dan williams

The point of the exercise is to use all the controls. Front brake makes the bike want to stand up. Back brake wants to pull the bike down. Practice working clutch against back brake for smoothness. Work clutch against front brake for recovering balance. Same for thottle. I understand the idle tends to run high on a 4rt but you want to get used to working all the controls against each other so I'd slow the idle for practice. There is no right or wrong technique. You are trying to build a set of conditioned responses so the more varied techniques you practice the better you'll handle the unexpected.

Well it's what most of us would do except bilks 'cause he's a showoff.

You can try the clutch fix pinned at the top of the Beta forum. On a bike that old you may also have some swelling of the fiber plates and the steel plates can be polished to cause a hydraulic lock. You may also have notched the basket/hub. Basically the best way to know is a disassemble and look.

Type the model into google images and try to match. That's what we'd do.

just to be sure we are talking a Mikuni VM26-208? Parts are readily available from any online carb shop but it's rare to damage a float valve especially on a trials bike. Much more likely to have a fleck of dirt on the seat. I think cleaning and setup should be all that's required. Clean with compressed air. NO WIRES! I've seen it noted by some but i'd run nothing through a jet or valve but air.

Ah, the brass tube on the bottom of the float bowl is the overflow. Disassemble and clean the float valve. Make sure there are no holes in the floats. Set the two tabs as per BillyT instruction. Make sure floats aren't rubbing on bowl gasket and trim gasket if so. Reassemble and report results back here. All the other mods are to deal with fuel piddling out the vent tubes on the side of the carb.

The two tubes that come our the side of the carb are vent tubes for the float bowl. Beta made the tubes so long they end beneath the float bowl so if fuel gets splashed up into the tube it acts like a siphon. Take a pair of wire cutters and nip a hole in the tube just below the bend but above the float bowl. That stops the siphon. There are other more complex fixes but they work about the same and are more work.

I'm not sure about the '08 but all the 4t I've looked into are 3mm. The part of the clutch fix that helps the cold stick is the removal of excess glue between the "cork" friction pads. I just note that because sometime people say they've done the "clutch fix" and later they admit they only did part of it.

I've found the 10 tooth to be sufficient. The bikes come geared a bit high for road speed in places where they may need to use road segments between sections. 9 tooth is a pretty big step and will wear your chain faster.

Nanny state? In Massachusetts you have to register your bike to ride on your own land. They are sending flocks of environmental police to sanctioned events on private tracks to ticket people. Nice rescue of a pretty bike though.

Might not be a problem if the Mecatechno electric uses the same frame.

Clutch fix pinned to Beta forum. May work for you as it is really a generic issue for any bike with poorly finished plates.

You can certainly tell it has a clutch from the windup for the big hit. Looks real capable. Now comes down to how much and what battery life looks like.

Copy the link and paste it into Google Translate.

https://www.facebook.com/MecatecnoUK/videos/1517944768268728/

http://www.trial-club.com/webzine-trial/actualites/2017/mecatecno-lourdes/

I wonder if they just sopped up the leftover stock of Ossa parts to use as a development platform. Kind of a serendipitous opportunity as it saves a lot of development time.

Hmmm the competition has finally shown itself. http://www.trial-club.com/webzine-trial/actualites/2017/mecatecno-lourdes/ Interesting. Looks like an Ossa swingarm but where is the shock? I think I see one but there's not much space. Frame looks almost like a trials bicycle.

That's excellent. I've always wanted to see something like this with a bike set up with telemetry to show control positions.

...and on that bright note...

Ok that ain't gonna work. Airbox gets in the way.

The throw of the lever shouldn't be affected though the necessary braking force will increase. Make sure your lever adjust allows the master cylinder to uncover the reservoir port at rest so the system pressure can normalize. Typically this causes the brakes to overheat and grab but if the mud is cool it could have the opposite effect. It's also possible for mud to pack in the pads so they get pushed out screwing up the self adjust nature of the brakes. I've wondered if this was going to an issue with the new FIM "solid" rotors. During the event you can drag your brakes on the loop and get some back after a water crossing.

I would buy it without hesitation. Any teething problems will have been worked out, setup would be proper and John Lampkin is the importer for Beta. It will be snapped up in short order.

Thanks CASCAO. Learn something new every day. http://www.ssina.com/corrosion/galvanic.html

Manuals for air cooled bikes usually recommended 32:1 but that was in large part due to the variability in oil and fuel quality and a margin of safety built into the recommendation. If you have access to a good quality synthetic oil 50:1 will work fine. I ran Bel-Ray MC-1 for decades at 50:1 in everything from Maicos to Bultacos to Can-Ams (Armstrong) with never an oil related failure. Now having said that I assume you are riding the mighty Fantic like a trials bike and not flogging it like it was a short legged MX bike. I've seen that done and it causes "unusual" wear in a trials engine.