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I suggest you order a new needle and seat When you have it in your hand it will become clear to you how it is replaced Also you may want to have a professional look at your carb anyway, maybe it would be best if a trials dealer were to install this and set the float height, I would assume at this point it has been messed with more than once and Needs attention

I think you slacken the adjusters til the spring is slack then the top Clevis just slips off

You don't need a carb you either need a needle and seat or a float Cheaper than a carb

I can't remember if it has a nut on the back or it was captive but if its a nut then it would be great if the bolt and nut shear off, then you could put it in the press Think of it like this, it's already damaged, the worst that can happen is you break something that is already broken Or if it still works fine then just leave it alone til later

There is a place for iridium plugs but..... It won't make you bike go faster or last longer or start easier or look better or ........ They are for ignition systems that are designed to use them, some systems react poorly to iridium plugs so it could actually make your bike worse, there is no magic spark plug to improve performance

10/40 or 10/30 makes no real diff I think brand is more important as the properties of oil are very different Problem:Every rider has a different preference and availability is all over the map I have used 80:1 all along with good results

It's pretty straight forward, you spin off the adjusters and the spring comes off But measure your installed spring length first so you can set preload back in the same place

Does it do it in neutral? Every engine has a spot where it tends to vibrate, usually it's when the engine starts to make its most power If it does it in neutral, have someone make it do it and you can get all over the bike and look and listen for parts vibrating or rattling Possible it happens at the transition circuit somewhere between the pilot and the needle Does it do it worse or better with or without load etc?

Engine noises can be hard to figure out, sometimes rattles are thrust, the cylinder might not be aligned with the crank and the piston can knock from side to side or the crank can move around But heck like was mentioned, old 2 strokes just clatter, what makes you think you can stop it LOL

Is it your emulsion tube?, bunch of tiny holes in it and a hood on top where it's exposed in the Venturi If so it goes in from the top and the main jet screws into it holding it in place

Steve, looks like a good time was had by all, great to have a pro photog like that around, the pics are fantastic

?.....seriously?, you spray WD 40 on your leather boots?

You need the rim band in there or the spoke nipples will wear through the tube in short order I would have invested the time in the rear wheel so I could run it with no tube But that's just me

I was looking for back brake magic on the vid but I can't see any fancy footwork

Adjusting float height will never solve it because its not the cause If you dribble is because the needle is not sealing Maybe you need a new needle but a gob of toothpaste and a Q tip will clean, lap and polish the seat (Outlaw Dave trick) That is #1 likely cause if your problems, give it a try before anything else

Did this happen suddenly? Like right after hitting a rock on the shifter? If the shifter sticks when the shifter shaft is bent, and usually the shift shaft comes out the clutch side If a shift drum or fork were damaged it would effect shifting but it wouldn't make the shifter stick So....shift shaft is my diagnosis

I'm thinking that some of what is between the fibers is glue but some or lots of it is buildup from wrong trans oil Maybe some lubes have a low detergent level? Seems strange that I have never seen this crud on fibre plates on Japanese bikes Maybe the clutch runs pretty dry and because it doesn't spin very fast it doesn't clean itself?

Hi Peter, curious what oil have you been using in your bike?

Pindie that was a dumb comment..........everyone knows you just take the slide out You could also just kick it til the internal friction has warmed the motor and then it would start with no choke

It's not normal for a transmission to pop out of gear, the dogs are back cut (think ramp) so the more power that is fed to it the more it holds into gear, it actually pulls it into gear The gears are case hardened so the dog won't really wear So I would assume in both cases that it didn't really pop out, it was probably never really in all the way Usually it will work but pop out when you chop the throttle Again, bent shift fork or maybe even worn bushing in the fork, do they have a brass bushing?

I think the new shift drum is to make the bike easier to shift maybe you whacked your shifter and bent a shift fork at some point Not much you can do from the outside other than make sure your shifter isn't hitting your clutch cover, maybe it's not going all the way into gear

Magnets won't change polarity with impact but if you smack a magnet a weird thing can happen, you can knock the magnetism out of it You never hit a flywheel directly with a hammer or drop it on the floor, unfortunately you are looking at the only thing on the bike you cannot test I have never heard of the test you mention, but it sounds subjective at best, if you don't have a peak voltage number to look for on your meter then it doesn't mean anything If you have a meter you need to test to see if the points are opening and closing Also see what resistance the plug cap has, should be 10,000 ohms I bet you have a points or condenser problem, what was the problem before you swapped the points?

Hmmm, I seem to never miss the ground when I throw myself at it... I like balancing just cuz it's cool but I found that there is a big difference between balancing static, and having the ability to come to a dead stop and balance anywhere So what I mess around with is riding along slow and stopping momentarily, I keep it together with the bars pointed in the direction of travel for a second or so and then go again, I don't plan to stay there I find this practice usefull in a section for when you have that unexpected Whoah! Moment and you need to collect yourself, kinda gets you away from feeling like you need to put your foot down I don't find I often need to stop for an extended period cuz I can't hop anyway

I would look for a pop off tester Watercraft dealers would have used these in the carb days You would hold the carb upside down and test to see if the needle leaks and as you pressure it up it would pop and then reseal Look for a steady weep to tell if the needle is leaking You could also check fuel height (not float level) it should normally be near the gasket surface You would make a tool to replace the drain plug and put a clear hose out so you can hold it alongside the carb body with the bike running

Well not a lot to go on there but I would guess the low speed is rich Float needle not sealing well could give high fuel level Rich setting of the air screw Low compression would make the bike act rich as well First things first, replace the spark plug