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dpyam

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About dpyam

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    Herts
  1. Pikeyboy

    On mine even with the correct puller it was difficult - I wouldn't even attempt it without one. The TY type pullers aren't expensive in the great scheme of things, like less than a tenner. And then cobble something together to hold the flywheel. 2 foot of Dexion angle iron, a TY front brake arm and a couple of long bolts work for me, but I'm sure there are more elegant solutions! There is a Haynes manual for the TY which is worth having.
  2. Just joining this thread. I had a DC bike rack, and when connected to my LandRover (with tow bar bolted straight to the chassis) it was a great - an agricultural strength set up. However I would say a swan neck tow bar (with or without additional contraptions) is totally unsuited to a DC bike rack - to the point of being highly dangerous. A swan neck might be able to cope with a bicycle rack, but certainly not a trials bike, where the huge leverage on the swan neck/car mounting (forces way beyond what it was designed for) means something will break in no time, meaning the trials bike will soon be bouncing down the road. :-(
  3. Spark Plug Question

    I agree. It makes perfect sense to me too. People who don’t get it still think adding extra oil to the tank is a good idea, and I try to talk them out of it. If i feel i want to add extra oil i take the plug out and put a few drops in the plug hole and leave it a while to work its way down.
  4. As is so often the case, it's us victims of vehicle theft who end up paying the price, not just in increased premiums. You then have to volunteer all relevant information (even information that possibly MAY be relevant) to all your insurers (car and bike) otherwise you are then considered to have withheld information, and all of a sudden YOU'RE the guilty party :-( I've had two bikes stolen so I know the simmering anger it generates. I now do everything I can to make stealing my things as hard as I can for these scumbags. A useful tip for vulnerable garages/sheds with power is a hidden baby monitor :-) And technology is bringing some low price tracker devices into the market which are tempting.
  5. Ty175 Oversize Piston + 2Mm

    It's key to get the re-borer to bore to the piston type being used - cast metal piston or whatever type, as different rates of piston heat expansion for the new piston being used have to be taken into account by the re-borer, with regards to +/- a thou or two of the re-bore.
  6. A Spark, A Spark, My Kingdom For A Spark...

    Good news - it's running again :-) I thought it must be the condenser or ignition coil so changed those but still no joy. Much head scratching. So I went back to basics, checking everything. I used my old 1970's Avo meter this time, rather than my digital multimeter (young people may need to google Model 40 Mark 2 Avo meter at this stage!) and everything checked out except the resistance across the points was a bit odd and inconsistent, which wasn't really visible with the digital meter. So I gave the points a clean and hey presto, ring, ting, ting :-) :-) Thanks for all the advice everyone - it made me re-think my strategy - and Feetupfun I will print off your list of common issues and put it inside my Haynes manual for next time.
  7. A Spark, A Spark, My Kingdom For A Spark...

    Sorry I should have worded that better - the manuals aren't clear on this - do the source coils+anything else have to come off? It's in the standard position and I'm happy to solder.
  8. A Spark, A Spark, My Kingdom For A Spark...

    Might be best if I replace both the condensor and the coil as they're unknowns. What needs to come off to replace the condensor?
  9. My 1978 TY175 was last started several weeks ago and ran like a dream. Now it won't start - there's no sign of a spark at all. I'm no electrical expert but so far: I'm seeing about 3.5 volts AC on the black/white wire to the Low Tension side of the ignition coil. For this I'm turning the engine over with a drill using the 19mm nut that holds the flywheel/magnets on, with the plug out so that I'm not fighting the compression. I'm using a digital volt/ohm meter. So I'm assuming the source coil etc side of things is okay? The ignition "source" ohms are as per the book. I've tried my spare ignition coil (can't remember where I got it, so it could be duff) and two spark plugs. Both ignition coils show several thousand ohms on one side but open circuit on the other, which seems a bit odd. Could both be duff? I've taken all the connectors apart and reconnnected them, and bypassed the kill switch. One other thing that may be a clue (or unrelated!!), the last time I tried the headlight it was really dim, even though the bike ran fine. The electrics appear to be the standard (super-simple) set up so I'm confused I can't work out what's wrong - how hard can it be !!?? :-)
  10. Ty Gearing

    At 60mph you'll be running the engine at pretty much full power regardless of revs, and no engine is going to last long used in that way. I would recommend a different tool for the job - a 360? I've always fancied a DT400 myself.
  11. Show Some Support!

    I remember it was the eu that forced road bike exhausts to be ridiculously quiet, when the simple answer was to enforce the existing UK noise law.
  12. Bike On The Back Of My Car...

    If the worst happens and your (or someone elses) insurance company sees a potential excuse not to pay out you can bet they'll be taking an interest in weights.
  13. Road Sprockets For A Ty 125

    So it may well be there's nothing wrong with your bike other than the front sprocket is way too big. A change of one tooth at the front is usually quite noticeable so you will be see a huge difference with a 13T - with chain tension too. For reference, I can pull away happily in 3rd and 1st and 2nd are a bit pointless on the road. I bet if I had a 17T front then 5th and 6th would become pointless - you can't win them all........ :-)
  14. Road Sprockets For A Ty 125

    Another thought - I don't know what the 125 is geared like but my 175 is basically 1,2,3 and 4 are "crawler" gears for off-road, with a jump to 5 and 6 for road use (max cruising around 40mph). Maybe someone thought that with a 17T front you would end up with 4 "road" gears, and 5 and 6 are only usable down steep hills?
  15. Road Sprockets For A Ty 125

    If it has still got all the "road" bits fitted it sounds like a rarity to treasure - enjoy ownership! My TY175 is road legal but realistically a TY is designed for slow, low-revving off-road riding, but with some lights fitted, allows use on-road. I wouldn't use my TY for commuting or anything - it would kill it - a trail bike (like a Yam DT) would be a better bet for that - a good excuse to own 2 bikes! The steep fork angle on a TY, plus off-road tyres, makes it unstable over 40 compared to a road or trail bike. There are road legal classic "enduro" bikes around as well (e.g. Yam IT175) but again they're very off-road focussed. You don't say what the history of the bike is but before trying more sprocket variations make sure the bike is running as its best: new spark plug check timing check carb jets and settings are set to standard (if the rest of the bike is) clean the air filter check exhaust is not blocked brakes not binding tyre pressures etc Having said that, a 17 front sounds very over-geared.
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