tankygsy

From the very limited experiance I have they should if anything be wound all the way out. With a few clicks in on the rebound. From there it depends on your riding style and terrain. Of course I stand to be corrected!

Just a suggestion, you could sand the scratches out and polish it up. If you find an end can let me know cause I wouldn't mind upgrading mine too

Serves him right.. Clearly the guy had no regard for the safety of himself or others, all for the sake of getting hits on YouTube. No sympathy from me I'm afraid.

Ps pardon my bad spelling, bloney iPhone keyboards and clumsy finger tips!

Anybody here rewound an exciter coil on a 280cc txt pro and be able to tell me what gauge/thickness the copper magnet wire is? (arnt the stature on all pro models the same?) Im asking as im Not able to measure mine untill at least Thursday but want to get some wire ordered first thing Monday morning. Cheers

Did you try with plug gap at .3mm?

Here's the polish... Good stuff too they come up like new.. http://www.trialsuk.co.uk/products/waterproof-boot-polish.

I got me a pair of these: http://www.trialsuk.co.uk/products/gaerne-balance-classic-trials-boot I agree with what has been said about gaerne boots, I love the balance boot, it looks cool, they are water proof, does the job really well, very comfy and if the situation ever arise where you have to go for a meal after a trial but you forget to put your nice shoes in your bag you can wipe these clean and still go because under a pair of trousers or jeans they still look respectable enough that no one is gonna notice. At the trials area you'll look like you know what you are doing with a pair of these bad boys... Get the gaerne polish as well. Not cheap at

Good thinking jordi! no trialing stores where I am but loads of cycling shops So will definately take a look..

Set plug gap to .3mm and try again.

Lol chewy! Seriously, is there anything in particular I need to consider?

Hello fellas and wanna be fellas... I need a suitable jacket for when I go trialling, I also like to be able to carry little bits and pieces like plugs and mobile phone etc. Question 1. Should I get a jacket that has an elasticated waiste or Question 2. Should I get one without.. Question 3 . Would either of the above restrict movement? For a budget of say

Do you still have the dawn off end and what is the diameter of the shaft? I would suggest drilling, tapping and threading the shaft so you can bolt it together with a 12.9 minimum grade socket cap screw (Allen key bolt). Then using hardened dowel pins to locate and lock both parts together. The diameter of the shaft will determine what diameter bolt and dowel pins to get, for instance if the shaft is 15mm diameter you could use an m6 bolt and 2 x 2mm dowel pins. Hardened dowel pins can be had here: http://www.boneham.co.uk/ShowProducts.aspx?CategoryID=5

Check plug gap.. Reduce it by a few thou. And try again.

My missus broke her thumb ramping my trials bike over a bump at low speed, not really trialing as such but there we go. Someone apparently broke there ankle too, after stepping in a rabbit hole! I've broken my pride several times... Sorry about the wrist injury, hope it heals fast.

Eg: http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Motorsport/Suspension_Steering/Competition_Springs/Faulkners_Race_Springs/1738/3723

What size is the inside diameter, length and lb rating is the spring you are after? I ask as you can get springs of all different flavours from motorsport suppliers. Give us the spec and I'll send you a link.

Are you sure you are bleeding enough air out of it, I force about 60 - 70ml through the line to ensure the air is evacuated.

If the caliper piston seal was leaking you would clearly see fluid coming out if it.

In order: Release the adjuster on the brake lever so the master cylinder piston is fully contracted. Back bleed with a syringe. When you think you've forced enough through it and it's spraying out the reservoir slow the pressure on the syringe down a bit so the reservoir fills up. Tighten bleed nipple. Replace reservoir cap, make sure the reservoir is completely filled so that it oozes out when you put the membrane back in. Now with the system sealed up put a spanner on the bleed nipple and while holding the brake lever in open the nipple. Close the nipple and let the brake out again and repeat once more. This will push the pistons out to the disk. You should have a brake now. If not don't worry, fill the reservoir up again and repeat the bleed process just with a wrench and the pumping process. If you don't have a brake now something isn't quite right somewhere and needs investigating. I find after I've bled the brakes it takes a bit of use for them to fully firm up, once they do I then adjust my brake lever to where I want it. You have to release the adjuster to bleed them, if not the piston in the master cylinder will not draw fluid in the suction side of the reservoir.

Yup, Airgap was too small by about 10mm. Surprising the difference 10mm can make!

Or replace the rad cap. It's designed to open at 'x' pressure.

May I just point out that a fan blade can spin too fast and actually stall the airflow through a fan. I'm sure the chosen motor is fine but just incase you get any overheating issues a stalled fan may be the cause. Regards.

Hello just a quickie.. Replaced my fork seals and topped up with motul 5 weight oil. Oil quantity was 300ml/cc's. Think i may have over filled them using a not very accurate measuring container as they only seem to compress about 2-3", other bikes ive been on are much softer and mine just feel a bit too firm. Im new to bikes and had to replace the fork seals as soon as i got it so have no base for comparison other then riding freinds bikes. When i stripped the forks the valving was cleaned up and no problems found with the valving or springs, the springs are not coil bound so im thinkiing BAD MEASURING CONTAINER / OVER FILL + SMALL AIRGAP = FIRM SUSPENSION. I wouldave thought that over filling them by 10-20mm would be noticable. Bike is 2007 gasgas pro

yes yes very good Turned out the pickup was the culprit, not picking up very well at all. It appears to be due to water ingress and through getting bash during normal use. Running fine now anyway cheers for all suggestions and help. Never got any compression figures in the end, so0 just for ha ha's i replaced mine for future reference. In case anyone else needs to know; with new rings my gauge sees 163 psi, the motor is stock with a 0.8mm cylinder gasket and clean combustion chamber. A freind of mine has 155psi (on a reasonably fresh engine), and another mate sees 142psi. Readings taken on the same gauge. By the way bloody great site this, well done admin and very fiendly folks.