dan williams

Sorry late to the party on this but here is the flywheel holder I cobbled together for use on Betas. Actually I've made a few since they keep getting borrowed then disappear. Works like a charm. Piece of bar stock. One cut, three holes. Can even make a handle on the far end. Vitally important to not screw in the bolts on the flywheel deeper than the flywheel or you destroy the stator. Short bolts or washers/nuts as shims is a good idea.

I’d be happy to have it weight the same as my Beta with a larger battery too. I just had a thought. Would be interesting if someone like Honda bought Jordi out and started cranking these out. They are surprisingly quiet on the electric bike front. I guess there’s that e-assist thing. Ewwww. The Beta decides where I’m going on its own enough already.

I suspect they will not be able to keep up with demand once the bike is finalized.

10 time US champion Geoff Aaron is 6’4” and he has no problem hoping around. Then again Geoff is all muscle so....

No that requires a twin scroll turbo.?

Carbon reeds can help that.

Welcome back.

A few squeezes of the hose going to the head works just as well. Judging by how hard it is to access anything inboard of the CDI unit on the new bike it seems pointless.

Sure doesn’t feel like it. For years I’ve had people tell me Betas had carbon fiber reeds. The ones I put under the microscope were obviously fiberglass painted black. You can tell because the exposed fibers are clear. I’ll put in carbon reeds and have a look when I pull the stock ones out.

The Ossa owners around here loved their bikes but fear of parts availability is the reason for the depression of price. If you buy it and they go back into production you should head out to a casino as you’re a lucky guy. Otherwise you may find yourself scratching for parts if you break something Ossa specific. I suppose the upside is most things we break are third party non-brand specific items but it’s a risk.

The model was V351C and they stopped selling them but I’m hoping they will start again because it really makes a huge difference in the power delivery off the bottom. Soooo good! It was the whole cage plus reeds.

Why add a “bleed screw” to the top of the head? There has to be a better explanation than bleed screw. There’s already one on the pump at the bottom of the system.

It’s almost impossible to determine if a coil is good from a dc ohm meter reading. Ignition coils rarely go bad unless they open up. What is common with older Betas is failure of the trigger coil on the ignition stator. There are places that can test and rewind defective stators but they’re in England.

Woohoo good job finding it.

Paioli

In the, “Are Beta getting ready for fuel injection?” category, I notice there’s now a bolt on top of the head that doesn’t do anything. Head temperature? Knock sensor? Hmmmm.

My wife walked out of the garage today and said, “Did you buy a new bike?” She’s been walking between the new and old bike for a week. The cat’s out of the bag.

Hmmm just looked through the parts diagram and everything in the gearbox has the same part number. Still possible something was improved and given the same number.

I'm still a bit weirded out by the .6 mm throw. Something is still not making sense. addendum: Looking back through this thread it looks like ~1.2mm is nominal travel of clutch actuation.

Agreed ,if the lever is not spongy contamination is most likely culprit.

Heffergm is correct. If your disk is contaminated then it will contaminate every pad you put in. The disk must be absolutely clean of oils. I've cleaned contaminated pads by heating out of the caliper with a propane torch. The front calipers on Betas seem to be rather mellow compared to TRS and Vertigo units. Could just be the way they are set up. It doesn't take much of an air bubble to soften hydraulics and other things like hose flex will have a similar effect. Ron Commo used to have custom thin stainless steel brake lines made for his Betas to sharpen up his brakes

Carbon fiber reeds, low compression head and many hours tweaking jetting. And VP C12 fuel.

Maybe over to extreme enduro.

It’s kind of soft but then it’s not broken in and my ‘13 has five years of tuning to within a gnat’s ass of perfect.

Or sampling destroying my sense of smell? It’s mostly ethanol and water. Actually took a few outings to really reduce the stink but it is noticeably better. Something various detergents didn’t do. It’s a real pain to get lab grade ethanol and the denatured stuff usually has acetone and other mystery stuff that can’t be good for styrofoam.