0007

It will be turned on by the thermal switch which is probably in the rad, but may be on the head My guess is that you run 12v to the fan and the other wire goes to the switch that would ground the circuit when it closes

Isn't it awesome learning a new style, I love it (I'm only a couple years into trials) To a certain extent you just need to spend some time getting used to how the bike feels and getting over the awkwardness But practice leaning the bike into turns and keeping your body weight over the bike, low speed first gear figure 8s are something you have to do, put a few rocks down so you have turning points Practice riding as straight as possible while maintaining your balance at all times, bad habits from other bikes will have you using the steering to maintain balance but you have to break that Knees out, feet wide is important another bad habit to break of knee hugging the bike

In NGK language The first letter is the diameter of the threaded area (B,C or D) Second if a P is projected tip If not projected then its R and means resistor Number is heat range The E is length of the threaded area And S means standard, I suspect if it were Platinum it would end with P Platinum won't make your bike go faster (or slower) or last longer or have stronger spark It's for ignition systems designed to require it, save your money

Slime seems to do what it's supposed to do but it adds a pound of the snottiest schmeg in the world to your bike and it will gross you out come next tire change I would take a crack at curing the leak first, soap it up and find the leak, pop the bead and reseal All else fails, resort to slime

Can you explain exactly when the clunk happens?, top out, bottom out? One thing that a lot of forks do is move around especially at full extension when the bushings are their closest together You can feel it when the spring is out and look for fore and aft play in the leg

If you weld it strip the case of all parts and then put the empty cases back together, this would help eliminate warpage But if it were mine I would use epoxy of some sort, don't try to do it all in one gob, do some let it dry then lay another strip Or cut an adequately sized piece of aluminum to fit as well as possible then glue it in place

You know (I can't wheel hop by the way) the bicycle guys do it this way Put the front end up high on something where you can more easily get to the balance point Or 2 guys lift the front end while you are on the bike and get you balanced, once you get settled they run away Be worth trying as it separates the balance step from the getting there step Kinda like learning to walk before learning to run Or in this case, learn to walk befor learning to walk a tightrope LOL

80 liters of gas to 1 liter of oil 8 l to 100cc 4 l to 50cc That's how I do my moron math LOL

I would suggest a spray can of combustion chamber cleaner, soak er down leave overnight and most of it will pour out the end

Bar end caps are great things to have, I have em and would put them on any bike Also "Mechanical Sympathy" is a crucial tool for any rider to have, your daughter is learning this and it's a good thing She see's the cause, then the effect, then the resolution when you do the bar ends, great schooling, enjoy

That initial Wow factor could make the bike a handful in a difficult spot, the Rev is kind of soft on power delivery but it makes it easy to ride and stick to the ground in slippery situations Neither is particularly better, just different

Conservative would be running it at 20:1 I run my bike at 80:1 with a good quality Motorsport oil Avoid cheep oils and marine oils

The technical term for the fluid coming from the silencer is "Spooge" LOL All it indicates is that you are running rich or possibly the oil mix is way to conservative Run it at 80:1 with a good brand of oil, might need to repack your silencer as it will be plugged with the gorp As for the fan, ya I think you will need it

I agree with the chest mount, helmet mount doesn't work at all I think you need to see the bike controls to keep a sense of perspective

Ya I had the shock out and it's got nothing, just screws in and out I resprung and now it kicks off of logs, I have set it 4 turns from full soft but I don't remember ever seeing a shock adjuster with no clickies

I'm not real fond of resistance tests on things like pick up coils, it lies to you too often Japanese bikes made the transition to peak voltage where you measure the power output of the coil, it never lies Only glitch Is you need an adapter as AC is hard to do this with

Hey I should have put more emphasis in the word Momentarily LOL, stopping for a split second without making the transition to wheel turned balancing is more usefull to me, I use it often It is the same feeling as riding slowly and balancing the bike without steering, all of us do that all the time when riding in the rocks, I call it wheel placement I would love to be able to balance with wheel straight like the trials gods but I can't do it for more than a second, I guess it helps me to avoid that irresistible feeling of wanting to dab when I stop, it's as much habit as it is skill, I have a lot of habits but very little skill

It's probably easy to over analyze this, if you practice smooth throttle application and focus on body position at some point in the near future you will realize that you have completely forgotten about your throttle hand, it will (and must) become automatic, same as your clutch finger There's waaaaay to much to think about while riding a section, you can't be concentrating on the throttle Ride for fun and practice for no more than 20 minutes at a time and it will come together But don't forget how fun these bikes are

There is no taper that holds it together, if you push the rod down with the broom stick (the wood kind of bites into the rod) you can tighten the bolt, try not to slowly rotate the bolt and rod as you don't want wood pulp or sawdust in the oil You can get it finger tight and give the wrench handle a smack like an impact wrench would do, after it bites you will be able to torque it up

Well, it's abnormal combustion, glowing carbon buildup, a burr on the head gasket etc It takes a couple of things to start it and it isn't good for the motor, but again a leak test of your engine should be done to rule out crank seal, crankcase and intake leaks It puts several psi air pressure in the engine and crankcase and you look for air leaks with soapy water at trans vent, intake manifold, base gasket etc An air leak is essentially an extra air intake, it should never happen in a sealed engine But I did have a high comp 2 stroke years ago that would runaway as the float bowl went low (running out of fuel), first place to look is fuel delivery problems

Does your damping adjuster have detents? Mine turns and migrates into the shock body but no clicks They all like that?

Pre ignition can cause a runaway as it does not require a spark to ignite the mix, may explain why the kill switch didn't work Phone around and look for a shop who can pressure test your engine, eliminate air leak as a possibility

Something that most people don't really do is practice specific things Why don't you try putting a section together where you practice throttle control only, not balance or obstacles Just focus on your right hand, it does not take long for habits to develop, but you do have to develop them

LOL, ride an R1 After that try and convince me we still need carbed sport bikes But having said that, sometimes character is hard to replace

Just needs a quick blip with a 3/8 air impact If you don't have that then shove a broomstick down the fork to hold the rod as you tighten the bolt Like one of the guys mentioned, it's not a drain bolt, it's how you take the fork apart