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There are a ton of snowmobile gloves out there that are ideally suited to winter trials Have a look at Klim and Scott gloves

Sounds like he kinda chopped the throttle right at the top, then as soon as he felt it kick he got on the gas to try and correct I bet there's some bruises on that guy LOL

Brilliant, it's actually kind of sad that Bou gets all the glory when there's riders of this caliber out there And Sergio is the best, love that guys work

I agree with Dan, I had an 07 Rev, loved it and the first time I rode an 010 I felt it was just plain easier to ride, went where I wanted it to go and required less attention It let me concentrate more on what I'm doing rather than trying to control balance The Rev is awesome, but the Evo is better And I think there are the same to start One thing, I think the Rev was better on steep climbs

Ferrari's and Porshe's have gotten too small, I can't fit a sheet of plywood in my Testarossa Maybe the measurement of the bike shouldn't be how well it performs when you are not on it Couple guys I know sit when they have to paddle, pretty interesting to watch the riding style of Jarvis and Walker etc in the exteme enduros, always hard on the seat when they push with a foot and I can't believe the traction they get

LOL, WFO does work huh, top of a hillclimb usually has my bike puffing smoke pretty bad I don't see any serious amount of carbon causing power issues, for carbon to form the metal needs to exceed the combustion point of the oil/unburned fuel, not likely to happen in an exhaust system It's pretty much liquid goo plugging the silencer packing so it stops being a silencer, I don't think it causes a power loss

Burp it at the banjo bolt, treat it like a bleeder

Sounds like you are trying to pull the bike up with your elbows which is not transferring your weight by decompressing the fork After you knee bend and compress the forks you let your arms straighten when you move back You barely need any throttle at all when you do it It gets hard when you are doing this into a log or rock step cuz it puts step after step after step In rapid succession

You just kinda rip it outa there, it's a plastic ridge that slides up between the liner and the shell

I have a process to get over the first section jitters Always Five the first section in the stupidest looking way you can Sometimes I go over the bars and lay in the dirt That way you know you can improve

There is a lot of snow ski stuff out there that works, it's knee height I would work on stretching the boot to work Get them hot with a hair dryer and crank em up tight with a pair of thick socks, walk around the house and do lots of deep knee bends Also alcohol in a little spray bottle will let the leather streach Worked great for my Novogars

Well there's are 3 reasons to have a rider on a team 1) He wins races and therefore sells bikes for the manufacturer 2) He makes people watch races and therefore sells bikes for the manufacturer 3) He is a development rider and excels at making the bikes better, makes the fast guy faster And perhaps a 4th, he brings major sponsors to the team, if he leaves maybe the guy with the checkbook leaves too Look at motocross, how did Kevin Wyndham stay in his position as long as he did Not cuz he dominated the podium For no others reason than the fans loved the guy, he was good for the team and Honda in general

My brain just burst into flames I have never seen how combustion chamber volume relates to compression ratio but just to mess with you further I would expect somewhat of an exponential change in combustion pressure and temperature when compression is reduced I would still look at a 200 but if you are sold on engineering a change like this I would go with a combination of stacking base gaskets to raise port height as well as a small change in compression

Wow, compression reduction of 30% is huge if your calculation is correct That will massively change the combustion pressure and temperature, big change in power, jetting and running condition Basically it was not designed to run well with a major drop in compression like that so you are kind of making a prototype I think I would opt for the 200cc top end if possible

If you don't have a clear symptom then you don't have a problem Typically: the piston being aluminum will wear at the very least the same rate as the hard steel ring, it's unusual in a 2T to just re ring for wear if there are a lot of hours on the motor and it's just worn out then it will act rich and rattle The piston being loose in the jug and the ring being worn so as to loose compression Rings can be damaged on break in or lose spring tension or distort due to overheating which could cause a loss of compression without being out of spec end gap wise, in this case you would measure Free end gap So if your engine seal is not weak ie loss of compression / gradual rich ending of the mixture and needing to jet leaner than other riders/bikes and corresponding rattle, then there is no symptom = no problem

I get it, I would disco that hose you did The vent needs to have a top and bottom for a couple of reasons most people won't believe LOL

The carb vent is not really a "Vent" it only needs to sense atmospheric pressure so float height can be consistent, there is not really a lot of air transferred through the hose The tank needs to slowly draw air so fuel can flow out to the carb or push air out in the case of expansion so pressure won't push the needle open, and in the even of an upside down it will puke fuel but that's not what it is intended for You shouldn't really have fuel getting into the carb vent hose, I'm not sure what effect it will have but it should be momentary if there is one Did you add a Tee to connect the tank vent to it?

Well the top end of the pilot circuit and the bottom side of the needle circuit sort of coincide It's kind of unusual to need to move the clip to that position when other riders don't I suspect the is is something else going on and adjusting the needle is masking it Has the float height been lowered substantially at any point?, fuel level will effect the same circuit

I have a similar problem with the end joint of my thumb, when it sticks I can force it back but it goes "Snap" I think it's a Tendon or cartilage problem, maybe hyper extended?

Ya, 6004 is a very common size, easy to find

Move the master inward on the bar so you get as much leverage as possible Dan talks about removing 2 springs but I would expect clutch slippage

I'm not sure how needing a master rebuild relates to roughing up the steel plates If you squeeze the lever and the clutch fails to disengage you could have air or a faulty master, but a faulty master is unlikely If the steel plates are polished that could only potentially cause slippage Re assemble the clutch and measure how much the pressure plate moves when you squeeze the lever Plates don't really move away from each other, they are like a brake in that they simply run zero clearance

Usually wheel bearing deteriorate quickly, no one can give you a timeline with mechanical problems It's easiest to say simply, they are shot right now And Allballs is cheeeeep junk, there's a reason they are half the price of stock I would hit the auto parts store and some good quality 6004 double sealed bearings

Wow he's young, sure seems to have it figured out though Cool vid

Ummm, hey.....are you saying Mr Neutron gives himself Brazilians?