Jump to content

shercoben12

Members
  • Posts

    641
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by shercoben12
 
 
  1. check water pump pin. sounds about right length. if not your best bet is to open it up and check all needle roller bearings and rebuild while your there. a few of mine exploded on my gasser and was rather costly!
  2. how did you get a 15 model? my friend tried to get one for his son and gguk said they wont import them due to engine issues? dont touch the clutch plates or mod them.. yes the bottom end is identical to the bigger bikes excluding crank . line away has your son got the 15 one? think the older ones had different clutch and engine all together. my brand new 125 did the same with the clutch drag. mine got better after its ( harsh ) first ride . and my old new jotagas did it as well. they get alot better when you wear them in. mine where dreadful at first. even creeping forward with clutch in. as for getting into neutral all gassers are alittle hard. easier when moving. change the oil to global racing oil ( official product of gasgas and ossa) http://www.globalracingoil.co.uk/gear_extrem_75w or putoline light gear oil ( phone gguk) the amount you put in can vary. everyone seems to fill theres up with their own amount. usually between 375 ml and 550 mls. the more oil the more drag I tend to get. so try just about half way up the sight glass ( 425mls ) ish. as lineaway said above. make sure the the clutch master cylinder is set up correctly with a few mm of play so the piston can return fully out. this is essential. theres also little pin in the lever which you can screw in which will give you more leverage and clutch movement. i have found this to help me sometimes. but you will have to screw out the free play adjuster to re set the play. hope that makes sense haha. any more questions just ask . btw - stick with the gasser. as long as looked after it will be fine! good luck and happy new year. ben -15
  3. ahaha being a gasgas the gearbox would probably explode with the amount of speed going through it. wheel bearings would get rekt.. similarly my friends scorpa 125 trail bikes rear wheel hopped out the side of the trailer and was in gear. it was dragged 2.5 miles home in gear. flat spot on tyre. gear box bearings shattered.... LOL
  4. nah i like having a trick bike which runs awesome . im on youth inters/expert down here now . probably wont benifit much but still want it , conversion not too hard!
  5. if its cold i reckon you would tell the difference, in my experience the x11 goes rock solid when cold. the xlite does wear alittle quicker and if you do alot of rocks it sometimes gets cuts and punctures in the sidewall. if its not gonna effect you how much you spend go for xlite. lot better grip in my opinion!!
  6. ok, coming to that so sure, who are you though haha? yeah fair enough its a pricey little thing so might aswell do it properly... looking for cleaner low end and more mid/top power. was mint at gest club trial just lacked slightly on the big hills. read on splatshop you can pop it straight into standard block but its a struggle and restricts flow because its not at correct angle, obviously being a 125 this gonna effect it significantly. am i right? any one used the jitsie adapter? raga block is too expensive for me
  7. hi cope, haha i thought they would all be the same pretty much except different jets and slide? its on an auction site for £40 something but going up alittle... can you message me if its gonna be reasonable ish price
  8. would love to see the legend on it!! hed probably win as well! and yeh i bet he will be on it sometime. i think the sport could do with abit more coverage. cant see any downsides to it?
  9. hi, got the opportunity to get a keihin pwk28 carb for my 125. it has come of a lambretta would some one be able to tell me what the best jets are for the 125, im not high up and im in south of england. what slide and needle will i need also. thanks edit: and anything else ill need to make it work ...
  10. ^ they do if you ask - always someone wants one . looks nice
  11. its just a loud bang bang crackly noise from the ossa, the montesa has standard exhuast completly original low use bike. i know old bikes are not quiet as bikes go but its abnormaly loud.
  12. pretty sure its the original amal carb
  13. hi, our ossa 1975 250 mar has got a silver sammy miller exhuast on. it makes a right racket. very poppy and loud compared to our 348 mont. can you get an original one? would this be better? or any after market one?
  14. hi, got a very nice clean ossa mar 1975 250. hasnt been used much. while we have owned it we have only used it on our drive and just had it stored . well anyway it runs perfect on flat but as soon as you twist the throttle and the front lifts up or you attempt to go uphill or up a bank. it bogs badly and will cut out unless you give it even more then it will roar up at high revs. and if you hold constant throttle for a few seconds say 1/4 throttle cruising then give it more then it bogs, again you have to give it even more to get out of it. seems to me it seems to be an issue with the floats in the carb. like there not adjusting when angled or like theres not enough fuel. tank has been cleaned and so has carb. any ideas?? also thinking about a OKO 26mm carb ( keihin copy ) i think this would really enhance it and make it sweet. would this fit straight in ? has any one used one and if so what jets would it need?
  15. ahh again dont you think i would of tried calling him, he was out at the time, he got back at 12.30pm ish - who would phone there mate and get them to go out n measure it that late. otherwise i wouldnt have bothered to ask such a small question.
  16. its fine when the handle bars are turned its just when pushing forward, tightened it this morning and its all good. haha funny one tshock 250 - dont you think i would of done that and not had to ask a question on here !! ... i didnt have the bike on me. it was at a friends so i couldnt of measured it could i .
  17. My mate ( rides elite and is a good mechanic) has told me ( he knows pretty much every little thing about gassers) if the headstock bolt is slightly loose even the slightest bit The forks will be notchy... It's not loose enough to turn with fingers just ever so slightly loose. The bearings are fine and recent. Any one know the size of the nut? Need to know !
  18. hi, need to know what size socket i need for the big nut ontop of the top fork clap for the headstock spindle thing... its loose and is making a horrible crunching noise. im going to buy a socket tomorrow so need an answer soon! cheers
  19. i would personally try and go for a 2011 + bike with the new frame and exhaust. it will hold its money better i believe ... 2011 gassers haven't really changed in value in the last (almost ) 2 years, still fetching round about £2650... there solid bikes and the quality has improved an awful lot in the last few years. if going for a 280 or a 300 check for tiny cracks in the welds up near the headstock ( i have 3 crack ). i say 280/ 300 because they tend to be ridden bye expert rider - more stress on the frame. expect normal clutch rattle, careful when starting because the idle gears chip so easy. there are some 2012s around for roughly the same money as 11s , again check for above issues. but i would avoid it if it has formula brakes fitted. dont get me started
  20. keep it if your only a begginer/clubman. great little bike. bulletproof engine and in my opinion most reliable bike out there ( others would agree too ). has plenty of power just keep it buzzing hope you have fun!
  21. yep your right, all of it has been done no stop and no hopping with carefull lines i just wanted to learn how to hop and show it in my video . when i started trials i thought id never be able to hop around but now i can so i am happy and wanted to show it in my video bigger stuf next that was only a short little mess about haha been on holiday for a while! :/ cheers 0007!
  22. umm no i am alright... i ride friends 125s quite often actually after trials and stuff. can ride them just as well. its no harder or easier. my 250 is fine. i ride every other day and on my old 125s they couldnt cope and just rattled to bits - seriously. a new fresh 125 is alright but wont be long until its down on power. i know 125s could do extreme stuff but whats the point in holding it to the stop just to do something a big bike could do in a little blip! its just going to knacker pistons and everything which i really cant be bothered any more to put up with , maybe i was unlucky ,but that why i moved to a 250. i ride like every day. piston kits are like 100£ and take time to fit etc... if i rode a 125 every day and hard at trials it would need loads of work to stop it sounding like a bag of spanners my old ones did anyway.... never had to do anything engine wise to my 250. if you want more power from a 125 you start put very high comp head inserts in a carbs which make it rev to the moon but this makes it even more likely to break!! i am fine on what im on. if i ride all the time then this even if its not a 125 then i am surely still gonna improve. that was only small stuff in the video. i hadnt ridden in a while. i know what you mean but i would rather stay on what im on. haha just saying
  23. its just pinking when its running out of fuel. all my bikes have done it... when its running out of fuel it gets leaner ( less fuel more air ) then runs hotter starts pinking. even full of fuel after a big rev or when hot mine pinks. pinking is when you open the throttle and it makes a mettalic clunking at the crack of throttle. hope you know what i mean . if its really bad give it a 1/4 turn out on the small screw on the carb ( there are two ) big one is idle. turning the small screw out ( anti clockwise ) will make it slightly richer. let me know how you get on.
 
×
  • Create New...