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About dpyam

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  1. Surely the nose weight rating of the car is the downward force the car's towing 'setup' is designed to cope with. The car's metal won't care if the force is a trailer, a bike rack or a large person standing on it. I'm sure the car manufacturer allows a safety margin, but if this limit is exceeded, while the tow ball/arm will be fine, there is a risk of the relevant parts of the car it's attached to failing/snapping, leading to your bike bouncing down the road. Note also that with a bike rack, the force is not always vertically down. The combination of tow bar and bike rack act as a lever on the towing mount, increasing the forces involved when you go over a pot hole. Please note I'm all for a bike rack setup. I once had a DC bike rack (an excellent piece of kit) bolted to the back of an old Land Rover (directly to the ladder chassis via a genuine Land Rover mounting plate) and it felt like you could have had 1/2 ton hanging off it. But modern cars are designed with every component being as light weight (read 'thin') as possible, so I'd not want to exceed what weight the car's manual says it's designed for. It just gives anyone else's insurance company an excuse not to pay out.
  2. dpyam

    ty175 mix

    You will also need to richen the mixture a little if moving to premix, as some of the volume of liquid in the jets is now oil, whereas before it was pure fuel. It’s more of an issue on bikes revved hard than trials bikes, but worth bearing in mind if the bike feels a bit flat after the conversion.
  3. My TY175 is road legal and I just added it to the Carole Nash policy for my road bike - job done. I've never had to make a claim so can't comment on that side of things. Hopefully someone else can help if your bike isn't road registered.
  4. Yew wood think there’s no chance it woodwork but it mitre just.
  5. When he got to the top without a dab he said “nailed it”.
  6. Maybe he was pine-ing for a rigid rear end.
  7. dpyam

    1978 TY175 overhaul

    That's looks like a good unmolested bike that should respond well to some TLC, and yes, with the optional lighting kit - mine also has these lights and I have a UK "MOT" so I can ride day and night on it ?, not that I go far on the roads. Does yours have a horn? Mine didn't and I found out the hard way the electrics are unregulated AC (nominally 6 volt) so it needs a special AC horn. And the bulbs need to be the correct wattage. Also if you over-rev it the bulbs blow as there is no voltage regulator (or rectifier)....
  8. I use Aspen fuel in my TY for running and storage - it has none of that nasty water absorbing ethanol in it. It’s expensive but the best things generally are.
  9. dpyam


    On mine even with the correct puller it was difficult - I wouldn't even attempt it without one. The TY type pullers aren't expensive in the great scheme of things, like less than a tenner. And then cobble something together to hold the flywheel. 2 foot of Dexion angle iron, a TY front brake arm and a couple of long bolts work for me, but I'm sure there are more elegant solutions! There is a Haynes manual for the TY which is worth having.
  10. Just joining this thread. I had a DC bike rack, and when connected to my LandRover (with tow bar bolted straight to the chassis) it was a great - an agricultural strength set up. However I would say a swan neck tow bar (with or without additional contraptions) is totally unsuited to a DC bike rack - to the point of being highly dangerous. A swan neck might be able to cope with a bicycle rack, but certainly not a trials bike, where the huge leverage on the swan neck/car mounting (forces way beyond what it was designed for) means something will break in no time, meaning the trials bike will soon be bouncing down the road. :-(
  11. dpyam

    Spark Plug Question

    I agree. It makes perfect sense to me too. People who don’t get it still think adding extra oil to the tank is a good idea, and I try to talk them out of it. If i feel i want to add extra oil i take the plug out and put a few drops in the plug hole and leave it a while to work its way down.
  12. As is so often the case, it's us victims of vehicle theft who end up paying the price, not just in increased premiums. You then have to volunteer all relevant information (even information that possibly MAY be relevant) to all your insurers (car and bike) otherwise you are then considered to have withheld information, and all of a sudden YOU'RE the guilty party :-( I've had two bikes stolen so I know the simmering anger it generates. I now do everything I can to make stealing my things as hard as I can for these scumbags. A useful tip for vulnerable garages/sheds with power is a hidden baby monitor :-) And technology is bringing some low price tracker devices into the market which are tempting.
  13. It's key to get the re-borer to bore to the piston type being used - cast metal piston or whatever type, as different rates of piston heat expansion for the new piston being used have to be taken into account by the re-borer, with regards to +/- a thou or two of the re-bore.
  14. Good news - it's running again :-) I thought it must be the condenser or ignition coil so changed those but still no joy. Much head scratching. So I went back to basics, checking everything. I used my old 1970's Avo meter this time, rather than my digital multimeter (young people may need to google Model 40 Mark 2 Avo meter at this stage!) and everything checked out except the resistance across the points was a bit odd and inconsistent, which wasn't really visible with the digital meter. So I gave the points a clean and hey presto, ring, ting, ting :-) :-) Thanks for all the advice everyone - it made me re-think my strategy - and Feetupfun I will print off your list of common issues and put it inside my Haynes manual for next time.
  15. Sorry I should have worded that better - the manuals aren't clear on this - do the source coils+anything else have to come off? It's in the standard position and I'm happy to solder.
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