lbhbul

Best answer I have ever seen!!! Larry

For what its worth; for me 180 cc dexron ATF. We have helped my friend who has the longer Pursang springs with 30 weight in one leg & atf in the other @ 180 cc, each, this amount has always worked for me. This is only my thoughts. Be sure to have the caps breathing well & turned so they don't accidently get any oil on your person. Larry

Hello again, After reading Tonys post with great interest and all above, went to the shop and measured footrest distance on GG & 199 Bul, surprise both very close to 37 1/2, handlebars; std Hebo plus 1 inch risers,Bul, Answer Bernie rise & crossbar (welded), maybe 6 in rise? Sections of my time were as much as possible natural terrain, no clutching necessary except to start and stop to get your score. Sadly very seldom the case these days. PS the stout lads cut bars to 30 inch width. Have a nice Thanksgiving Larry

Hello all, very good thread brings back memories . Didn't mod them back then much, learned to use front & rear brakes to turn smartly, NEVER loss of forward motion, much emphasis on body position (crawl all over), most important throttle control, start the Buls in gear ect. All input great Larry

Good grief , good old Bings! PM me as I can maybe help with the problem. Larry

Vic, the drive wheel is just stuck, careful not to lose key. As to the clutch pins if you don't have a nice puller like Guy has, lay her down and make a small oil spot on the floor (trans breather), good friend with long nose pliers and you with same, not fun!!! Good luck Larry PS did we put a condenser under the tank as we discussed?

Andy, Give it a go, nothing ventured nothing gained. Good Luck Larry

Ally, That's really thinking out of the norm. Hooray !!! Larry

Andy, I build and use myself, 4 original springs, nuts backed off 3 1/2, 300cc ATF (dexron). In my experience 1st plate in must be earless, you may experience clutch slippage if you don't kick smartly, none when underway, well lubed cable important. Graham thanks for helping,hope this is what you referred to. Larry

Beautiful!!! Great job. Larry

Vic, Good to hear from you again, this description is a lean condition,loose slide maybe; with air breather hose loose & bike running hold pressure on the slide & see if things calm down. Larry

Dave Thanks for the reply, hope you have good luck. To bad the GG is to big on the engine side, would have ruled out the carb. Larry

Allyboy Bike looks great!! As to the spark issue NGK Iridium works best for me. I don't know what length you need. Also an automotive condenser mounted under the tank is cheap insurance. Larry

Andy, Hooray for you!!! You may not need the Mikuni now. Try the Amal before you trash it. Good Luck. Thanks Graham Larry

My experience Mikuni,TK,Bing, as above. If you can hold them in your hand one can see the difference. If you think its rich, back out the air screw and see if that helps. Call Mike @ Tryalshop in New York he can help. Larry

Is it a Mikuni? If so smaller number = smaller bore on pilot jets. Larry

Andy I would think with this primary,the top hat would be 32/33 mm to be out past the shoulder, makes one wonder about the clutch spacer? Alignment of chain will tell,good about nut clutch,thanks, Graham. Larry

Andy, Before reassembly. do check thee thickness of the steel clutch pack, try to duplicate thickness with Barnetts. Usually only 4 Barnett plates can be used, be sure to start in basket with earless plate, if you have nuts securing the springs it is a lot simpler than a pin clutch test for release prior to buttoning up . Larry

Dave Hope you will look @ PMs.. Larry

Dave Please check your PMs Larry

Bullylover, Glad you are helping Andy, it would seem there have been several changes from new. I understand the change to ignition, as I don't believe much is available for the original. Cant grasp the primary dilemma. Larry

Mike Sounds good to me, only mentioned Velcro as a maybe. Good Luck Larry

Andy That washer seems to be the answer?? o ring goes against main, the alignment is the main concern I have,perhaps when you get sealed up carb will not be the issue. Good luck,keep us informed Larry

Andy Was editing my post as you were on line. If your drive wheel has no c/bore, you may have a short top hat & either come up with a longer sleeve or something, not that familiar with 213, but the alignment of the chain is critical. Is this a motoplat with points? Larry

Andy, I guess there must something I cant understand (not new for me). The sleeve has a counter bore in one end to locate the o ring against the crank main bearing to complete the sealing process. It must be in place. The drive wheel uses the sleeve to locate for alignment to the clutch and is torqued tight. The sleeve cannot float! The drive wheel should have a counter bore to accommodate the 4 mm step. After you get the thing back together it needs to run long enough to burn the excess oil from the muffler per Patricks above post. Larry