0007

Sorry, Not trying to offend, and it's not for the sake of proving anyone wrong I have spent many years explaining how technical stuff works, you should see me with a Yamaha EFI system LOL Cheers

Well there Is quite a difference between water and coolant The smell and taste are quite noticeable If you ran the engine and did not get it up to operating temp before tear down then water in the exhaust would be normal About 70% of what comes out the tailpipe is water vapor Did you stick a ring?, that would lower compression

That's a good description of starting technique I am confused by this bit though "Once you get the kick starter all the way down it will not and can not kick back even if the engine is running." The kick starter gear is always engaged with the gear on the clutch, it's always spins with the clutch basket It doesn't know what part of the stroke the kick starter is at And the kick lever only engages the starter gear with the ratchet mechanism Think of It this way, if you took the kick stopper and kick return spring off you could put an electric motor on the shaft, there is no top and bottom If the motor always spins the right direction it cannot ever kick back the lever as it just spins the ratchet mech If the motor fires and pushes the crank backward it will always kick back the lever no matter where it was as long as there was a load on the lever at the time, they must have an anti rotational coil in the mag to keep the engine from running in reverse, the old TYs would do it sometimes Anyway LOL I still think they all have the tendency to kick a bit, maybe some are worse than others, maybe new tight motors have more tendency than bikes with lots of hours

LOL That's kind of like asking what the best Beer is

2 minor points of note A kick start does not grind the gears once the engine starts, it's a ratchet mechanism You could grind it lots and it won't hurt a thing Low octane fuel can and will detonate but if here is a problem with this bike it's not that Detonation is when the fuel mix explodes upon spark ignition rather than burning in a controlled manner Pre ignition could cause combustion without spark ignition but it could not happen on startup But I agree that is either TMDT or a starting practice issue, that's why I like duplication, have another beta owner start the bike and you start his There are times when my 290 kicks back but it's not unusual to me

There is a thing called a degree wheel Check the ignition timing with a light Adjust Recheck You cannot manage what you cannot measure Maybe what you have is a bike that does not have the timing set correctly from the factory You are going to move this part 1 or 2mm which is less than a pencil width

Well the first bike was a 125 and they have all the same parts, a 125 won't make any where near the heat a 300 will make so hard to compare them If I were you I would compare it directly to another 300 and see if they both turn on at similar times Is your rad clean?

The big question is who gets to buy the CDI when it turns out to not be the problem Once again, a timing light will answer all your questions in a matter of minutes Guess and by golly is very time consuming And find a guy with the same bike and have him start your and you start his You might find what we call TMDT (That Machine Does That)

It's not going to squirt like a garden hose, coolant is kind of tricky If it travels too fast it doesn't spend enough time in the rad and cannot be cooled, then the engine will overheat because it is ingesting hot water I would route the coolant overflow hose so it's easy to see it blow off and just ride the bike If you don't blow coolant you are not overheating and it won't harm the engine if you get it hot enough to blow coolant, just shut it off but look at the fan before you kill it

I don't think that is really a measure of skills anyway, it's just a different genre to display a specialty Danny Mac is another example of a guy who is amazing at his art but not particularly successful at observed trials, It's great to watch your vids Jason and its interesting to hear your stories Got any tips on methods of practicing low speed balance, particularly riding arrow straight Is there any off bike practice that helps?

All plug caps have resistors to minimize electrical interference But it's not 500K is either 5k or 10K 500K would be a plug cap that is nearly an open circuit

Oh, to test coolant flow: Drain the coolant out Replace with water Take the output side hose (the on to the top side of the rad) and point it at your buddy Run the bike and it should pump all the water out rather quickly

My method of diagnosing stuff like this is to do it all with the bike When the thermal switch is on the bench all you can tell is the switch works on the bench So, get hold of an infra red temp gun, they are easy to find now a days Run the motor and test the temp of the rad and or head exactly where the switch is Leave your ohm meter connected to the switch while you do it If the switch does not get to the temp it is intended to switch at then you learn something If it switches but the fan does not come on then you learn something The bike is the best place to test this stuff Good luck

I'm not so sure I would leap right to adjusting the ignition timing, perhaps it should be checked to see if the timing is incorrect first?, it's like asking about a drive train noise on the net and adjusting your chain without looking to see if its loose or not Not saying the fix is wrong way to go but in my world the problem needs to duplicated and the symptom needs to be verified by a mechanical means Then the fix is applied Diagnosis via Internet and fix applied = something I see at least twice a week at the shop I work at It's worse than starting from scratch It's not your CDI, don't waste your money, it's an act of desperation with no diagnosis A CDI is probably worth at least 3 hours of labor at a dealership that knows how to diagnose this stuff

Are you opening the throttle on startup or just leaving it closed?

Same on my Evo, new bikes seem tight but I doubt it can come apart

..?.. The power from the light will feed into the kill switch if the ground fails? You mean I hit the kill switch and the headlight comes on? Doesn't work like that, I know ground loops occur but if the ground failed then neither the light nor the kill would work, it simply becomes and Open Circuit But there is so much surface area in contact with the bolt, the threads and the loop connectors that loss of ground is very unlikely I know these kill switches have problems, mine was disco'd when I got my Rev, it was stuck in the kill position I took it part, cleaned, lubed and stretched the spring and its still working today

Not. Necessarily, if it moves a couple mm in each direction that's normal Remember that's a motion that never happens when the engine is running so it has no meaning It also has no spec to measure So....not to say you don't have motor problems but that is not how you check it

Look for an ATV tire pressure gauge or fork air pressure gauge that caps out at 10lbs or so Regular tire gauges are not accurate at low pressures

I have run my rear tire as low as 3.5 for slippery conditions, usually 4 lbs And my front bashes the rim at 5 lbs so I run 6lbs but I'm 200lbs Pressure changes with temperature so you check it often Hey what is that Reflex like to ride? That's a nice little bike there

Is there a light switch? If I remember correctly there were twinned side by side They were sticky and had a weak return spring so they stick in the killed position but the wires are probably sitting right there behind the headlight, it was probably just unplugged and discarded, I doubt they chopped the harness off and stuffed it back somewhere Sorry I can't help with the colors of the wires but there won't be a bunch of stuff there, it's a 2 wire plug and you short the wires together and it shuts off

I don't think Mr Bou is ever boring to watch, shame on you.... The helmets are just how the Japanese do stuff, it's a different culture with different ways of doing things I suspect the organizers don't even need to convince the observers to wear them, they report for duty and they wear the uniform and they don't ask why Japanese people are absolutely fantastic to work with

Well the rear brake is still very important but in a section in second gear flat ground is what we refer to Feather the front brake to control speed, get off the rear brake If you use the rear brake then, it locks your leg in the wrong place, and moving your foot to and from the brake you affect the chassis by changing your weight bias from one peg to another

Paint on a plastic gas tank is not going to work as off gassing from the fuel will always ruin it from the inside out Why don't you look into a decal shop doing a wrap?

Plastic 5mm screws 90150-05024 The darts are 8mm 90269-08006 Both of these are snowmobile part numbers, I don't know if non snowmobile countries will have them but give it a try If the dart number is not available have the a Yamaha dealer check a Grizzly or Kodiak part, they use these in several spots to hold the plastic down