0007

BOOM!, there it is Now you can tell the wife you tried this tape thing and now you have to decontaminate the transmission to save from catastophic failure Thus actually increasing barn time

Fuel is as big a scam as anything Octane ratings are simply the ability to resist detonation, fuels are designed specifically for fuel injected multi cylinder four cycle engines In canada we have winter and summer fuel as well which changes things based on seasons

Seriously Mr Neutron Why on earth would you allow your significant other to see any mans time saving tips As a man it is your duty to lie and hide this from any and all females Perhaps we need a more secure method of sharing these tips so they don't fall into enemy hands

Air screw is a very fine adjustment and only matters when the throttle is closed Sounds more like your needle is lean, you could try dropping the clip one position Both my Rev and my Evo were lean on the pilot jet, mekes them fussy for set up of the air screw and lean hesitation off idle in cold weather

Only 2 things are a surprise to me 1) That it's open to debate what a smaller or larger sprocket will do, I thought it was grade 1 bike stuff LOL It's all about simple leverage principal, a larger wheel has more circumference covers more ground and takes more power to rotate, smaller wheel is easier (front spkt, rear spkt is opposite) And I lied about 2) I think people change a front simply because it's cheaper than changing rear not because it is better, dropping a tooth on the front is like changing 3 or 4 teeth on the back Hey!, if I grind one tooth off my front sprocket will bike go slower

All you need to do with a 2T is seat the ring without overheating it This happens in the first 20 minutes, do a couple or 3 heat cycles where you get it just up to operating temp with very light loads and cool for 10 min Then ride it like you normally would but don't exceed 75% of full load, like I say, 20 - 30 min is plenty, then a few short hard pulls with a cool down and you are good to go A hard break in is ok but you need to be careful you don't overheat the ring, the wrong thing is full load low rpm use like hill climbing

Maybe a couple of things, retard the timing and add a base gasket If you don't like it you can back up a step, try the timing first I wouldn't be drilling into the cylinder

I think the technique on the bank is called "just hit it", it's effective The log you have a good double blip going on, I find it hard to time stuff, it seems to happen too quickly to put the movements together sometimes When I watch an expert they pop up on stuff slowly and practically stop on top of the log on the rear wheel and I am always amazed

Hmmm, 08 is the first year of Kei Hin carb, I wonder if it's shorter than the Mikuni and the spacer is to make it fit between the intake and the air box I have seen reed spacers before but they move the reed block out from the cylinder, not the manifold away from the reed block

So sometimes they work normally and then randomly they will stick half way down and not return to top? Can you lift it back up? Pul the wheel, pull the caps and spring/springs and slide the forks through their travel range looking for a sticking point

Is that an Echo? What is the BB bracket height on the pedal bike?

Ya that sounds like my left elbow, welcome to the team I'm not sure there is a cure, just gotta not use it

Is it possible you just wired the ground to ground rather than the ignition to ground?

When it gets upside down you get air into the master 2 possible remedies 1) push the piston back into the caliper, all the fluid is forced back into the master and hopefully the air bubble too, these bikes push so little fluid it's a real pain to bleed it all through 2) bleed it at the master banjo bolt In that order Hope it helps

My Rev was kind of fuel fussy, I ran some ring free through it and by decarboning the top end it was noticeably better But..... The detonation was at high rpm with low throttle opening (roads) not high load hill climbing Maybe you should get a second opinion and maybe have someone ride it up a hill and duplicate the problem while you stand helmet off and listen

I always enjoy Fiinny's vids

LOL, I give Clearly 30 some years of working in the industry and 15 years of working for a major manufacturer have led me astray Sometimes I refer to the times I have seen people cure the symptom and feel the have cured the cause simply cuz the symptom has gone away

Agree with Dad, cool running engines don't build carbon, the engine components (piston) need to reach a temp where fuel burns onto the aluminum, that's what carbon is If the engine is cool it's clean as a whistle as it is eternally washed down by the fuel Pistons should have carbon dot in the centre and a clean area as it approaches the edge of the crown Carbon the the edge means lean condition (high combustion temps)

Bicycles are great, find a trials pedal bike and put 10 minutes a day on it, they are really good for balance practice

For what it's worth, from a point of view, I have seen this at least a hundred times Fuel overflows, customer changes float height, sometimes several times with minor improvements The reason the problem is not solved is that float height was not the cause in the first place - bending the tang does NOT increase the leverage and sealing ability of the needle.......EVER - lower fuel level cannot be attained if the needle is leaking, it just changes the time t takes for the problem to occur If a carb is leaking, it is never the float height, it's that the needle is not sealing, perhaps the carb casting is not right, perhaps the needle is not right, perhaps the float is sticking, but certainly adjusting float height is not working and the next thing that could happen is the float height will be so low you could cause a lean seizure

I haven't looked at one close, is it in a spot where a thumb screw won't work? On snowmobiles we used to silver solder a few inches of speedo or tach cable to the screw so it could be located remotely

The fuel cap could only fail to vent negative pressure which would cause a lean condition correct? This sounds like the needle is not sealing, high fuel level and over fueling Pull carb, clean, inspect the needle and seat

Wow that thing is coked up bad, there are products that will decarbon a top end I use Ring Free for marine engines, works very well Have your piston miked and measure your ring end gap, I think a new piston may be in order there

I know on most kei hin carb dirt bikes there is only one style fuel screw that fits all Maybe a local shop has one for under $20, we keep them in stock, not hard to find

Cable or hydraulic is irrelevant as mentioned The hardest thing is getting the tire to bite, get some speed, pull a little nose wheelie, push the back tire into the ground to make it bite and drop the clutch If it bites it starts but best of luck with the timing LOL