tankygsy

A bit of boring elf n safety stuff on Na0H.. Rule of thumb for mixing any basic or acid chemical is to make sure you add the chemical to the water. Never add water to any basic or acid as some will give off toxic fumes and some even create heat to the point of combustion. Sodium hydroxide Na0H aka caustic soda or commonly called lye is fairly safe, if anything it can irritate the skin and sting your eyes if you get some in them. If you do rinse thoroughly with water mixed with orange cordial (a mild acid that will neutralise the effects of a strong base (alkaline). Safety bit over, now for some caustic soda fun! Get a 1 ltr bottle of water and put a table spoon or two of sodium hydroxide inside it. Quickly screw the lid on and chuck it - makes a good bang as the co2 builds up pressure inside the bottle! Just don't throw it towards other people...

Amen brother...

What's such a pain in the bottom sucking up 63ml of oil into a syringe, squirting it into a 5ltr can and shaking it? The mind boggles...

And just for the record it was not myself in that footage!

Get a syringe marked to 100ml. Use a soldering iron to remark the graduations as they will dissolve off in a short while. Attach a piece of hose to the end of the syringe so you can dip it into a bottle of oil and suck up measured quantities of your chosen premix oil. Some people measure out petrol in jugs and decant them into a can to get spot on accuracy as fuel station meters arnt always correct but I find this quite a laborious and time consuming process, I prefer to just fill up either a 5 or 10 liter can, add oil to it then get the missus who ive appointed chief petrol shaker / mixer to do her thing while I stand back and whatch her bouncy bits jiggle while she does her thing for a few minutes. Any excess left over goes into my car or saved for another day. Keep the syringe handy for other tasks like filling the gear box oil, bleeding brakes etc.

Looking at the parts book for a jtx you can get fan blade, motor and cowling all separately so you should be able to strip down and fit an aftermarket motor.

I tried that a747 recently and after several tanks full I don't think I'll be using it again. after removing the combustion chamber top it had quite a bit of un burnt gunk inside. Throughout the time of using it the plug was always black and gunged up. I noticed that while the engine is running it doesn't smoke much infact hardly at all which of course means its not burning the oil. Going back to she'll advance kart oil, much cleaner!

Clutch swelled up from using ATF. Will do this if left for a few days to a week or so without being run. a push along the ground while in gear and squeezing the clutch lever will normally free it up enough to safely start the engine without it running away from you. Dp clutch packs don't like ATF, light gear oil is reccomended by Gas Gas. However Ive noticed that if you go too light (for example putoline light gear oil) it slipps between 4th and 5th and 6th gear changes whilst on road sections. I'll give that gp10 a try next as it is slightly thicker then LGO.

Another prime example of how to fall off:

You could use a scotch brite but you'd need to use a buffing machine and autosol or some other cutting compound to get it shiny again.

Do yourself a favour and get the irridium type, part code is: Ngk BPR5EIX

I run 45mm risers on my Gas Gas and I'm 5'8". Nice and comfortable stance. Annoyingly no one seems to do anywhere near a 2" riser so I had to fabricate them from some ally stock. Don't forget talker risers need longer bolts and they must be at least 12.9 grade high tensile bolts. 8.8's will snap eventually.

A few of you has said its better, but have not said why. What makes it better, does it have slower or faster damping? Is it lighter? Do they last longer between overhauls? Please elaborate..

Hi warren My most humblest apologies chap! My post referred to the 2005 - 2007 kukosan digital version 2 type, which my own bike has a' la' : http://www.trialspartsusa.com/diagrams/KokusanDigital2005Pro.jpg Your ignition system appears to be the 2005 - 2006 Ducati version 2 digital type: http://www.trialspartsusa.com/diagrams/DUCATIdigital2005.JPG Looking at the pic of the regulator again i can see what looks like the word Ducati - a bit of a give away but not so easy to spot on an iPhone 3! As you can see in the drawings these are two very different systems and your cdi is clearly fed via the regulator and generator for an ac and dc supply whereas mine simply has its own single ac feed. Sorry to confuse things for you. My post is only of use to those with a kukosan ignition. I know how fustrating it can be to get to a point of diagnosis where you think youve cracked it only to be guided on an alternative fruitless path by a numbnut engineer like me! Mental note to self: get a pc for home cause the iPhone screen has its limitations I'm glad it's fixed and working again now fella and hope you have a good ride at the weekend.

Straight swap

Gas Gas txt pro 2007 280cc. How can I tell if my fork springs are standard? Reason I ask is my forks seem a bit on the stiff side, I wonder if the previpus owner was a man size pant wearing type???

ATF makes dp clutch pack swell. Light gear oil only 75-80sae.

The rectifier in your picture converts 1 of two ac supplies to dc for powering the fan and lights. It plays no part in the ignition system. The ignition system consists of: Ignitor coil Coil pick up Cdi unit High voltage coil Ht lead Spark plug Kill switch In laymans.. As the flywheel rotates, the ignitor coil (2nd ac circuit) creates an ac supply for the cdi unit. The coil pickup senses the firing point from the flywheel (located where the notch is on the flywheel) which tells the cdi when to release this stored energy to one side of the high voltage coil (primary circuit) which increases the volts further and sends it out the other side (secondary circuit) down the ht lead to the spark plug - all in an instant. End of lesson... Assuming the wiring and spark plug is good It's most likely the ignitor coil on the stator (the large black one). Cdi units and high voltage coils rarely fail, so sure of this is gas gas that they claim to never have had one confirmed as being faulty. First check is to disconnect the kill switch, see if it starts, if so its just a faulty switch. Another quick but not highly accurate check is to set your plug gap to .3 mm. If your bike starts and runs then it's a sure sign your ignition coil although not completely dead is very weak and on its way out fast. Check the Ignitor coil insulation by testing resistance accross the red/white and red/black wires (on the main plug) it should be around 20 ohms +-15% weather it's hot or cold. On the same wires crank it over with your meter set to ac volts, you should see about 35-40volts ac if I remember correctly - perhaps someone can check as I'm not 100% sure, I would check for you but I'm away from home till Friday. This should only take you 20 mins or so, let us know what results you get. By the way new stators are not cheap,

Viagra.

If the coil was removed then the cdi unit (black box) would have been removed too. Is this fitted correctly? The front (non plug end) of the cdi unit slides under the frame and caged nut at the front end of the bike, the bolt for the fuel tank screws into this caged nut. With the multiplug disconnected slide the cdi into position. After sliding the cdi unit into position connect the multi plug (which should be facing rearward). Trying to slide the cdi unit under the frame with the plug still attached can be tight so its easier to plug it in last. Sorry no picture so I hope this helps.

First check is to make sure fan is coming on, start it up and check the fan is working. Now disconnect the fan from its plug and wire it up to a battery to see if it comes on every time you connect a circuit. Try it several times, if the motor doesnt spin once or twice the motor is faulty. My fan motor packed up and it ran occassionally when it wanted to, and it was over heating for no apparent reason. The fan motor was actually knackered and I only realised this when I rigged it up to a battery and checked it. if your motor is knackered get a graupner speed 500 e motor from cornwall models fir about a tenner and replace it (cheaper then buying from gas gas). If the fan is good and you are sure the wiring is good you can check the thermostat by removing it from the rad and dropping it into a kettle of hot water, probe it with a meter to see if the contacts close.

Has your oil gone creamy in the clutch cover window?

I wouldn't spend

You have a voice, errr, say something. You won't get anything accomplished on a chat forum bloke... Unless of course they are all bigger then you, hold your tounge and try to beat them at their own game!

You bet, I smear spent oil from my exhaust on my neck, the scent turns my girlfreind on. Gotta be careful though, her dads a petrol head too...