going down and you can ride down as fast as you can ride up I say that to myself all the time and it helps me Now can anyone help me with the transition from uphilll to a tight turn over debris to going back down? That one is my problem and I mess it up all the time, crashed hard last time I was out on that one

Ryan Young has some great training videos Having it described in writing is not going to work, it helps to see it happen and it helps even more if someone videos you attempting it, you can compare your movements to a pro

Certainly correct but I'm a believer in finding a way to measure, that is diagnose Once again I say Gap tester, it answers all question as to having spark or not No speculation

Or if you don't see spark, hold the plug in your hand and kick the bike

You are missing something If it dies, then you put a plug in it and it starts It doesn't have an ignition problem A new plug won't fix the coil You need a gap tester, if its jumping the gap after the bike stops then its not the ignition system

Ya those things get a worn needle and seat, maybe you are just running rich and it's fouling plugs

Not likely you developed two different problems at the same time Perhaps In a frenzy you injured the kill switch when the engine was screaming The boot on the air box side could not be the cause, there is no vacuum on that side

If your spark plug fails its likely a bad plug cap Remove it and test resistance, it should be 5000 or 10,000 ohms If its slightly different don't worry but if its radically higher it fraps the resistor in the spark plug itself and you get no spark

Another happy Airoh owner here, I would buy another for sure I like how the liner comes in and out, it's good quality and easy to clean I also like the snap strap, I can use it with gloves And lastly, I looks like it was made for Star Wars movies.......I like that

Those two things do separate suspension actions Spring gives you your ride height and travel rate Oil can increase damping You cannot improve one by adjusting the other, take the time to decide which component is the problem and change it I'm a 200lb guy and had to change my springs, damping was not my problem