Cookiemonster

Bought a 2018 4RT recently & have a couple of questions I hope someone can help with after my first ride at the weekend firstly is the throttle with Montesa written on it a fast or slow action throttle? It does have a black body but seems a little fast secondly regarding the clutch it only bites when the lever is almost fully out, not a big problem but I’d prefer the bite point to be around half way I’ve had a 2T before & used the elf oil, changed to dimpled plates & also Haven (think that’s what they where) friction plates so I’ll be doing the same with the 4RT question is is it worth doing the Friction plates on the 4RT? Or just the dimpled plates? thanks

For the fuel mix it’s 80 ml for 5 litres of fuel from memory, strawberry putoline always worked for me

Here you go, was back in May 2016, good luck! Take pictures as you go to help with the rebuild You can get the carb out if you need to at a meet, without doing these steps, but here's the easiest way get the carb out and in if you're working in a garage. 1. Put the bike on a stand so the rear wheel is off the ground. 2. Remove the rear fender. 3. Turn off the gas. Disconnect the fuel hose at the pet cock. Remove the fuel tank (two screws in the front). Leave the fuel hose connected to the carb. 4. Remove the aluminum sub frame. You'll need to disconnect the coil from the aluminum sub frame. Watch how it's connected in the rubber holder so you can get it back that way. Be careful with the airfilter spring connectors as it's easy to break them. 5. Put a block under the rear wheel to support it cause you're going to remove the top shock bolt and don't want the wheel to hang on the brake hose. 6. Remove the air box. Disconnect the rubber boot at the air box and leave it connected to the carb. Makes it easier to put back together. 7. Unbolt the top shock bolt and pivot the shock back (REMEMBER to put a support block under the rear wheel so it's not pulling on the rear brake hose!!!) 8. Unscrew the carb throttle top and work it out. A flathead screw driver tapped on lightly with a hammer will loosen it. Careful not to bend the needle jet. 9. Loosen the hose clamp on the front of the carb on the rubber reed block. 10. Now you can work the carb loose. It should still have the fuel hose and rubber airbox hose connected to it. 11. Loosen the four screws on the bottom of the carb and separate the float bowl from the carb. Careful with the gasket. 12. There's two jets in there, the main jet and the pilot jet. main jet removed with a 6mm (?) wrench. Pilot is recessed in a tube and can be removed with a small flathead screw driver. Unless you absolutely need to, don't mess with taking the needle out of the carb throttle top. The TK's have a weird needle/ cable holder arrangement. Just clean it good with carb cleaner. 13. After you've got the jets and float out, clean it good with arrisol carb cleaner and blow out all of the orrifices with with compressed air. Make sure the holes in the jets are clear and not simply scaled over with varnish from the gas. Good reason to not use gas with alcohol in it. 14. Put it back together in reverse order. There is a vent overflow nipple the bottom of the carb. It causes a lot of muck in the space under the exhaust. If you run a small rubber tube from that nipple down behind and under the engine, it will keep the carb from venting onto the top of the engine and will keep things a lot cleaner. Clean the air filter while you've got it apart. Hot water and dish soap works great. Let it dry and oil it up lightly with motoroil. Squeeze out the excess. 15. It's a good idea to put on one of those small inline fuel filters while you've got the thing apart. Keeping crap out of the carb will help ensure you don't have to get back in there very often. I hope I've remembered everything. If not, you should be able to figure it out. Good luck.

Years ago a kind member wrote down the steps to tear down the bike & carb, how to clean it using carb cleaner & electrical wire rather than compressed air then how to reassemble everything, have a search under Scorpa & I’ll see if I can also find it takes a little time & once done leave fuel tap on for 10 minutes before kicking over in my experience with the Scorpa will need doing on a regular basis so you will become quite proficient at it good luck, great bikes once set up & running properly

Splash it all over social media Gazza73 & hopefully someone with a sense of honesty will recognise the $cum & you can tell GMP who they are

Thanks Stevec when you start looking there’s all sorts out there organic acid technology hybrids for example who comes up with this stuff?

What are people using? Any recommendations? thanks

hey bondy like your engine case covers where you get them? also the scorpa wheel rim decals? been looking out for both without luck thanks

no bondy

OK, what gearbox oil are you using? as mentioned Motul 4Tworks well others use ATF found an old picture of mine & the set up is as per your picture so the nut mat have been on the outside originally

And that’s what you need to change cant remember how but I’m sure I read about it on this site about 5 years ago when I first bought mine ill take a picture of mine over the weekend if it helps

Have you moved the nut on the clutch lever arm to the end? By that I mean undo the assembly as it is now & re-assemble it exactly the same with the exception of the nut being the last thing to put on i also use mogul 4t gear box oil Clutch works perfectly on my 07 Scorpa hope this helps

Sorry It’s the same oil for clutch & gearbox, drain from underneath but be careful as drain bolts made from toffee upgrade it with the one on trials & tribulation on similar thanks

Try this link Found it when I googled the question hope it helps

Best way to bleed clutch is via the slave cylinder using a syringe full of fluid connected to the nipple with a bit of tubing Takes minutes just need the right gear

Hi Anyone out there using a bike rack on the back of a Freelander 2? If so does it work well? Are there any issues with handlebars touching the rear window? Thanks

[look on Nigel Birketts site sure that there are pdf manuals you can download from there Sorry, new phone with predictive text. Post title = scorpa sy250 water pump impeller removal

As you say Raceline dimpled steel plates with Haven fibre plates plus Elf oil make the clutch as good as anything I've ridden

Hi Richard TBH not had chance to try it out yet, I've not even put fuel in it Took me ages to get someone to reproduce the decals in blue & then they did a poor job so I need to look at that again Might have a change in plans anyway as I'm looking at something else Thanks, Lee

My eternal thanks or the step by step guide Got round to doing the job today, took me a couple of hours but the bikes running cleanly Saved me some money & learnt a new skill Thanks again

Thanks ridgrunr Couldn't have got a better response, I'll let you know how I get on Lee

Need to give my carb a clean but not done one before Watched a few videos & read about it on this forum so I'm sure I can do it just after any tips & advice It's a 2007 model Thanks in advance

Had an 1999 315r & currently ride a 2007 SY both great bikes as always buy the best condition bike for your budget You won't go wrong with either bike as long as it's been looked after Spares shouldn't be a problem for either bike

finally got hold of a long ride tank for my 07 Scorpa (Pedro from T3moto in Toledo, Spain) & now need to change the decals to fit in with the rest of the bike looked for blue long ride stickers on line without any luck, does anyone out there know of any? alternatively I'm thinking about getting some made using the existing ones as a template again does anyone have any recommendations of who to use? didn't want to go down the paint it blue route but what are people experiances of painting plastic? thanks, Lee

long ride tank was delivered on Friday, Pedro from T3moto in Toledo, Spain supplied it just need to decide what to do about making it fit in with the rest of the bike now looked for blue long ride stickers on line without any luck so thinking about getting some made using the existing ones as a template didn't want to go down the paint it blue route but what are people experiances of painting plastic? any recomendations? thanks, Lee