dan williams

Seems to be much better.

Though it’s still worth a look into the resevior so no effort wasted. Nothing looks out of place.

No sorry, that’s the resevior. I meant the little round rubber bit that covers the end of the master cylinder where the lever pushes against the piston.

Yes it’s not a bolt on option. The primary gear is machined into the weight and it is sold as a set with the gear on the clutch basket.

Welcome to the sport Willy. Understand it takes a bit to learn the techniques and it can be frustrating on the beginning part of the learning curve but after a bit you’ll start to get the hang of it. Then it becomes fun. Then addictive. You’ll start seeing trials sections off the side of the road, in friend’s back yards wherever you go. That’s when you know you’re hooked.

Jolly old England is starting to look like New England. Time to get out the Top Gear Snow combine/gritter.

That's "Bold new graphics" to you sir.

It is possible to damage the return spring in the master cylinder. A crash onto the lever will do it. The caliper won't return the master cylinder piston all the way by themselves so it's left to the spring in the master cylinder to chase the piston to the end of its stroke. If that spring is damaged the master cylinder can, for lack of a better term, "pack It in" with repeated actuations. If there is any fluid seepage anywhere in the system it just gets mushy feeling. Remove the rubber cover from your master cylinder and hold the lever in for a bit. You want to see if the lever slowly squishes in over time which tells you the system is losing fluid somewhere. After a few minutes let the lever go and see if the piston returns all the way to stop on the circlip that holds the whole thing together. It should return without hesitation. If it doesn't you'll need to rebuild the master cylinder which Is fairly easy but bleeding is time consuming and requires patience. Also eyeball the front brake rotor. Spin the wheel with it off the ground and look for deviation sighted from the caliper body. If it wobbles you're pretty much stuck getting a new rotor. Getting one of these thin little stainless steel rotors to be flat again is almost impossible. It's possible the rotor is flat but something got into the floating mounts that is forcing it to be crooked but I've never seen this. Just mentioning it to be thorough.

OK so a few things I've seen on the 2018 make me fairly certain we'll be seeing significant changes to the 2019. I've seen what appears to be much larger electrical capacity on the stator with more coils and a larger regulator/rectifier. An additional vent (pressure tube?) on the fuel filler. A security screw on the intake manifold. Pushing of electrics (CDI, ignition coil, regulator) away from the center of the frame towards outer parts of the bike. So let's speculate, Fuel injection, all the cool kids are doing it. A fuel pump, injection body and ECU need space and power to work. A battery is necessary to make it work first kick. Electric start? Hey if we throw a Li-ion battery in for the fuel injection why not make it a bit bigger and start a revolution? Starter motors are a lot smaller and lighter than they used to be. Diaphragm clutch, They don't work better than a properly setup spring clutch but they are cheaper to manufacture and they are physically thinner than coil springs. I would like to see someone build a clutch with a wave spring just because nobody's tried it yet. ...and on the wish list, A rear brake that has a bleeder on top of the master cylinder. Now.......................Discuss!

A couple of questions, Does the lever firm up after a few pumps? Does your master cylinder piston return all the way to the stop when the lever is let out? Is the lever feel correct at the start of the ride? This almost sounds like you have a warped or bent rotor pushing the pads back slightly. A slightly misaligned caliper might also cause this. The throw of the pistons in the caliper is really short and rely on the elasticity of the O-rings around the pistons to pull them back. Any deflection by the rotor will push them back further than normal causing the symptoms you describe.

Some guys use the strap over the seat method. Some just grab the muffler. There are times I could’ve used a strap on the back. Whatever works for you is fine. Odds are if you fit the strap you’ll have a couple riders at each event commenting on what a great idea it is and wondering why they didn’t think of it.?

Yeah I start it too.

I haven’t had an issue either though I try not to spray it full pressure at bearings or gaskets. I have had it peel stickers off.

Too bad I already paid for "A new competitive machine" at considerably the same price as other current machines. And I didn't even get Sammy Miller foot rests. Thanks for posting this though. I love to see these small unknown manufacturers. Somebody's hopes and dreams rested on that bike. And probably their savings too.

Just as an aside the stock reed cage is the same as an early 2000s KTM 65SX. I'm tempted to get a rubber manifold from the KTM to see if it fits.

S3 makes a low compression head that helps a lot on the 300. You lose none of the grunt. The top can still be scary just not as much and the kicking is easier. Also makes the bike less finicky about octane rating.

A "Factory" just buys you a few ounces of weight saving and a bit more top end power. So with the 125 you'll have a weak low end and a peaky top without much in between. The 125s are aimed at teenagers because they have to ride 125s. Not really what you need as an old guy new to the sport. A 200 is a nice compromise in torque at low speed without the arm ripping pull of a larger engine. Executive summary: get the 200

Well if you put the manifold in any other orientation the carb won’t fit.

Yeah T-25 security bit is needed to take the tower off a Keihin PWK28 so I had one. I take “no user servicable parts” as a challenge. Still this is beyond the usual for a trials bike. Not as bad as my wife’s CRF150f plugging the mixture adjust screw. But a harbinger of what’s to come.

Forgot to note this is a 2018 EVO 300.

Swapped out the reeds for carbon fiber and found one screw on the manifold was a T25 security screw. Wasn’t expecting that. Also noted was what seems like thread locking compound on idle adjust screw. Explains why it snapped off first time I tried to adjust it. Carb also looks different but not sure. Top of slide housing seems different and bottom of carb has serial number.

I think the “Factory” models have the braktec masters. The standard 2018 looks the same as my 2013. But yes it should fit. correction: I worked on my 2018 yesterday. It was 70F here in February so... Anyway I looked at the rear master cylinder and it is a Braketech so apologies for the above mis-information.

Caby’s gotta be furious.

What could possibly go wrong?

My ‘13 300 has done this since I got it new. Betas have always shifted notchy but this jumping out of second is something that was never an issue on the other Betas I’ve had and I’ve had quite a few. I learned to be very dilligent in making sure the shift into second felt like all the bits are moved into place but if I take a half hearted stab at the shifter going from neutral or first into second it often pops out and hilarity ensues. Well for my friends watching anyway. I also have a new ‘18 that I’m prepping for the season. I’ve had it out a few times to test and break it in and the shifting is like buttah! Just a tap and it snicks into gear. I’ve looked over the parts manuals for both years and none of the parts numbers are different so I assume Beta just beefed up some parts but I don’t know which without disassembling both bikes. The rumor I’ve heard is they thickened the shift forks. I don’t know for certain though. One avenue I was considering was a heavier spring on the cam that indexes the gearbox but Beta doesn’t use a standard plunger so that wasn’t going to be easy. I think you’re just going to have to work around it. The third to second shift does work though it’s a pain to have to use.